1989 EZGO Marathon wiring

cmb7684 · 04-20-2012, 09:49 PM

I was hoping to find a specific wiring diagram for this cart. I found a thread here with a 1990 Marathon but not sure if they are the same? I'm helping a buddy with his cart and know nothing about them. This is my first time ever peeking inside one but I'm willing to give it a try.

The cart has had several previous owners who added lights etc. When comparing the wires on the 89 to the ones shown in the 90 the lay out of the controller, solenoid and batteries seem the same but the wiring appears different which may be why my buddy's isnt working.

My buddy got the cart for free from his cousin. His cousin said that it was working but the batteries went dead so it sat up for a little while. My buddy bought new batteries and we are getting 38 volts at the end of the series.

I don't want to disassemble the existing wiring without being sure I cant get back to it.

What are my best options? Right now I turn the key and get nothing.

cmb7684 · 04-20-2012, 10:06 PM

Attached are a few pics of how its wired now. Hard to see I know but I wanted to try to show the general lay out.

kernal · 04-21-2012, 07:37 AM

The cart in the pictures is a "resister" cart. So, not solid state and no controller. If this is the cart you are trying to fix, look for wiring diagrams for resister carts in the stickies. Resister carts from '88-'92 and probably older should be wired vary similar if not identical as far as the main power delivery is concerned.

JohnnieB · 04-21-2012, 09:08 AM

Here is a wiring diagram for the battery pack. The dotted line is the 12V tap for the accessories and may or may not be attached or may be attached in a different place (Across any two of the six 6V batteries will give you 12V)

Also, here are a schematic and a wiring diagram. The schematic shows how it works electrically, while the wiring diagram better shows the physical layout of the wires and cables.

With the key "ON" and F/R control in "F" or "R", does the solenoid click when throttle is pressed?

cmb7684 · 04-21-2012, 10:06 AM

Thank you for the respones. I will be with him tomorrow again working on it. I will track out the wiring tomorrow to make sure everything matches up to what is shown. I assume we may have the diagnostic guides for this "resistor cart" here on the site so I will dig around some to seewhat comes up. Like I said I'm 100% new to this so you have to bear with me on the lingo I may get wrong lol.

As far as clicking when the pedal is pushed I think that is where we made of first mistake.

I was treating the cart like acar motor with a starter when that is not the case. The key switch appears to be bad. I tried to jump it off by touching the wires together for a second like you would a car starter. After thinking about it last night I probably should have left the wires connected to run constant power when jumping off the key switch. Learning as I go here.

JohnnieB · 04-21-2012, 10:28 AM

There are two main circuits.
First is the low current solenoid activation circuit. The contacts in the Key switch and two microswitches have to closed for current to flow through the solenoid coil.
Once the solenoid 's contacts close, high current can flow in the motor drive circuit.
Depending how far the throttle pedal is pushed down, the battery pack is either connected to the motor through some coils of wire (resistors) or connected to it directly.

In anything other than the pedal flat on the floor, the resistors limit the Amps the motor can draw and convert them to heat. Not exactly efficient, but it works.
Resistor carts can be retrofitted with Solid State speed controllers, some people love resistor carts.

cmb7684 · 04-22-2012, 08:34 AM

I jumped off the key switch with a constant wire so it would have constant power running through the 2 wires that go to the switch. Now that I have done that I press the pedal and the machine doesnt move and there is no clicking sound.

What should I test first and how?

JohnnieB · 04-22-2012, 09:43 AM

For starters, I'm not an advocate of using jumper wires on an arc welder in an explosive atmosphere.
(The battery pack has the capability of arc welding and the batteries give off Hydrogen and Oxygen.)
Also, Jack the rear wheels off the ground while working on cart, so it doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over you.

Key Switch ON, F/R switch in "F" and throttle pedal pushed. (Rear wheels lifted)

Normally, I'd attach the DVM negative test lead to B- and go looking for B+, but in this case the solenoid coil is in the middle of a series circuit rather than one end, so just measure across the various components.

If you measure B+ (Battery pack voltage) between C and NC on MS-3 or MS-2, or between the two terminals on the key switch, or the two small terminals (coil) on the solenoid, it is bad.

If they are all okay, measure across the wires connecting them together.

There is an open there someplace or the solenoid would be clicking.

cmb7684 · 04-22-2012, 11:09 AM

The cart os strapped to a utility trailer but I will be sure we put in on a block. He is cleaning up all cpnnections to make sure we arent having a corrosion issue. After closer look we have a few wires that are not going to anything that may or may not be an issue. I will post pics showing them. I think we may be having a solenoid issue but I will have him test to be sure when he comes back.

