Headlight bulbs and wiring

porthole

I did a search but didn't come up with what I am looking for. And there is one post on the site with a wiring diagram that comes up as a bad link

I have a headlight bar which I assume has 2 headlights, 2 markers and 2 directionals. The cart does not have directionals.

All the bulbs were burned out except or 1.
The bulbs are 912, 921 and 874 for the headlight.

Turns out that I have 18 volts going to all the 12 volt stuff. I am assuming it is OK to run the negative wire to the center batteries to get 12 volts, is this acceptable? Horn is also bad and the brake light harness was cut too.

If not using directionals which hole gets the running light, inner or outer?
Is the912 bulb the lower wattage? (all 3 of these bulbs are pricey)

I haven't pulled the dash apart yet to look at the key switch, are there separate wires up to the key switch that would allow separating ht headlights form the running lights?

There are times that I would prefer to have the running lights on but not the headlights.

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BGW

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pansser

if you dont have a 36v to 12v converter you need to run the pos from one batt and the neg from the next batt in line so you are across 12v right now it sounds like you are across 3 batts giving you 18v. the inner holes are running the outer are turn.
red-blk = running
grn-blk= pass. turn
yel- blk =dr turn

Radicalgolfcarts

Agreed 18v is bad! Just cut back one batt!!

golfcarfixer

I Agree

porthole

OK, both headlight bulbs were bad and I promptly burned out a $9 bulb "checking".

In this picture the factory harness "positive" is connected at the terminal marked with the yellow X. The "negative" was connected at the red X, giving me 18v.

I moved that wire to the center battery "black line"

I now have 12.5 volts (approx) to all the accessories. All the lights seem to be normal brightness now.

But - my LED battery meter now reads a little funky, moving up and down but not quite reaching "full".

When I finished up tonight the meter was reading only 1 or 2 bars and blinking. I swapped the battery negative lead back to where it was and the meter reads fine.

The battery pack was reading 37.5 on a digital meter.
I'm wondering, should I move the negative lead back to the original position at the end of the battery pack and move the positive to the center battery?

It seems that the headlight and running lights all are tied together somewhere, anyone know where the splice is? I would like to "switch" the headlights, don't need them as much as I would like to have the running lights.

Also replaced the horn and made up a new jumper harness for the brake light switch (broken wire inside the jacket).

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Todd Dolfi

Go to autozone and get a 2 pole switch. pull first click for running lites, second click for head lites like your car.

porthole

I pulled the key switch out last night, one wire powers all the lights except brake and turn.

Any idea where the splice is? There is a wiring diagram here on the site but only the thumbnail is good, the link is bad, and I can't read the thumbnail.

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porthole

Seemed to have fixed my battery LED (dash unit) and accessory voltage issues.

I moved the grounds (3) back to the original location (yellow arrow)

I moved the what I think is the accessory harness from it's original location (yellow circle) to the center battery (blue).

That all seems fine now. Just have to find the splice that ties all the lights in together so I can split the headlights.

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mike45dfw

I am about to install head/tail kit with 30a relay. Question is how to incorporate the ignition switch. Do I run a lead from ignition switch direct to relay ? This would seem to to be a 36 volt connection to the relay. Is this correct..? My plan is to utilize a voltage converter and fuse block for accessories later..i.e., horn, aux lights, radio, etc. Any help with wiring diagrams for this set up would be greatly appreciated.

yurtle

I wired my headlights with a three position dpdt on-off-on switch: parallel is normal "high beam" and series is "low beam". Often when riding at night, the high beams are just too rude.