2005 Electric EzGo wont go but motor sounds like it is running?

contractorslim

Hey guys new to the forums. I am on here because a friend of mine has a 2005 Electric EzGo Cart. About 2 weeks ago he went to drive it up from his clubhouse back to the house and it wouldn't go at all. Upon further inspection while you have the cart in gear and you press the throttle you can hear the motor vibrate. After realizing this I jacked up the rearend with covers of the cart off and depressed the throttle. The wheels started moving but when I put pressure onto them with my hands they stop, although the motor sounds as if it is still running. I have been reading all the no go threads here which relate to each individual battery able to cause a problem. I will be going over tomorrow night after work to see what I can find out. Originally I thought that the problem could be from an extremely worn gear inside the transaxle but dont hear any funny noises. Could low voltage cause this problem? Tomorrow regardless of any answers I will check the voltage at the main posts and then watch for a voltage drop when depressing the pedal. Once I determine the results I will go to the individual batteries.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was getting ready to pull the entire transaxle out of the cart until I came across this forum.

BGW

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gornoman

Welcome to BGW!

The situation you describe leads me to believe he has stripped the splines of a brake drum/hub (a known weak spot in the drivetrain), probably on the driver's side, but could be either one. Remove any hubcaps or hub dust shields, put the cart on the ground, select forward, and hit the gas. One of the axle castle nuts will be spinning, and the other side will remain stationary. The spinning side is the bad drum/hub.

Coltf1991

Thats what I was thinking, but didnt want to speak up and look dumb.

contractorslim

That's what I had originally thought. Pulled the drivers side apart with no visual stripped splines but didn't pull the passenger side apart. Will check that first thing! If that is the case should I try to get parts direct from ez-go or is there an aftermarket source for the same part? Thanks for your quick response and I will let you know what I find out tomorrow evening! Thanks guys!

Coltf1991

It may not be visible. Hit the gas and see if the axle spins and the wheel does not. And you could always convert to rear disc.

gornoman

The OEM part is made of higher quality steel than the aftermarket version and is recommended. There is a mechanical disc conversion available from some site sponsors. It is a nice setup if he wants to upgrade.

contractorslim

Ok thanks! Will check it out and then see where he wants to go, probably will just go back with what's on here as he only uses it to drive from the front yard to the back yard lol.

scottyb

The torque specs for that axle nut is 100-140 ft pounds. Failure to properly torque the axle nut will result in another stripped hub. Just for the record it is the passenger side that strips most often. Tell the driver to be sure to stop before switching direction.
Happy carting!

contractorslim

There is the problem I guarantee it! I took the drivers side apart trying to see and the axle nut was only hand tight with the pin removed!!! I knew something was wrong there! Its just like a car lol. Ill be sure to take my torque wrench and go ahead and torque the drivers side to where it should be. Thanks for that valueable insight because I had a feeling it wasn't right!

scottyb

Glad to help
If you can not tighten it properly and get the the cotter pin hole, you can add another thin washer (like the one used inside the brake drum) to help change the cotter pin line up.