melted battery and hot wires

n2mudn

i have a 2004 ezgo txt pds 36 volt. i bought it about 2 mths ago. the guy i bought it from said he put 6 new trojan batteries in it. just today it stopped running. so i checked it ou.t i found the lead coming from the control box had melted the negative post of the first battery. so i went out and bought a new battery. before i took it for a run after replacing the melted battery i checked out this forum and many more. the better part of the info i found was all leading to a bad connection. i removed all of the battery lead wired. cleaned them and reinstalled them using dielectric grease. took for a run afterwards and noticed both wires coming from the control box was very hot. the negative lead more than the positive.

BGW

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JohnnieB

The same amount of current flows in both cables, so the negative cable and connectors have more resistance than the positive cable and connectors.

Because the stock cable lugs are the open type, the cable strands themselves are exposed to the acid-laden air in the battery compartment and corrode internally, so the unacceptably high resistance may be withing the cable itself and invisible to visual inspection.

My cables looked good, but I got a noticeable improvement in low end performance when I replaced all 10 high current cables with 2Ga with closed end lugs that were silver soldered on and the gap between the insulation and lug sealed airtight. Of course, there wasn't any change in top speed since the PDS controller limits max motor RPM.

If I'm deciphering your username correctly, a PDS might not be the best platform for Muddin'

Don't get me wrong, I love my PDS, but I limit my off-roading to cross country instead of driving through bogs.

Unless you are planning on upgrading to a 500A or higher controller, 4Ga will probably suffice, but 2Ga is only a few dollars more.

n2mudn

Good eye for my user name. But I use that user name on a lot of things. I'm n2 mudn 4 wheelers and trucks not golf carts. Lol. The cart is something to have fun with around the gravel road on r lake and camp ground. But back to the problem at hand. I think I'm going to upgrade to 2g wire and use closed end cooper terminals and use heat shrink on the ends. I'm also going to Chang my battery screws to lock nuts. Not Nylon lock nuts but regular lock nuts. Thanks for the quick response. This is my first cart. I have learned a lot from this forum just by reading other threads. I'm glad I joined.

JohnnieB

Since your application roughly approximates the cart trails at a golf course, 4 Ga will probably suffice, unless you're an efficiency nut like me.

I got mine from scottyb at Carts Unlimited.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Batter..._Upgrades.html

As for lock nuts on the battery studs, use Stainless Steel.
Be careful about over-tightening. The stud is actually just a SS bolt with the hex-head embedded in the lead post.
Torque spec is only 95-105 in/lb (about 9 ft/lb).
I use a screw driver handle 1/4" drive, so I don't absentmindedly put too much muscle on them.

n2mudn

Up graded cables. Wires aren't even warm anymore

rib33024

that's good, every things cool, have fun with it

dagrad

We have the same cart buddy. Funny...we had the same problem. I upgraded mine to 2 gauge and that problem is history. I didn't replace the one melted battery though. Found out that since my battery doesn't leak (top mount) I was allowed to simply drill and bolt on another terminal.

Also added 2 more batteries, so I am at 48v. 48v on board genius charger. 400 alltrax controller, HD solenoid...and anxiously awaiting my plum quick motor upgrade. ready to speed off to the DMV and get my cart street legal.

Osborne

Same boat here and melt a hole threw the battery today, all cables where tight.

n2mudn

After really looking mine over. I had noticed that the previous owner of my cart had up graded to 4 gauge wire already. I had notice that the original wire coming from the controller was still 8-10gauge wire. I also noticed quite a bit of corrosion on my negative lead, connecting to the battery. I remover my controller cover and found that all of the wire was all small gauge. So a few feet of 4 gauge wire, 6.00 worth of copper lugs, some dielectric grease, and some heat shrink and I have this problem no more. It's not even warm. I also disconnected every battery terminal wire. Caked on the dielectric grease. And used locking nuts to resecure wire(like the good advice from JohnnieB said not to over tighten) and I was in business hope this helps you with yours. Oh also u might want to check to make sure none of ur batteries have not even one dead cell. Have each battery tested individually. All of these helpful tips was found wright here in this forum. Said it once I'll say it again. I'm glad I joined