Here are the pics of the wires without a home.

cmb7684 · 04-22-2012, 11:12 AM

Here are 5.

04-20-2012, 09:49 PM	#1
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12	1989 EZGO Marathon wiring I was hoping to find a specific wiring diagram for this cart. I found a thread here with a 1990 Marathon but not sure if they are the same? I'm helping a buddy with his cart and know nothing about them. This is my first time ever peeking inside one but I'm willing to give it a try. The cart has had several previous owners who added lights etc. When comparing the wires on the 89 to the ones shown in the 90 the lay out of the controller, solenoid and batteries seem the same but the wiring appears different which may be why my buddy's isnt working. My buddy got the cart for free from his cousin. His cousin said that it was working but the batteries went dead so it sat up for a little while. My buddy bought new batteries and we are getting 38 volts at the end of the series. I don't want to disassemble the existing wiring without being sure I cant get back to it. What are my best options? Right now I turn the key and get nothing.
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12

04-21-2012, 07:37 AM	#3
kernal Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Peachtree City, Ga. Posts: 2,759	Re: 1989 EZGO Marathon wiring The cart in the pictures is a "resister" cart. So, not solid state and no controller. If this is the cart you are trying to fix, look for wiring diagrams for resister carts in the stickies. Resister carts from '88-'92 and probably older should be wired vary similar if not identical as far as the main power delivery is concerned.

04-21-2012, 10:06 AM	#5
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12	Re: 1989 EZGO Marathon wiring Thank you for the respones. I will be with him tomorrow again working on it. I will track out the wiring tomorrow to make sure everything matches up to what is shown. I assume we may have the diagnostic guides for this "resistor cart" here on the site so I will dig around some to seewhat comes up. Like I said I'm 100% new to this so you have to bear with me on the lingo I may get wrong lol. As far as clicking when the pedal is pushed I think that is where we made of first mistake. I was treating the cart like acar motor with a starter when that is not the case. The key switch appears to be bad. I tried to jump it off by touching the wires together for a second like you would a car starter. After thinking about it last night I probably should have left the wires connected to run constant power when jumping off the key switch. Learning as I go here.
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12

04-21-2012, 10:28 AM	#6
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: 1989 EZGO Marathon wiring There are two main circuits. First is the low current solenoid activation circuit. The contacts in the Key switch and two microswitches have to closed for current to flow through the solenoid coil. Once the solenoid 's contacts close, high current can flow in the motor drive circuit. Depending how far the throttle pedal is pushed down, the battery pack is either connected to the motor through some coils of wire (resistors) or connected to it directly. In anything other than the pedal flat on the floor, the resistors limit the Amps the motor can draw and convert them to heat. Not exactly efficient, but it works. Resistor carts can be retrofitted with Solid State speed controllers, some people love resistor carts.

04-22-2012, 08:34 AM	#7
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12	Re: 1989 EZGO Marathon wiring I jumped off the key switch with a constant wire so it would have constant power running through the 2 wires that go to the switch. Now that I have done that I press the pedal and the machine doesnt move and there is no clicking sound. What should I test first and how?
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12

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04-22-2012, 09:43 AM	#8
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: 1989 EZGO Marathon wiring For starters, I'm not an advocate of using jumper wires on an arc welder in an explosive atmosphere. (The battery pack has the capability of arc welding and the batteries give off Hydrogen and Oxygen.) Also, Jack the rear wheels off the ground while working on cart, so it doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over you. Key Switch ON, F/R switch in "F" and throttle pedal pushed. (Rear wheels lifted) Normally, I'd attach the DVM negative test lead to B- and go looking for B+, but in this case the solenoid coil is in the middle of a series circuit rather than one end, so just measure across the various components. If you measure B+ (Battery pack voltage) between C and NC on MS-3 or MS-2, or between the two terminals on the key switch, or the two small terminals (coil) on the solenoid, it is bad. If they are all okay, measure across the wires connecting them together. There is an open there someplace or the solenoid would be clicking.

04-22-2012, 11:09 AM	#9
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12	Re: 1989 EZGO Marathon wiring The cart os strapped to a utility trailer but I will be sure we put in on a block. He is cleaning up all cpnnections to make sure we arent having a corrosion issue. After closer look we have a few wires that are not going to anything that may or may not be an issue. I will post pics showing them. I think we may be having a solenoid issue but I will have him test to be sure when he comes back. Here are the pics of the wires without a home.
cmb7684 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 12

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