Solenoid Clicks but cart doesn't go...

golfcart2

I have 1996 ezgo txt cart. The cart is lifted and has 20 inch tires on it. one day while riding around the neighborhood I smelt a burning smell coming from under the seat. I decided to push on and try to get back to my house to fix the problem. Well the cart died before i could get back. I opened up the seat and noticed that one of the cables had burnt/ melted its way off one of the post on the F&R switch. This wasn't the first time it had happened and usually I just go get a new connector and put it back on, but I had finally had enough and decided to replace the F&R switch and replace all the cables hoping that this would solve my problem. Well after installing the new F&R switch and new 6GA cables the cart jumped a few times only moving a few inches, but now the cart only clicks, and doesn't move at all. Ive gone through every singe connection making shure it is tight, and still no power. The batteries are brand new and have full power to all of them. I have bought a new solenoid that I will be installing tomorrow but if it doesnt work after that Im out of options... Any suggestions?? I need my cart for the fourth of july.

Thanks

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

JohnnieB

If the solenoid is clicking every time pedal is pushed, the problem is in the high current circuit.
Here is a schematic with high current circuit traced.

The first thing I would do is charge the batteries. I'd do it for two reasons.
First, you said you installed new cables and if battery charger works normally, they are most likely installed correctly.
Second, setting in a partially discharged condition is hazardous to your batteries' health.

Next I'd check voltage on controller side of solenoid's main terminals. Should be full battery pack voltage after solenoid clicks.

If that is correct, I'd measure the voltage between B- and M- terminals on controller. When pedal pushed only far enough for solenoid to click, you should get full battery pack voltage and the voltage should decrease to nearly zero as pedal is pushed to floor.

If you don't get full pack voltage (should be 38.2V for a fully charged pack) when solenoid first clicks, start tracing circuit back towards solenoid contacts. A1, A2, F/R-C, F/R-B, S1, S2, F/R-D, F/R-A, Etc.

When you find B+, the last test point where it wasn't found, is where the problem is.

Hope this helps.

Attached Images

Wiring Diagram - Series- Hi-Current traced.JPG (59.3 KB, 0 views)

golfcart2

Thank you for the tips... My golf cart is at my lake house and I will be going up there tomorrow to test this. I will get back to you with the results! Thanks very much.

golfcart2

Also the back up beeper isn't working... Could this be the cause of all my problems? Where is the beeper located?

JohnnieB

1. No. A symptom perhaps, but not the root cause.
2. On the F/R assembly.

If it didn't work before the F/R was changed, the previous owner probably disconnected or removed it.

If it used to work, but doesn't now. MS-4 is bad/miswired or the F/R cam isn't rotating to correct positions for F and R.

If your solenoid is activating when the pedal is pushed, you've either got an open in the high current circuit or the controller is bad.
Get that fixed and then troubleshoot the beeper.

bslsdl

Hi Guys,
I have same issue with ezgo txt 2001. I have full voltage across B- and M- but no voltage drop when peddle is pressed. thx

scottyb

Lots of possibles - we'd be glad to help if you could start your own thread. Otherwise it gets too confusing and unfair to the original poster here. Welcome to BGW.