97 TXT motor stays on

53jimc

Hi All,

I have a 97 TXT series cart with a 1206 controller.

Any time the F/R switch is in F or R, the cart tries to move. It isn't a full speed, just a crawl move.

If I don't put the F/R switch in neutral, the wiring to the controller gets hot and starts a burning smell.

This happens no matter if the switch on the dash is on or off.

It does not have a tow/run switch and there is no F/R switch on the dash. It is a series cart with the large F/R switch next to my right knee.

I did remove the F/R switch, cleaned the contacts, put it back together and no change. Any time the F/R switch is engaged, the cart motor is on.

I did search but didn't find anything for this year/model cart with this problem.

Thanks for any help you can give.

BGW

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scottyb

Two things that shouldn't happen are happening. There could a welded solenoid and a mis-adjusted throttle plunger... but on second thought there could be a mis-adjusted throttle plunger that is doing both of these things = activating the solenoid and putting a little throttle input signal to the control. That's my guess.
Does the solenoid click when you put the cart in gear?

yurtle

This is not a sales pitch, but I just upgraded my 98 TXT series, so I may have used parts available, if needed.

JohnnieB

I lean more towards the welded closed contacts in the solenoid than the throttle plunger being out of adjustment.
That problem wouldn't activate solenoid when key switch was in OFF position and the OP stated problem exists with key off and on.

However, there is the possibility of multiple failures, but I'd check out the single failure root cause first.

53jimc

Yes, the solenoid comes on when I put it in F or R, regardless of key switch position.

Thanks for the responses, so far. I'll check the throttle box area and see if I can spot anything there.

YURTL, I may need some of the parts. I'll let you know. Do you have a thread about your conversion? I think I'll do that, too, once I get some of this other "homework" done. We're refurbishing an old house at the moment so fun projects get pushed to the side.

53jimc

Hi All,

I found this diagram. I think I'm starting to understand it now. If the charger reed switch is ok, and MS2 is NC in F or R, then MS3 has be be closed all the time for the solenoid to engage.

So, it looks like my next task is to get into the throttle box. It could be a simple adjustment or, there could be a micro switch fault.

But, the key switch should drop the solenoid out so there's obviously either a key switch fault, solenoid welded contacts, or wiring problem.

Wish me luck and I'll let you know.

JohnnieB

Personally, I'd measure the voltage at the solenoid coil.
Small terminal with two red wires.
Should be B+ with Key ON, F or R elected and throttle pressed.
Should be -0- if any of above three conditions not met.

If the coil voltage is only there when the three conditions are met, the solenoid contacts are welded closed. (A solenoid can click and still be bad)

To verify, remove the 250 Ohm resistor and cable to controller.
Should only have B+ when on empty terminal when key ON, F or R selacted and throttle pressed.

scottyb

A welded solenoid was my initial 'guess' but that would not explain the creeping described..... I think, there has to be some throttle input to feed power to the motor. But I could be wrong. It is always a guess from here...

JohnnieB

Welded solenoid and ITS out of adjustment?
Mine creeps, or tries to, when the solenoid clicks.
ITS voltage at controller is within specs, but at the high end, so adjusting ITS is near the bottom of my bucket list.

53jimc

Hi Everyone. just thought I'd throw an update in here. I finally had time to have a look at the cart. I have been using it, just making sure that when I stop I put the F/R in neutral.

I did find a loose connection on the controller. That will be fixed when I get parts and put everything back together.

I did check the solenoid and the contacts do not seem to be welded. When I disconnected it from the batteries, it showed no continuity using a DVM.

I opened the throttle box under the floor mat and there was water in it and a lot of corrosion on the micro switch. The push on connector broke off when I tried to remove it from the switch. The micro switch is definitely bad and staying in the NC position, thus engaging the solenoid any time the F/R switch is in "gear".

I have not checked the key switch yet, but it seems to me that if the key switch is off, no power should go to the solenoid, even if the accelerator is pressed. I'll check that next. I didn't have time to do that yesterday.

There has to be some type of O ring or seal to keep water out of that box. I'll look through the drawings and see what I can find.

Thanks for all your comments and I'll keep you posted.