i just took apart my first microswitch

verbositator · 11-23-2007, 01:23 AM

the sucker wasn't switching and i had nothing better to do. the whith band around the bottom of the switch is a glue layer. for this switch i used heat- a little flame - your basic coleman can with small torch- pointed parallel to the seam and about 1/2 inch off of it- until the switch feel- warm to hot there but no melted plastic- the glue will brown just a little- it doesn't melt under heat, it powders, then run a heated straight blade screw driver up & down the white groove- be gentle- and scrape out the white stuff- any way, this works, but i am going to try an easier idea tomorrow- i am going to set the switch in alcohol- alcohol dissolves most glues- and wait awhile. with luck the switch will just fall apart-
LOOK OUT FOR THE METAL PINS IN THE SIDE! the large one is the hinge for your roller wheel- pushes out easywith switch warmed up to hot bathwater temp.
BUT THERE ARE TWO TINY ONES. THese are the toughies. i tried pushing them in while whole switch was hot, it worked on one side. they insert into a plastic block. tomorrow i am going to drill around them with my smallest bit and go clear thru the switch box until i make enough of a void at the end of the metal pins to push each one in about 1/16- 1/8 of an inch. if you don't push in the pins they will break the box, wheich i can see will be repairable but it is another obstacle- remember, when it comes to glue, always pick epoxy for hard applications, and you can quadruple yout bond strength by cleaning with alcohol before adhering. and don't believe the crap about epoxy being full strength as soon as itsets up. it takes ALL epoxies one full day to get to 50% bond strength- two weeks for full

11-23-2007, 01:23 AM	#1
verbositator Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 4	i just took apart my first microswitch the sucker wasn't switching and i had nothing better to do. the whith band around the bottom of the switch is a glue layer. for this switch i used heat- a little flame - your basic coleman can with small torch- pointed parallel to the seam and about 1/2 inch off of it- until the switch feel- warm to hot there but no melted plastic- the glue will brown just a little- it doesn't melt under heat, it powders, then run a heated straight blade screw driver up & down the white groove- be gentle- and scrape out the white stuff- any way, this works, but i am going to try an easier idea tomorrow- i am going to set the switch in alcohol- alcohol dissolves most glues- and wait awhile. with luck the switch will just fall apart- LOOK OUT FOR THE METAL PINS IN THE SIDE! the large one is the hinge for your roller wheel- pushes out easywith switch warmed up to hot bathwater temp. BUT THERE ARE TWO TINY ONES. THese are the toughies. i tried pushing them in while whole switch was hot, it worked on one side. they insert into a plastic block. tomorrow i am going to drill around them with my smallest bit and go clear thru the switch box until i make enough of a void at the end of the metal pins to push each one in about 1/16- 1/8 of an inch. if you don't push in the pins they will break the box, wheich i can see will be repairable but it is another obstacle- remember, when it comes to glue, always pick epoxy for hard applications, and you can quadruple yout bond strength by cleaning with alcohol before adhering. and don't believe the crap about epoxy being full strength as soon as itsets up. it takes ALL epoxies one full day to get to 50% bond strength- two weeks for full
verbositator Not Yet Wild Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 4

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