95 medalist fnr conversion?

Shady Golfer

I got a schematic for an F-n-R conversion from ez go, it shows how to convert the chrome and yellow switch to the pds rocker switch. I installed it and nothing started troubleshooting from the pdf file on the sticky here, got to the diode and apparently it is bad. I have current going both directions. would this cause the cart not to run? am I looking at a bad solenoid to? also, no click to solenoid

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

scottyb

Yes. the diode has failed. Replace it.

Shady Golfer

Well, replaced the $50 diode/resistor assembly and nothing....no click or nothing from solenoid, metered the wires on the controller and no voltage there, am I needing an ITS or a controller? UGGGHH!

scottyb

I'm confused are we working on the solenoid or the F&R or both LOL?
Is this a DCS cart?
Did it run before ?
Does the solenoid click when you try to go?
Can you check for 36v at the the 2 small terminals on the solenoid when you try to go?
A bad diode will often smoke the peddle micro switch in an Ezgo, this will keep the solenoid from Clicking. (closing)
Any pics or diagrams of what you are working with or on? That may help us understand what you are trying to do....I would like to see this schematic for an F-n-R conversion from ez go

Shady Golfer

SKMBT_C35312061213210.pdf I hope this works, it'll be upside down

Shady Golfer

The guy I bought ti from riged the fnr switch because it broke, he said it got hot and he shut it down, and didn't mess with it until i bought it, I didn't do anything but put it the new fnr switch per schematic and put in a new resistor/diode assy, I checked for the 36 volts on small terminals and got 0 volts. also checked voltage on power at the fnr sw and got 0.3 volts

JohnnieB

The jumper wire on the schematic you posted a link to, will put cart in Reverse 100% of the time.
I rotated the schematic, blew it up a bit, converted to a JPEG and here it is. The jumper wire I'm speaking of is circled in red on the schematic.

If you do not have B+ at the common terminal (labeled "power" on schematic) on the new F/R switch (PDS type), the Reed switch is bad, or the Run/Tow is either bad or in Tow position, or the wires/connections to them are bad.

The Resistor/Diode assembly is not in the solenoid activation circuit, so replacing it may have been premature.

The Reverse Diode (Part of original F/R switch) may appear to be shorted because the jumper wire (circled in red on schematic) bypasses it electrically.

Get rid of the jumper wire and get B+ to the Common terminal of the new F/R switch and then see if solenoid clicks.

Attached Images

DCS to PDS F-n-R switch- with jumper.JPG (123.2 KB, 0 views)

scottyb

I have not had time to look at the diagram but I'm certain Johnnie's assessment is correct....You need to get power to the solenoid activation circuit. Follow this diagram starting at the charge receptacle (or battery main + if receptacle has been bypassed)

Attached Images

	Ezgo Series solenoid activation diagram.jpg (107.9 KB, 0 views)
	Resistor & Diode instruction01.jpg (188.0 KB, 0 views)

Shady Golfer

Thanks Johnnie, i figured that is what would happen with the jumper being hooked up like that, took out the "jumper" wire and still no click, What is the reed switch? this is a brand new FnR switch

Shady Golfer

Scotty, the diagram you show looks like a series, this is a DCS cart, although i did find the small terminal wires were on the wrong post swapped them still nothing, now i did meter the wires to the on off switch and there's no volts at all on it????