OOPS! Solenoid?

Warhammer444

OK so I got this old 77 Electric EZGO and I charge the batteries full charge and take it for a whirl. Uphill is 2 mph max and the batteries seem to drain quickly, I pull it into the garage and pull off the seats finding several very heated cables.

The thing is old the contacts are corroded and greasy, some are even burnt and/or loose.

I took all day today and pulled every contact then either cleaned it or replaced it. Used dieelctric grease on all of them and new washers and nuts.

So while I am doing this I get the batteries back to full charge and I am excited to see what difference in power and longevity we may see from this all day event.

I put in reverse, get the normal buzzing signaling it is in reverse, same as I got before, but actually the buzzing is much louder and cleare. A good sign I surmise as we are gettting the additional power so desperately needed from the contact cleaning we did.

I hit the gas pedal and get nothing! I throw it into forward and the same thing, nothing! Can't locate my volt meter (Likely one of the kids!) or I wouldn't be asking this.

But what is the most likely cause? I have checked, rechecked, checked again and then checked again all contacts for tightness and correct wiring from wiring charts provided here.

I am getting a loud solid click from the Solenoid when I hit the gas pedal. Is the Solenoid likely gone bad? Can I jump the Soleniod like I do on a for when it has gone bad to confirm that is the problem or could this cause an bad things to happen? I do it on a Ford to get the starter to kick over and get the engine to start. But I am not entirely comfortable yet with 100% electrical powered engines. So figure waiting and asking is the best thing to do before trying it.

The Solenoid looks like a typical remote Ford Soleniod with the two large gauge contacts and then the two smaller ones labeled "S" and "I". From my basic understanding of Solenoids, they can't really be different, but again - Thought waiting and asking before changing it out with one of the Ford ones I have in the shed would be the best course of action.

Any other thoughts or suggestions off the top of anyones head? I know find the volt meter. I am going to do that now and check back in a little bit to see what kind of responses come.

BGW

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Warhammer444

Still no volt meter

So Solenoid must be 36 volt. OK fair enough, still wondering if I can jump it to confirm that it is the problem like I can with a remote Ford Soleniod that looks the same.

rusty1

yes you can jump it as long as the cart is up on stands i have never seen a solenoid bad that has a good thunk when it is engaged i am betting there is a wire somewere that is not making a good connection or a wire pulled off a microswitch ot the key switch if you could load a picture a bunch of eyes are better than 2

mikesmotortoys

How do yoiu know the batteries are taking a "full charge"?????

If they discharge quickly, then that means they aren't yaking a charge and / or are in need of replacement.

Get a voltmeter ASAP

scottyb

Unlike the Ford this is a continuos duty solenoid. Make certain you get a 36v GC solenoid if you replace it. 77 Ezgo has it got the old wiper board speed control? You can't get far without a voltmeter, here.

Warhammer444

OK,

looking through the wiring diagram, there are some missing components. Can someone enlighten me? I am using this diagram for late 70's (77) wiring.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

It shows a cable going from the f/r witch to one side of the solenoid and no cable connected to the other side. Where does the cable that does connect to the other side of the solenoid go? I have it going to the accelerator switch assembly contact #1.

In fact I have it connected like this, while very similiar there are differences in this wiring diagram which keep me scratching my head.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-diagrams.html

I have everything else wired as in diagram one but the solenoid wired as in diagram 2, With the exception of the positive cable which is coming from the F/R switch as shown in diagram 1Hopefully this is correct. Can anyone confirm.

Heading down to the parts store to buy a cheapo voltmeter, until I can find my Fluke, which should answer most my questions. Would like to know the proper wiring however.

Warhammer444

Yes to the wiper board!

Warhammer444

I would post a picture but my wife left me this week and took the camera!!!!

mikesmotortoys

HUH???? She took the camera but left you the cart

Warhammer444

LOL!

Well, shes coming back, just went to DC for the week for some training.