1995 Medalist 36 volt controller question

Q2arrowhunter

I have a 36 volt 1995 EZGO Medalist. I have had it for MANY years I bought it stock from a golf course and put a 7" lift, 22" tires, painted it camo, put a GE Beast high torque motor, gold post solinoid, and am on my 2 set of batteries. The controller is a curtis and I sent it to be rebuilt to a 400 amp or so I was told.

At any rate the batteries are relatively new (less than 1 year). Now when I climb hills with 4 people I start to smell hot plastic. The cart then kind of stutters, like the batteries have low charge. I have charged the batteries 5 times in a row as recommended by the golf cart place here.

The coltroller has a thin aluminum plate and from what I have seen a 400 amp would have a thicker plate.

Is there a way to test the controller to see if it a 400 amp. I can pull it and send it off. Am I correct that the higher amp the better off I am with the high torque motoer and larger tires.

What controller would work that is at least 400 amps


before and after





The final transition to my hog hunting machine



Any help would be great

BGW

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tunnelmike

I'm still having a similar problem with my 95 fleet with the D&D torque motor , 4ga wires, 22" tires and alltrax 650. The wires from the fnr switch get so hot you cant touch them. I think it might be the FnR switch itself , which other than the hd buss bars and contacs was stock and original. What is the life expectancy of the FnR switch ? Good luck Q2. Mike

Q2arrowhunter

I have 4 GA wires and the heavy duty F/R switch.

I took it to Pine Apple, AL Hunter Appreciation day Saturday and it stuttered a bit at first then ran ok from then on. I did not use it a lot but did carry 6 (total) adults about 3/4 mile parked it then carried 2 adults and 3 kids (two up top) back.

I just really think the controller is going out. That is where the smell seems to be coming from.

scottyb

Tunnel mike the stock F&R would last about 20 years under normal use in a stock cart.... If you use a high amp controller and big cables you must upgrade the F&R also. otherwise it will heat up and choke the flow. If your unit is still in good condition, install a HD Switch Cam or get a new HD unit.

Attached Images

IMG_3911.jpg (65.0 KB, 6 views)

scottyb

The stock controller is engineered to withstand the demands of 2 people playing golf.
It will not hold up under the demands of off-roading or big tires...
Even the smaller aftermarket controllers have limits which can be exceeded by 6 adults

Q2arrowhunter

What is a good controller? How big should I go? It has a Curtis that I had rebuilt to a 400 AMP (so I was sold) (Golf Cart Catalog.com). Mike there was pretty helpful.

I checked out Cartsunlimited.net - Would the package #444 be wise? Would it work on my cart?

scottyb

A speed controller engineer explained to me that boosting the stock controllers to higher ratings did not work because there are other components in the controller which are not up to the new output. That makes sense to me. A made for 400 or 500a controller would be a better bet. Going to 48v would be the best solution for the medalist pictured above IMO

Q2arrowhunter

Going to 48v would require a new charger, batteries, etc. This 36v cart still pulls by brother-in-laws Honda Foreman 4X4 400 in a tug of war. A new controller may be the most cost effective.

scottyb

Tying the golf cart to a 4 wheeler in a tug of war may be another reason your controller is smoked

Controller damage is accumulative .
Guard the controller from damage at all times.

Q2arrowhunter

After 4 years still no recommendations of a specific controller.