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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Unread 11-08-2019, 10:17 AM   #31
Not Yet Wild
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western NC
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Default Re: Hunting Buggy Build. Help appreciated!!!

In regards to the F&R switch, I spoke with Plum Quick motors when i first started ordering parts for this build. They advised me that the Stock EZGO F&R switch WAS adequate for use with the 600 amp controller. They said that a stock Yamaha or clubcar F&R switch would definitely need to be changed, but not on the EZGO.. He assured me that he has ran stock EZGO F&R switches on much higher amperage systems than mine, without issue. That's the only reason i didn't order a HD F&R switch to start with..

Where can i buy a Alltrax cord for my computer to pull info up on my controller? I thought that after paying $700 for a controller it would come with a $2 cord, but I was wrong again.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 11:20 AM   #32
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
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Default Re: Hunting Buggy Build. Help appreciated!!!

Trust but verify applies to PQ also.

I've never heard of the stock EZGO F/R switch assembly being anything more than marginal, but a brand new one that is perfectly aligned might be capable of passing 600A without overheating. However, I have some serious doubts if the same is true for one that has been in service for 17 years.

The mechanical F/R switch is a weak point in the EZGO series drive design. It takes a bit of effort to shift into F or R and if the cam isn't rotated fully into the mechanical stops, the contacts are not fully engaged (overlapped) so the current density is abnormally higher on the surface area of the contacts that aren't fully engaged. Conversely, some cart owners loosen the central nut so the F/R level moves easier, which lessens the force coupling the contacts and if any of the four sets of contacts isn't perfectly flat, arcing occurs.


The use of solenoids (reversing contactor) eliminate the above mechanical issues.

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The cable needed is a USB-A to USB-B cable, commonly referred to as a USB printer cable. Available wherever computer accessories are sold. Walmart, Amazon, Etc.
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Unread 11-08-2019, 08:51 PM   #33
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western NC
Posts: 25
Default Re: Hunting Buggy Build. Help appreciated!!!

Johnnieb your awesome. I’m actually In Walmart as I’m typing this. Now I can pick up what I need while I’m here. I will try to figure out everything I need to get away from the F&R switch.

Another question. I have noticed that although I can’t get my cart to cut out again, I have noticed that the Power delivery is now completely different from what it was when I first completed the build. Originally it seemed to have 95% of its torque in the first 1/2” of throttle. Now it seems that although it has about the same total power as before, it now is much smoother and requires about half throttle before it gets all the torque. My question is, is there any other when this cart shut down, it reset it’s programming to some sort of factory default??? This would be the only explanation for what I have going on!!!
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Unread 11-08-2019, 09:51 PM   #34
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Default Re: Hunting Buggy Build. Help appreciated!!!

I've worked with electrical and electronic devises for over 60 years and I'm a firm believer in the Resistentialism theory, or the seemingly spiteful behavior manifested by inanimate objects. I.E., Toast always lands butter side down, or whatever can go wrong, will go wrong. So I wouldn't be the least surprised if your SR controller was acting out.

However, there is an in-line connector between the pedal box and the cart's wiring harness that is vulnerable to moisture, as are the components in the pedal box itself.

At the end of the gray cable coming out of the pedal box is a 4-pin in-line connector (Plug and Jack) and the B+ going to the pedal switch cross-talks with the ITS voltage on the black and white causing all sorts of strange behavior.

The in-line connector was added to make assembly easier at the factory and once the cart has been assembled, it serves no further purpose. Cut off the connector and connect the individual wires with butt splices or solder joints and waterproof with marine grade (adhesive lined) shrink tubing.

The ITS sensor inside the pedal box is also moisture sensitive. Or at least many of them are by the time they are 17 years old. They are filled with a potting compound to make them water resistant, but the compound dries out with and and hairline cracks form in the shrunken material, so moisture can get inside to the PCB and electronics inside the sensor.

If getting rid of the in-line connector doesn't domesticate the cart, replace the ITS sensor. The $25 ones work as well as the $80 ones.
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