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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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02-12-2012, 01:18 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2
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new f&r switch
simple ? put new heavy duty f&r switch in my 36 txt also add 4 gauge cables everywere to help after lift ( 6inch on 22s )gauge shows full charge got 36.8at pack now that not full but run time is about 15min till just wont move thinking battery just old but any clue would help before tear down
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02-12-2012, 01:46 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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Re: new f&r switch
Your batteries are very low on charge! I don't know what type of charger you have so if it's an automatic one, connect it to charge and leave it charge until it shuts itself off. If it's a timer charger, set it to start and let it charge until it stops. Here's a chart for voltages related to state of charge ( soc ) and specific gravity ( hydrometer test ) This is the first step in an electric cart! The batteries must check out first. I forgot to mention to make sure the electrolyte just covers over the plates before you charge the batteries.
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02-12-2012, 10:46 AM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 11
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Re: new f&r switch
I think I have the same problem. I have a timer charger. Can you over charge the batteries. I'm afraid if I set the timer too long something's gonna blow! Is that even possible? After about 10 min of charging I can hear what sounds like boiling. Checked the fluid levels and the electrolyte covers the plates like its supposed to. I'd hate to burn the house down....
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02-12-2012, 01:35 PM | #4 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: new f&r switch
Quote:
If it is a manual (timer controlled) golf cart charger, look up the the battery pack voltage on the State of Charge on the chart posted above by simpleman and multiply the AH rating of your battery pack by the percentage found. That is how much energy you have to put back in your battery pack. For example, if the OP had a set of T-105 Batteries (225 AH) and that had a pack voltage of 36.8V, they would have a Soc (State of Charge) of 60% and need need about 90AH put back into them. If his charger put out 20 Amps, he would need 4.5 hours of charging mathematically, but the recharging a battery isn't 100% efficient and due to the design, the charger only puts out 20A for the first half hour or so. My estimate is that it will take those batteries about 8-10 hours to reach a full charge. Another way of doing it, is monitoring the pack voltage with a DVM and let the charger run until the pack voltage reaches 45V. No that is not a Typo - A 36V automatic charger shuts off in the 44V-46V range and 45V is splitting the difference. The "boiling" you hear is called gassing and it is a normal part of recharging a lead-acid battery. Passing current through the electrolyte (25% to 33% sulfuric acid in pure water) breaks down the water into its component parts, Hydrogen and Oxygen) and they bubble to the surface. If you charge about two hours per 10% of discharge and your charge starts out at about 20A, you won't be overcharging and you'll probably be getting close to a full charge. Only add water (distilled water only) to fully charged batteries unless the plates are exposed and then only add enough to cover plates. Do not overfill batteries or electrolyte will bubble out during the charging process. Good info on battery care and charging can be found here. Read everything with the word "battery" in the title. http://www.cartsunlimited.net/ |
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02-12-2012, 01:49 PM | #5 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: new f&r switch
Quote:
Your SoC gauge is lying to you. Get a DVM type gauge. Some bargraph type gauges have to be installed when the batteries are at full charge because they think whatever the voltage is when they are first connected is 100%. Others reset when the sense the battery is on charge, so if charger is shut down before the batteries are fully charged, the gauge reads wrong. You might try disconnecting the gauge, fully charging the batteries and then reconnecting it, but I wouldn't trust a bargraph type SoC gauges until I had verified its accuracy with a DVM. Even then, I'd probably replace it with a DVM or analog type. |
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02-12-2012, 04:40 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 2
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Re: new f&r switch
you guys very help full found two bad batteries guess all those big old cables just zapped them and the fact after finding out the batteries are 8 years old figure its about time they roll over the chart was extremely help full the charger says ezgo power wise 2 on the front of it once again thanks and appreciate you guys being patient with the new guys repeat ?
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