reed switch replacement

m180

I am replacing the reed switch on my cart, how do I install the encapsulated replacement switch? How does it fit within the connector housing? Also, are the conversions kits that eliminate the reed switch are they a viable alternative? Thanks

BGW

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madoc1

welcome to BGW m180. you don't need "need" the reed switch. it was a safety feature to keep dummies from driving off with charger attatched. same thing can be obtained by running the cord thru the steering wheel. later models do not even have one. you don't need a kit. just trace the wire from the micro switch to the carge port, cut it there and attatch the wire to the first pos. terminal in the pack.

Attached Files

EZGO Service Series Electric Wiring.pdf (328.5 KB, 23 views)

littlebob

Like madoc1 said, its easy to bypass, but is a safety device the factory thought was important enough to spend the money on. If you check the cost replacing the Charge receptacle, cord end or a run over charger it makes sense.

scottyb

A couple of years later Ezgo eliminated the reed switch.... if you run the charge cord thru the steering wheel and then plug it into the cart you won't drive off with it plugged in...... your call & the $40 reed switch is available and cheap insurance if you want to look at it that way.

m180

Thanks madoc1. I did the bypass, selonoid clicks (as expected) but cart does not move, instead, the pos (bl+) wire arc's at the battery, after i press the accellerator all the way. If I back off just a bit it quits, I think I have a short some where. :/. could it be in the speed sensor? the white and black leads on this sensor are normally open until energized (i think) however, when energized I still have no continuity between these 2 leads.

simple man

You should never have an arc! You have a bad connection at the point where you saw the arc. I'd take off ( one at a time ) the cables on your batteries and clean the battery posts and the cable ends to bright metal and reinstall them. Do not tighten these extremely tight.The stud in the battery post can pull out. Snug with a short wrench is fine. Let us know of the outcome!

Also check the terminal connection to the wire itself while you are cleaning them. Anything that is blackened or the insulation is blistered had a bad connection! :)

JohnnieB

What year/type cart do you have?

If it has a speed sensor, I'm pretty sure it is a PDS, so here's a pretty good overview of the PDS system.

If you look at last page (9 of 9 - but marked Pg 17) you'll see the black wire is B- and the White wire is the output, which is a pulse train. I'm not sure exactly what is used to detect, amplify and shape the pulses generated when one of the rotating set of eight magnets passes by the sensing point, but I don't believe there would be much , if any, continuity between either the Black (or Red) wire and the White wire.

A defective speed sensor will limit the cart's speed to about 3mph, but won't cause arc's. Simple man is right, if you're getting an arc at any of the battery cables, you've got a bad connection. Clean and tighten, or replace.

Max Torque for battery terminals is 95-105 Lb/In (about 8 to 9 Lb/Ft) so easy does it. FWIW: I use a nut-driver or a 1/4" drive socket on a screwdriver type handle.

Attached Files

pds.pdf (300.6 KB, 6 views)

m180

Guys, thanks. It was the connection. I replaced all the battery cables and installed new batteries before the Arc (except one). Turns out when I clipped the wire that was arcing, I had to replace it,corrosion had wicked its way six inches back inside the insulation. I appreciate the assist. I was over thinking the problem