EZ-GO No go...PDS

daytrepper

Hello all. I am hoping you can point me in the right direction here.

I have a 2002 (ish) EZ-Go TXT cart here that belongs to a buddy's parents. From reading info here on the forum I have determined it is a PDS Regen cart. Thanks for the service manual link too, it has been a great help so far.

A little background...the cart has been at a local cart "repair shop" for the past month or so, and my friends' parents have gotten frustrated that they havent been able to fix it, so they brought it to me. I have about 12 years experience in the automotive field, but mess with just about everything. I have messed with (and successfully fixed) electric carts before, but not quite as sophisticated as this one.

Here is what happened before I got the cart. Batteries and cables were replaced. PDS controller and solenoid are brand new.

The cart does nothing. Reverse beeper comes on when switched to reverse, that is about it. Solenoid does not click when the pedal is pressed.

I basically followed the troubleshooting steps in the service manual. Found the keyswitch inoperative. (Open continuity in both on and off) Replaced it. Nothing. Everything checked out according to troubleshooting up to the motor. Pulled the motor off, it was trashed inside. Replaced the motor. Still the same result. Does nothing.

Long story short, followed the troubleshooting again. Still says bad motor. Cant be. Tells me there should be voltage coming out between F1 and F2 on the controller, there is none. If there is none, check wires, still none, replace motor. (verified wires are good)....

So, I started doing the individual tests on the components and found the ITS sensor voltage incorrect (14.4v to the white wire, zero out the other side with the pedal to the floor)...but the service manual is quite vague as far as how this thing operates, what the controller needs to see to activate things, etc...checked continuity thru the ITS, shows open. Took the solenoid off and bench tested it. Works fine. Checked continuity of the F/R switch. All good. Microswitch on the pedal is good. Run/Tow/maintenance switch is good.

I also noticed a resistor is missing from the solenoid, is this resistor completely necessary? From reading online I have seen mixed opinions on this.

I have ordered an ITS sensor. Hoping this is the issue, but reading the manual I seem to think the solenoid should still operate even if the ITS is bad, and it does not. Any thoughts, opinions? Your help is greatly appreciated...they are really missing their golf cart.

BGW

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COURTESYCART

i have seen it a few times to where the motor blew and took out the controller.

have you put the car in diag mode to see what faults are present? it tells you how on the bottom of the controller cover.

daytrepper

I did. I didnt get any codes. Just the single "confimation beep" after doing the dance with the switch.

Just for the heck of it I unplugged the ITS unit and ran the diag again, got a code for it. Makes me think the controller is ok, but never know, if its a single driver that is bad.

scottyb

Start on the solenoid activation circuit. Understand you need a + and - present at the small terminals to activate the solenoid and find why you don't have that. Remove the diode and resistor from the solenoid for testing. Replace them both after we get this sukker running. Here is the diagram you need .

Start at the charge receptacle and then follow power to the F&R micro switches then to the key and peddle box micro... If you do this you will get the solenoid to activate and the cart to run.

Attached Images

Ezgo PDS solenoid activation diagram.jpg (142.4 KB, 0 views)

daytrepper

Thanks for the info. I have voltage at the yellow + wire on the solenoid, but no ground. If I go straight to battery - I have it on the blue wire as well, which is weird, but if I go between the two solenoid terminals, nothing. Good power but no ground at the solenoid terms. I jumped the blue wire to ground and got the solenoid to operate. Pedal micro switch is good. Will check out the reed switch in the charge port.

For the record, there is no resistor connected to the solenoid, nor a diode. Wondering if these are necessary, the "repair shop" may have removed them, according to the cart owners. Have read varying opinions on the internet.

scottyb

Resistor and diode not needed for testing but needed for operation on most controllers.
Check the blue wire's negative source at the controller... Controller may have failed.

yurtle

One thing to try is to pull, clean and test all MOLEX plugs.

I don't have a PDS, but my '98 Series had an intermittent problem in the ITS/micro MOLEX plug, that would allow the solenoid to pull in, but not respond to pedal.

Bench testing of individual components won't identify problems with wiring or plugs.

daytrepper

How does the controller operate the solenoid? Does it supply power anytime the key/F-R sw is on, and ground the blue wire to operate it, or vise versa?

Checked the reed switch circuit, it is good as well. Hoping the old motor did not take out the controller.

JohnnieB

You've mentioned "Ground" a couple times. There is no ground, it is either B+ or B-.
If you are just referring to B- as ground, okay, but if you are trying to get a return path to the battery via the frame, it doesn't exist, or at least it shouldn't.

The controller activates the solenoid by placing B- on J1Pin-6 (Blue wire)
Except when the Run/Tow switch is in the Tow position, the controller can activate the solenoid.
Key ON, F/R switch in either F or R and the throttle pressed is but one of the four conditions that the controller will activate the solenoid.
(The other three are associated with regen braking - Walk-away safety, regen braking in the two "Hill" PDS modes and max downhill speed limiting.)

Lift rear wheels off ground and put cart on jackstands so it doesn't unexpectedly take off and run over someone or something.

With Run/Tow = Run, Key = ON and F/R = F
The following pins on J1 should measure B+ with J1 plug attached to controller.
(Measure voltage on wires through backside of plug.)
J1 Pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 & 9.

If you get that, push throttle pedal and you should measure B+ on J4 Pins 1 & 2.

Also, what is the battery pack voltage?
It ought to be 38.2V or so, or the plates of those new batteries are sulfating as we speak.

Note: If the Run/Tow switch was not placed into Tow before connecting/disconnecting wires, that could have taken out the controller.

daytrepper

Thanks. I was referring to B- as ground. Batteries were right about 36.6-36.8 volts. I'll do those checks. I didnt disconnect anything with it in RUN position, not sure if the previous mechanic did or not.