need help on ezgo K1797

ticklegs

Trying to repair ezgo. I have the serial number 1053052 and Model number K1797.
Problem is with 36 volts read on batteries, which are new, the motor is turning [I can hear it] but its not moving the wheels. Seems to me whatever is supposed to drive the wheels, like a transmission or belt is not doing the job.

I really don't know a lot, yet, about golf carts.

Thanks in advance.

BGW

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scottyb

It sounds like a stripped brake hub. Pull off the hub caps & whatever else you need to remove, (bearing cap?) to see the Castle nut on the end of the axle shaft. Do this on the Passenger side first. Have somebody try to drive the cart and see if you see the nut turn but not the wheel. If yes, replace the Brake drum/hub. If no, go to the drivers side and repeat.
Pay attention to torque specs if you replace a rear hub or you will be doing it again real soon...

JohnnieB

While fixing the stripped hubs, you might want to consider putting those new batteries on charge.

First, at 36V they are 50% discharged, which is on the borderline of irreversible damage.
Second, You've got a DCS cart and DCS controllers don't tolerate low battery voltage.

Go to Scotty's website and read everything in the menu (top left) that has "Battery" in the title.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/

ticklegs

I removed the wheels and turned the brake drums and I could feel and hear axles moving on both sides. I didn't tear it down as far as removing the castle nut. I will read all the stuff on that site JohnnieB. And Thanks scottyb,,, got any more suggestions. Thanks so far with your suggestions. ticklegs

JohnnieB

Either I'm reading what you've written wrong or you didn't do it right???

Remove hubcaps and/or dust covers to expose the castle nuts holding the brake-drums onto the rear axles, replace the wheel/tire assemblies.
Watch castle nuts while someone tries to drive the cart away.
If castle nut on either side spins, but cart doesn't move, the splines are stripped.

Even with severely stripped splines, there is typically enough friction from metal to metal contact alone to turn the axle by turning the brake-drums.
Torque (from motor) has to be applied by the axle and drag has to be applied by the brake-drum.
Test is invalid the other way around.

ticklegs

O.K. JohnnieB I gotcha this time, will check and report back. Thanks....

ticklegs

O.K. guys, last night I checked the the castle nuts on both sides of cart. And put the batteries on charge overnight. All is well with castle nuts. So no stripped splines.

This morning I tried operating the cart and it ran good until I was about 200 yards away from the house and on the way back I had to climb a small rise in the road. It would not climb the hill and I had to pull it back home. The Batteries when I started this morning were at 36 volts. At the top of the driveway where I go down hill it ran good again, and I parked it, and took a read on the batteries, almost full charge at 36 volts. Could this be a bad motor.

JohnnieB

First and foremost:
36V is not, repeat, is not almost a full charge!!!!!!!
It is less than 50% and your "New" batteries are currently self destructing simply by being allowed to remain discharged to a nearly unusable state.
Get them fully charged (38.2V) or all you will have is boat anchors.

Attached is a chart showing Voltage vs State of Charge.
Go to Scottyb's website and read everything in the top left menu with the word "Battery" in the title.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/

What charger are you using?
If it is an automatic one, it isn't working.
If it is a manual one, it is not being left on long enough.
If you are truly getting 36.0V after an overnight (12 hr) charge, you have one or more defective batteries.

Secondly:
The E-Z-GO site tells me you serial number is a 1997 TXT (DCS).
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

A DCS controller is hyper-sensitive to low voltage (IE: 36V) and is either already blown, or soon will be if you continue to run it with those almost completely Discharged batteries.

Third:
If you don't have a DMM that will read voltages in the 10V to 99V range with at least one digit to the right of the decimal point, and 0v to 9.99v with at least two digits to the right of the decimal point, get one. An inexpensive one from a big box store will be adequate for trouble shooting a cart.

Fourth:
Never, ever, allow your batteries to be discharged below 50%, like they are now.

Fifth:
Your motor is moving the cart, so it is probably OK.

