2000 ezgo series cart won't move

Big matt

I have a 2000 ezgo cart that is clicking but will not move. I noticed on that the f/r switch was hot the last time I used cart. Replaced the switch and a cable that had gotten hot and some what melted it. Now I'm not sure where to go next. Any help would be appreciated.

BGW

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scottyb

Hello Big Matt, I have seen a lot of those just like that.
You need a complete F&R and a heavier set of cables throughout the cart. Likely you are not using your cart for golf ... it may even be modified with taller tires or rear sear for extra cargo or passengers. Even if you are just using a stock cart in a non stock (golf course) Application, you may need to upgrade the amperage delivery system to your motor to keep from melting the individual components. Unfortunately once the studs get real hot they melt the plastic housing and the stud sinks or leans in the housing & that compromises the contacts altogether.

Carts unlimited offers a custom HD rotary F&R switch for your cart and a HD switch cam as a preemptive upgrade. Here > http://cartsunlimited.net/F_R_Switch_Upgrades.html

Big matt

I have already up graded the wires to 4g and just installed another stock f/r switch to the cart today. Cart still will not move at all but I can hear the solenoid or controller clicking when a depress the pedal. Do u still think that the f/r switch needs to upgraded to now I can't return because it's been installed. Thanks for info Scottyb. I will check out carts unlimited next time.

yurtle

I have a 1998 TXT series that was stock at the time I killed two solenoids. I was driving around my neighborhood, which has steeper hills than a golf course, with just one passenger.

Scotty's right. if you have a rear seat, bigger tires, or like in my case, just driving a long time with one passenger and more than moderate hills, you can over power the stock system.

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scottyb

If the solenoid is clicking then the solenoid activation circuit is good...... next test that the voltage is getting to the controller, 36v between the B- and B+ on the control when the gas peddle is pressed and solenoid clicks.

If yes check controller output; test leads on controller B- and M-, 36v when the solenoid just clicks and decreasing voltage as the peddle is depressed. If yes the controller is working. Look for a cable or motor problem.
A battery could be dropping out under load? Connect the meter to the pack and observe voltage reading when you press peddle and try to go.

Sorry you didn't find us first. You can still put our HD switch cam into the stock F&R before you start burning the new switch up again. Scotty

Big matt

Scottyb I did first test and it stayed at 38.2 volts. Did second test it started at about 38 then it dropped like u said. Not sure what u mean by test the pack but I put the meter on +&- of batteries and when I depressed pedal it stayed at 38.5. Checked each battery and 4 were at 6.5 roughly but had 2 at 6.0 not sure how much of a difference that would make. I will call and order part to up grade switch when I find out what else is wrong so I can get all at one time. Thanks for your help.

scottyb

It sounds like your controller is working... Is the solenoid working (clicking) each time you press the peddle? Try this continuity test on the F&R studs... after this it's wire chasing or motor connections?

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Big matt

Thanks for the help again Scottyb. I did the test and it is giving me .4. All wires seem to be ok and connection are all tight. I had checked wires and connections earlier. Not sure what to do from here but maybe take it to a shop and see if they can tell me if motor is bad. 😁