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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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11-23-2011, 11:03 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8
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car not running
hi my cart is not running the solenoid does not click
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11-23-2011, 11:14 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 539
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Re: car not running
Welcome.
Tell us more about your cart. year, volts. the more the better. |
11-23-2011, 11:26 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8
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Re: car not running
its an 2001 36 volt pds
i have 37 volts at the controller and solenoid but does nothing |
11-23-2011, 11:43 AM | #4 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 539
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Re: car not running
This is the sticky on the top of the page. follow these and it will help narrow it down. If you have questions, ask away. Lot of very smart people on here, present company excluded.
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html |
11-23-2011, 02:09 PM | #5 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: car not running
Welcome to BGW.
Actually, go to the bottom sticky at the top of the Electric EZGO forum (one level up from where you are now) and download the Operator's, Service and Parts Manuals. Here's a schematic of your cart. If the solenoid isn't clunking when your depress the throttle, the problem could be (starting at left center and going clockwise) the Reed Switch, the F/R switch, the Pedal switch, the Run/Tow switch, the Key switch, the Solenoid coil or the controller and/or the wires connecting them to the controller. First, Make sure the Run/Tow switch is in the "Run" position. Second, Measure the voltage on the red wire (smallest of the three wires) coming out of the charger Receptacle. It should be the same as you battery pack voltage. (BTW, your battery voltage is low. State of Charge is only about 65%, but that ought to be enough to make the solenoid clink.) (The PDS controller does have a low voltage cut-off, below which it won't energized the solenoid, but I think is is under 35V.) Beyond that, you'll need to remove the controller environmental cover. Place Run/Tow switch in "Tow" whenever you remove cover or disconnect batteries, or controller might self destruct. Two visible bolts top, two hidden bolts bottom. Place Run/Tow back to "Run" and you can measure voltages to/from the various switches at J1, J3 and J4 |
11-23-2011, 02:35 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8
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Re: car not running
thank you
after more checking i believe my controller is bad does anyone know where i can get a cheap one again thank you |
11-23-2011, 02:46 PM | #7 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 341
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Re: car not running
Have you checked the reed switch yet? They fail all the time. Take the top of the charger receptacle off, and try removing the reed switch and reconnecting the wire to the same location without the reed switch. if this doesn't work try checking everything in johnnies post before you replace the controller, unless you have performed the test and are 100% sure it is the problem, a controller is expensive and will be a huge waste if it isn't actually the controller that is bad.
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11-23-2011, 02:59 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8
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Re: car not running
i will double check that reed switch is there anyway to bypass the controller
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11-23-2011, 03:17 PM | #9 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 341
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Re: car not running
Do you mean reed switch? you simply take it out and connect the two ends of the wire that were connected to the reed switch. Newer models don't even have a reed switch. The wire is there, but it goes straight to the controller with no reed switch.
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11-23-2011, 03:19 PM | #10 |
Gone Crazy
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chesterfield, Va
Posts: 6,021
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Re: car not running
Welcome Erick,
The controllers are a major expense so before you buy one can you please tell us how you came to that conclusion? There are a lot of issues that will also not energize a solenoid. |
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