EZ-GO Model K1797 Dead

gwar28

Ok I am new to the world of Golf carts..... My in laws have an Ez-go that has quit working. It worked fine then quit. I checked all the battery cables and all of them seem good. How much is a controller to replace and how hard is it. I have worked on cars for years so I am relatively mechanically smart. If anyone could give some Ideas that would be great. The S/N is 10531XX and Man. Code is K1797.

(Unrelated)
Also, we have a Melex from the 70's that needs a new front strut. Does anyone know where I could get one? How much would it cost do get one custom made?

Thanks
Mark

BGW

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rusty

Welcome to the forum gwar28........................

The Melex...... are you talking about the windshield strut?

The E-Z-GO....... We have learned that when sombody says the battery cables "seemed ok", we have learned that if they take each one of them off and brush them clean with a steel brush, and connect them back to their places on the batteries, that the cart "Usually" and magicly runs again. If it doesn't run, you and us can confidently rule that out and know it is good and move on to something else.

If you read through the other posts, you will probably educate yourself very well in the operation and maintenance of the golf cart.

Now....... Do you hear the solenoid click when you pres the go pedal with the key on?

Do you hear the reverse buzzer when you put it in reverse?

No?

You need to clean the cables connections.

gwar28

Ok I cleaned all the cables with a wire brush and some baking soda. When I press the gas I hear the click so I am trying to charge it just to double check.


On the melex it is the front strut that is directly under where a windshield would go.


Thanks

Mark

gwar28

I cleaned all the cables with a wire brush and baking soda. I hear a click when I hit the gas pedal. I have it on the charger right now just to make sure I am not an idiot.


The melex needs the front strut underneath where the windshield would be(if it had one).

Thanks

rusty

Ok Mark....... good deal on cleaning and charging. Sounds like progress in the making. A full charge on the batteries will tell a lot more too.

Since you are new to golf carts, I should mention that if your charger is an AUTOMATIC charger, it will automatically shut off when it needs to, which is typically 8 to 12 hours.

If it is a "timer" or "timed" charger, it needs to charge for about the same time or untill the ammeter falls to or near zero.

Melex...... Actually what I was referring to was the "top struts". These are the posts that hold up the top on the cart. I'm thinking that you are talking about front end parts as in running gear? I didn't know Melex's had struts there if thats what you mean, and I would not be of any help in that area.

If it were to be the "Top Struts" you can substitute about anything from E-Z-GO struts to making your own out of square tubing.

gwar28

It has been on the charger for a while now. Nothing. I hear the click but nothing further. Is there an electrical test I can do on the selenoid (sp?)? Or the computer? Any ideas?

rusty

Solenoid test....... Jumper a large wire from one of the large posts on the solenoid to the other large post. Press the accelerator pedal at the same time to see if the cart moves. The key may need to be on too. If it does move, you've got a bad solenoid.

roady89

If the solenoid test fails there are a couple of other things you can check:

1. You have to verify ALL of your cables are making a good connection. We can't stress this enough. Give all your cables a good tug. This includes ones on the motor, F/R switch and controller.
2. Check for any control wiring breaks. A volt/ohm meter comes in handy for this. (control wiring will be the small wires....."control wires")
3. Check the microswitches. Just because they click doesn't mean they are good. Again, a volt/ohm metr comes in handy.

pggroves

Some more unsolicited advice/questions.

Do you have a Run/Tow switch on the controller cover?
Is the FNR switch below right knee?

If, yes, you have a DCS cart and I may have a troubleshooting guide for the DCS.
If, no, you have a fleet non-DCS.

The DCS system cart was unique in a how they handle reverse.

After charging, get the voltage from the battery pack. Trace the cables from the charging outlet to the main positive and negative of the battery pack and put the black test lead on negative and the red test lead on positive with your meter set to DC Volts, 50 volt range. On a freshly charged 36v pack you should read over 38 volts. This will determine battery health. It would be even better to record individual battery voltages as well as total.

I'm sure there will be more questions from you and everyone trying to get you rolling again. And FWIW, rusty and roady are spot on. In general, cables/wires and their condition account for a lot of problems solved. Think of the wires and cables as the "veins and arteries" of an electric cart!!

gwar28

Well I fixed a wire had come loose and disconnected. It was underneath a protective cover by where the fnr connects in the battery compartment.


Thanks for all of your help.

The melex part I need looks like a car leaf spring but goes perpendicular to the rear ones.