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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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07-23-2011, 10:36 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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HD Controller
I have an EZ GO Serial # 4898D8 Mf Code H0988
From the Manuals I downloaded it looks like I have an electronis control unit, but it is described as an HD in the picture on page 48 of the EZ GO parts service manual. The wireing diagrams I have foun do not have this controller included. I Suspect it is wired wrong, or bad. Based on the standard wireing diagram it is not wire properly or this on works completely differently. Does anyone have the correct wireing for this unit? Thanks in advance Archie |
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07-23-2011, 11:13 PM | #2 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,406
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Re: HD Controller
The wiring diagram for a 88 marathon should be in the stickies at the top of this section. 1988 is a resistor coil cart.
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07-24-2011, 01:04 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: HD Controller
I have the wireing diagram for the 88, it just isn't correct. The controller is definately an electronic one and looks like the HD controller on the page referanced in the original post. Apearently it was upgraded before I bought it. The wireing is very close to a Non- PDS.
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07-24-2011, 01:17 AM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: HD Controller
I have purchased the Manual for the 88/89, but it is definitely not a resister coil unit. I am an electronics tech, so very familiar with electronics. The controller has less wire terminals than the non-pds controller. Has 4 High amp connectors, and three signal inputs. Two come from accelerator box and one comes from a switch attached to the top of the accelerator box that comes from the reverse switch.
Confusing for sure. The main problem is the A1 terminal from the Motor is attached to a positive wire from the forward / reverse switch, not a negative. I bought it cheap because it doesn’t work. |
07-24-2011, 09:46 AM | #5 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: HD Controller
Hi Archie - Welcome to the BGW forum.
Like you, I'm new to carts, but familiar with electronics, so I can almost feel you pain. Sounds like someone that lacked the needed skills and knowledge started with a Resistor cart and unsuccessfully attempted to convert it to a Controller cart, then sold it when they couldn't make it work. At this point, every component and connection is suspect. Your 88/89 manual will tell you where the guy started from, so the questions are: Where was he trying to go and how was he trying to get there? I believe the first step would be identifying the controller and other non-original parts that have been added/substituted. Posting pictures of the controller and other non-original stuff might allow those familiar with all the different types of controllers to identify it. In fact, posting pictures of everything may help. Basically, you've got a battery pack (that may or may not be good) and a motor (that may or may not be good) and need to connect the two with a control circuit (that may or may not be good) and you have no wiring diagram for it. Others have converted a resistor cart to a controller cart, so search for threads about it and you might get some insight about what the guy was trying to do. If it were my project, I'd probably start from scratch and get the right stuff needed for the conversion from a reputable dealer and build it to a design that is known to work. Good Luck, John |
07-24-2011, 02:02 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: HD Controller
I have identified the controller as a Curtis 24-36 Volt 400 AMP Speed Controller
http://www.golfcarttrader.com/Contro...ontrollers.htm It is exactly like the one in the picture. I don’t actually know if it’s the 275 or the 400 amp but it looks like they would wire up the same. The throttle control and the Switch have been replaced also, so maybe all the parts are there. I believe the problem is there does not appear to be a ground circuit for the Motor . The Motor has A1, A2, S1, S2 connectors and according to the diagram for a non PDS controller with a motor like this, it should be grounded through the Controller and the B-, I’m assuming with an SCR circuit of some sort. It is, instead wired the B+ terminal on the controller. At least it is on the same terminal as the B+ lead from the Solenoid. I’m feeding B+ to both ends of the motor I believe. If I can identify the Terminals on the Controller I believe I can fix it. I have attached a diagram I altered from the one in the manual that I believe will work, any suggestions? |
07-24-2011, 02:06 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: HD Controller
I guessed the terminal designations, so any of them could be mis-labeled, rendering it inoperative. I’m looking for a schematic for the controller now.
Thanks again Archie |
07-24-2011, 02:37 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: HD Controller
Pictures of the project. Whats a safe way to clean up the mess, is water OK if the power is off?
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07-24-2011, 05:39 PM | #9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ben Wheeler, (East) Texas
Posts: 9
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Re: HD Controller
I have found the answer to my problems. The diagram above appears to be correct.
I have attached the Curtis PDF of the wiring Diagram for anyone else in the same boat. Hopefully I can fix it now. Thanks Archie |
07-25-2011, 07:59 AM | #10 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: HD Controller
Quote:
However, you seem to have gotten your arms around the problems and issues pretty well in a short period of time and my guess is that you'll be able to convert a can of worms into a operable cart in the near future. The reason I quoted you above is because there are no ground circuits in carts. Everything is two wire and floating. My guess is that if the frame was tied to B- (or B+), there would be a lot of accidental arc-welding going on and sparks in a hydrogen enriched atmosphere isn't a good thing. There may be other reasons, but just the potential for high current shorts and explosions are good enough for me not to do it. The Hydrogen out-gassed from lead-acid wet cell batteries while charging carries some of the electrolyte (Sulphuric Acid) with it, so the corrosion seen in your pictures is very likely to be acidic and should be neutralized before washing off. I use a mixture of 1 heaping teaspoon of baking soda per pint of distilled water to clean off my batteries and terminals, followed by a tap water rinse and air dry. The controller and solenoid should be sealed, water won't hurt the batteries and wires (if allowed to dry thoroughly before power is applied), but the switches and relays might not like getting soaked. In pictures of carts with the electronic package in the middle, there appears to be environmental covers to keep the road-spray and battery acid off, so you might want to give it some thought if you don't have any. You speculated about controllers using SCR circuits to control the motor current in one of your posts. I've yet to find schematics for the innards of any controllers, but some of the specs say MOSFETs and PWM in the 15KHz range. Sorry I cannot be of more help, John |
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