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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Unread 07-27-2011, 07:30 PM   #1
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Default Electric solenoid vs control problems.

1996 EZGO Medalist Series cart 36volt
Ran these test as instructed and got following results?

Start Battery voltage: 34.5 All batteries ck out fine and all cells have good specificity rates.


Step 1

Switch cart to "Tow-maintenance" mode by flipping the switch under seat. Disconnect the black battery cable (negative) from the battery, open the cover to the speed controller and then reconnect the negative battery cable.
* NO Tow/maint switch on mine
Step 1
Inspect all wires to ensure that they are attached and well connected, there are no breaks, corrosion or interference with the wires. Take the reading of the battery voltage by connecting the positive and negative probes to the battery. Write the voltage reading down.
Voltage is 34.5
(I've not had on charger for 10 days as that was last use.)

Step 2
Test the solenoid to see if this is the problem. Place the positive probe on the solenoid post that is closest to the battery. The reading should be equal to battery's voltage. If not, there is a wiring issue in the solenoid. Connect the positive probe to the other post and take a reading. If the voltage is not at least three volts fewer than the voltage reading for the battery, the resistor must be replaced. If you have a volt reading equal to the battery volts, the solenoid is the issue.
* Solenoid and resister were replaced.

*Voltage test to r/s solenoid post (near batteries) reads 34.4 other side reads 34.4 *not 3volts less then*

Step 3
Check the power output from the controller by connecting the negative probe to the controller's M terminal and positive to the B+ terminal. Press the accelerator and watch to see if the voltage increases. It should increase from a reading of 0 to the full voltage of the battery. If the motor is not turning, the problem may be in the directional switch or motor. The controller is bad and must be replaced if there is no voltage.

Did this test. When I placed (-) probe on M and pos probe on B+ term it reads 32.8 v.. pushing the pedal down then 'does nothing' as no change in volts remaining at 32.8. Same with key on/off.** But when I did test by placing F/R switch either way.. zero O reading.** Is this Normal ??

Using these test results, can anyone advise or lend some advice on what these results mean? Anymore test I can try?
Thanks, Jack
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Unread 07-28-2011, 07:12 PM   #2
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

i had that problem and it was a loose connection on the plug that goes to the pedal. maybe it could be the micro switch that is bad. make sure voltage is going throught the microsicth when the pedal is pressed and check with ohms all connections on that plug
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Unread 07-29-2011, 09:50 AM   #3
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 10tontractor View Post
...............Start Battery voltage: 34.5 All batteries ck out fine and all cells have good specificity rates..........
At 34.5 volts, your battery pack is 90% or more discharged.
A fully charged 36V battery pack will read 38.2 volts
A fully charged 6V battery will read 6.37 Volts
A fully charged Lead Acid wet cell will have a Specific Gravity of 1.277

I'm pretty sure those tests are to be made with fully charged, or near fully charged batteries.
Charge the battery and try again.

FWIW. Some controllers have a low battery cut off and will not run if battery is too low.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 10:17 AM   #4
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

your still working with dead batteries that is your first problem, get new batteries charge them up over night and then do your testing, one of your batteries is only holding, what was it 4.1 volts or something?..... get new batteries. they are the hart of your cart, if your hart wern't pumping the doctors could keep on testing and testing to see why you can't move but you would still just be dead. do something els untile you can get the batteries, polish up the bumpers check all your steering make sure everything is right, paint pink butterflies all over it when you get the batteries and you know your starting with something good then you test further.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 10:41 AM   #5
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

Good Grief. I should have searched for this guy's previous posts.

So he knows he has bad batteries and is replacing solenoids and resisters.

Methinks I wasted my time trying to be helpful.

What northwestfarmtn said.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 10:59 AM   #6
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Good Grief. I should have searched for this guy's previous posts.

So he knows he has bad batteries and is replacing solenoids and resisters.

Methinks I wasted my time trying to be helpful.

What northwestfarmtn said.
Well, not quite my friend. After some questions answered concerning battery read outs.. I tested each battery (separately) and found most at 6v. Up till then, I thought 34.5 was a good read. But being imformed that that is not good enough... I went back to previous post and replied to those who were helping that I do indeed need batteries.
I tried the solenoid w/resistor because I got power up to that point before. (and didn't know batteries were the problem) false assumption.. yep!s

But your info:
At 34.5 volts, your battery pack is 90% or more discharged.
A fully charged 36V battery pack will read 38.2 volts
A fully charged 6V battery will read 6.37 Volts
A fully charged Lead Acid wet cell will have a Specific Gravity of 1.277 (was helpful)

"I'm pretty sure those tests are to be made with fully charged, or near fully charged batteries.
Charge the battery and try again." (Did that and found batt's were only charging to 34.5)

But I now have a polished bumper, pretty pink butterflies, a tight steering radius plus a v8 short block installed in the wasted golf bag compartment as a back up (just in case) I run the 6volts empty.

Other then that....

(US 2200's and all new 4ga wires with a F/R cam, on board meter and ect are on the way.

Thanks for your help farmer.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 12:56 PM   #7
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 10tontractor View Post
........Thanks for your help farmer......
Congratulations, you correctly identified my Avatar as an Antenna Farm. (This one was the Wullenweber Array at RAF Chicksands, UK)

Hopefully we didn't get off on the wrong foot. Being an old curmudgeon, I've been known to get snarky at times.
I'm new to carts also, but I've been fixin' electrical and electronic stuff for 50+ years and taught Troubleshooting Techniques in the USAF BMET School.

When you get those new batteries installed, be sure and break them in properly. ScootyB has got How-To info on his website.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Batter...n_Methods.html

Below is a table for Battery voltage vs State of Charge (SOC) that someone posted here. Some guys post SOC vs Voltage next to their on-board DVM.

Please post pictures of cart with pink butterflies and polished bumpers.
Pics of the small block V8 back-up would hit over in the gasser forum.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg batterytable1118242f71.jpg (43.1 KB, 10 views)
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Unread 07-29-2011, 01:31 PM   #8
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

I would love to see the pretty pink butterflies, the V8 might be interesting too. so what are the REAL projects you got lined up while your waiting for batteries would love to hear about whats new with the cart. I am thinking about getting mine up to street legal specs as my next project.
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Unread 07-29-2011, 02:35 PM   #9
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

misfire..
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Unread 07-29-2011, 02:43 PM   #10
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Default Re: Electric solenoid vs control problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by northwestfarmtn View Post
I would love to see the pretty pink butterflies, the V8 might be interesting too. so what are the REAL projects you got lined up while your waiting for batteries would love to hear about whats new with the cart. I am thinking about getting mine up to street legal specs as my next project.
I was getting a solid 14mph on those old batteries on the flats.
(bought cart 4mo ago as is) So will 1st test with new batteries alone..
Then go with Scotty's F&R cam upgrade for quick continuity/ cooler results.
(will then measure results of that and measure that add-on proformance.
Next:
The motor in this job appears to run great.. not ready for that $$$ upgrade (as yet)
After those that test not sure what would be the next best upgrade for the bucks and performance values. I want the torque for the hills around here.

On the Side, I will probably go with his new design meter guage kit for the EZgo /true batt pak read w/ switch mounting...also.

Recently purchased Carlisle's low pros on 10" chrome rims. (not much higher ride then 8" rims on normal (non-low pro) tires. But I'm looking for torgue not speed.


PS: any idea how to keep the front end of a cart down with rear mtg V8 ? .
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