89 EZGO 19 Spline Coupler Stripped. Help?

krjohnson76

I removed the motor, as I was hearing a grinding sound, and have found that the motor splines sp? (female) is stripped, as well as the shaft (male) coming from the differential. How do I remove this from the motor? Any help is appreciated, and I can post pics if necessary.

Thanks in advance....

BGW

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dcannow

You have a lot of hurt going on there. Run a search for motr/rear end assembly on forum and see if some diagrams come up for you. A repair manual would be best. If you have basic mech. skills you can do this job. Just patience, etc. Can be pricey for Diff. shaft/gear and who knows until you get the motor apart. keep us posted.

scottyb

...... And the rear end apart .....I think it is time to sell one and find another unless You have prior mechanical skills

Franz Weaver

to remove the splined coupling you would have to cut a groove around the top of the exposed spine so you could fit a bearing puller on it ( I just did it two hours ago) . I can send you a picture of the groove and the puller I used if you send me an email address I can send an attachment to. Also I now need to buy the splined fitting myself and woundering if you know where to get them?

Best Regards,

Franz Weaver

Franz Weaver

you can replace the splined shaft coming from the diff, two are offered on many of the on line parts sites, you just have to get the wound gearing teeth count right

Best Regards,

Franz Weaver

e-z-go1988

ncseadad

not sure if you are still here...if so...please send me a picture of how to cut the coupler to use a puller on it...thanks bill ncseadad@yahoo.com

sonnysmith

You can weld a nut on the top of the coupler. then just run a bolt down till it pushes the coupler off.

Timscarts

If I were you I would replace the entire axle, Ezgo axle are plentiful and cheap. Carts usually rust out before the axle goes bad around here.

Onin24Eagle

Just had the same problem. If you know someone with a TIG welder it is easy to remove the coupler. Weld a large nut onto the end and then thread the bolt into the nut. Works just like bearing or clutch puller. If it's a bit tough to start you can take the TIG and put a bead around the bottom end of the coupler. This will heat the coupler up enough to expand the bore and it should pull right off. I don't know if I'd try this with a wire feed or stick welder as the splatter might get into areas you don't want it to. TIG is clean and localized heat (and generates more heat than other welders) so it works perfectly.