Sixth:
You mentioned you had to pull the cart home. Did you flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow?????
If not, that is another thing that will blow a DCS controller, burn up a DCS motor and ruin good batteries.

Whenever you tow, or work on a DCS (or PDS) cart, flip switch to Tow. (Unless system needs to be powered for troubleshooting)

Finally:
Get your battery and/or battery charger issues straightened out and then try the cart again.
Maybe you'll luck out and not have a blown controller also, but I won't take any bets on it.

Attached Images

batterytable1118242f71.jpg (43.1 KB, 3 views)

ticklegs

First and foremost:
36V is not, repeat, is not almost a full charge!!!!!!!
It is less than 50% and your "New" batteries are currently self destructing simply by being allowed to remain discharged to a nearly unusable state.
Get them fully charged (38.2V) or all you will have is boat anchors.

Attached is a chart showing Voltage vs State of Charge.
Go to Scottyb's website and read everything in the top left menu with the word "Battery" in the title.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/

What charger are you using?
If it is an automatic one, it isn't working.

[I have a very tired looking Lestron II Automatic ]

If it is a manual one, it is not being left on long enough.
If you are truly getting 36.0V after an overnight (12 hr) charge, you have one or more defective batteries.

Secondly:
The E-Z-GO site tells me you serial number is a 1997 TXT (DCS).
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

A DCS controller is hyper-sensitive to low voltage (IE: 36V) and is either already blown, or soon will be if you continue to run it with those almost completely Discharged batteries.

Third:
If you don't have a DMM that will read voltages in the 10V to 99V range with at least one digit to the right of the decimal point, and 0v to 9.99v with at least two digits to the right of the decimal point, get one. An inexpensive one from a big box store will be adequate for trouble shooting a cart.

[ Going to get a new one today ]

Fourth:
Never, ever, allow your batteries to be discharged below 50%, like they are now.

Fifth:
Your motor is moving the cart, so it is probably OK.

Sixth:
You mentioned you had to pull the cart home. Did you flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow????? [ Yes I did this. ]
If not, that is another thing that will blow a DCS controller, burn up a DCS motor and ruin good batteries.

Whenever you tow, or work on a DCS (or PDS) cart, flip switch to Tow. (Unless system needs to be powered for troubleshooting)

Finally:
Get your battery and/or battery charger issues straightened out and then try the cart again.
Maybe you'll luck out and not have a blown controller also, but I won't take any bets on it.
Attached Thumbnails

Going to work on the Battery issues, however I believe I just have a pile of junk.

What would your suggestions be for a charger.

Thanks again JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Unless the transformer is bad in your Lestronic II charger, everything else is fixable, so you don't have to spring for a new charger unless you want to.

FWIW: I use a PowerWise II, which is basically the same charger with different silk-screening on the outside.
It is a good charger and is built like a tank.
It is also fairly easy to troubleshoot and repair.

Attached is a troubleshooting Guide for it.

Read it cover to cover before opening the charger. Tons of good info in it.
WARNING: The capacitor can have up to 680V on it. SO BE CAREFUL!!!!

When you plug the charger into the cart, is there a 3-5 second delay before it clicks on? (There should be)
Does the ammeter on the charger jump to 10-20 amps when charger clicks on? (Its should.)

If charger is doing as above.
Attach you DMM to the main battery terminals, note voltage.
Plug charger into cart, what does voltage jump to?
Does the voltage continue to rise as time passes?

Let us know what you find.


Added: I'm not sure if you meant the charger or the cart was a pile of junk, or both, but with some TLC both will be up and running soon.
BTW: TLC usually means "Tender Love and Care", but with carts if often means "Troubleshooting, Labor and Cash".

As mention above the charger is a good one.
DCS controllers had problems, but an aftermarket controller will take care of that.
A Sepex motor isn't as good as a Series wound one for off road, but if you don't try to climb steep hills or creep through the woods, they're okay for running around the neighborhood (or golf courses)
Hang in there, it's fixable; And we'll help you do it (from afar)
John

Attached Files

Lestronic II - troubleshootingguide-1.pdf (62.4 KB, 4 views)