Can I install the front Cowl WITHOUT rivets

yurtle

That's what I did on all of my accessories, but I didn't want the frame to become a negative ground, as that's what would have happened if I didn't insulate them.

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

jonequest

Yeah, I can see that.

ezgokid

Did you ever find the right size rivets before switching to screws?

chloe

I may have found a good solution to the removeable body issue. They're called "jack nuts" . Our local ACE carries them , (yes another day with the local ACE girl and my unusual questions). Anyway, here's a link to some even better than ACE carries.

http://www.enfasco.com/frame4.htm


The second link, (youtube) is the kind carried at ACE. They also carry the tool. If the "nut" is placed in the existing rivet hole, (resized if necessary), then the body is slipped over the nut, holes lined up and a bolt run into the nut, it should work as well as any rivet. Better because it's removeable.

madoc1

looks like the perfect solution. how much does the ace tool cost?

chloe

I did an online check. The tool shown in the youtube clip runs between 60 and 75 dollars. There are some cheaper. There is also an air driven unit. But, keep in mind NO TOOL is necessary. Yes, with the tool one can get near perfect results with each application. However, the proper size bolt can accomplish the same thing as the tool. The only issue is the nut slipping on the metal as it compresses. My thought is, if you don't want the expense of the tool, buy a bicycle inner tube, cut small patches out of the tube and punch holes in the patches. Slide the patch over the bolt that will compress against the under side of the sheet metal. Then as you turn your bolt, the compression of the nut against the inner tube patch will ensure the nut does not spin.
For me, it's a no brainer. I bought 40 of the nuts designed to carry a 5/16 bolt. I bought 40 stainless torx cap head screws and one bolt with a similar thread. I'm going to drill out the metal frame so that the bolts can be slid in and I will torque them down with the extra bolt. When I install the body, I will just run the cap head srews into the nut from the outside of the body. I think it will look great. If one doesn't want the stainless bolts, use the black version of the cap head screws.

madoc1

we want to see pics when you get some done. i also guess you could use a good 18v driver to seat the nuts. did you get the ace ones or the others? those thin head ones look nice.

JcXtreme72

That is really cool I love it. Chloe I respectfully disagree with you. ALL TOOLS are neccisarry. I will agree that you don't have to use a tool to set the jack nuts but I just can't bring myself to agree that tools are unnecisarry.

chloe

I stand corrected Jc. But then, in the real world of garages and such, any excuse to buy a new tool is a good one.

Jim I agree with you. I think the whole idea of the tool is the constant and consistant torque on the threads as it compresses. The power driver would give just such a result. I bought the Ace units, then I saw the ones I posted. As I get ready to install the body, I'll have to decide which I really want to use. The units from enfasco do appear to be stronger and more like an actual rivet.

jonequest

My plastic washers and speaker screw clips are still holding just fine. Cost $0.00 since a set comes with every crap speaker sold or you can get them at the auto parts store in a blister pack. They do require a specialty tool called a phillips screwdriver. Those metal nuts would be great on a lot of other more demanding things though.