I think my controller is shot

Ky81538 · 08-26-2012, 01:19 PM

I suspect my controller is shot and need some confirmation before I spend the $$$.

My cart info:
1999 EZGO TXT Standard, 36V (NON-DCS)
Manf code: J599
Serial # 1214639
It has a controller with a 6 pin connector(4 wires are used).
No run/tow switch
Troubleshooting:
Reference voltage is 37.7
Solenoid clicks when pedal pressed.
No reference voltage between controller B+ and M-(key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed)
No referance voltage between battery pack B- and controller pin 4(red) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed)
Ref voltage present between Battery B- and pedal box 4 pin connector harness (red wire) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed)
Confirmed continuity thru all pins on the pedal box connector harness. Disassembled and verified pin integrity on controller connector.
Got 13.9V between controller B- and pin 2. (key on, FNR on F, pedal pressed just until solenoid clicks). Service manual says range should be between 9.0 and 11.5 volts.
ITS measures about .5V when solenoid clicks, and goes up to about 1.6V when pedal is fully pressed. Pedal box microswitch is okay.

IF the controller needs replacement, any ideas on where to buy one from? shopEZGO.com gets $459 for theirs.

JohnnieB · 08-26-2012, 02:00 PM

Troubleshooting:
Reference voltage is 37.7 High enough for troubleshooting, but charge the batteries - the plates are sulfating as we speak.

Solenoid clicks when pedal pressed. Good
No reference voltage between controller B+ and M-(key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) You won't see any voltage unless controller is turned on - I prefer measuring between M- and B- for that reason.
No referance voltage between battery pack B- and controller pin 4(red) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) Without voltage there, the controller isn't turned on - Fix/replace the red wire between Pin-4 and the Solenoid coil terminal - if solenoid is clicking, you've got voltage at the other end of the red wire.
Ref voltage present between Battery B- and pedal box 4 pin connector harness (red wire) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed)
Confirmed continuity thru all pins on the pedal box connector harness. Disassembled and verified pin integrity on controller connector.
Got 13.9V between controller B- and pin 2. (key on, FNR on F, pedal pressed just until solenoid clicks). Service manual says range should be between 9.0 and 11.5 volts. This might be off a bit since controller isn't turned on.
ITS measures about .5V when solenoid clicks, and goes up to about 1.6V when pedal is fully pressed. Pedal box microswitch is okay. This is in normal range.

Fix the wire to controller Pin-4 and retest.
If the controller is bad, I'd replace it with an aftermarket one.
Be sure to upgrade solenoid, cables and F/R switch to handle the higher current.

Ky81538 · 08-26-2012, 03:44 PM

Thanks much for the prompt reply.
Okay, I am getting the ref voltage between M- and B-. I have removed checked and ohmed out the red wire running from controller pin4 to the solenoid and it is perfectly fine. so does that mean the controller is shot?

JohnnieB · 08-26-2012, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ky81538

Thanks much for the prompt reply.
Okay, I am getting the ref voltage between M- and B-. I have removed checked and ohmed out the red wire running from controller pin4 to the solenoid and it is perfectly fine. so does that mean the controller is shot?

The key question at this point is: Are you getting B+ (battery pack voltage) on Pin-4?
If not, figure out why not.
If you are, the controller could very well be bad.

If:
You've got full Battery pack voltage between B- and M-
The controller is turned on. (Battery pack voltage on Pin-4)
The ITS is putting out somewhere in the general vicinity of 0.5V when the solenoid first clicks and 1.5V with pedal down.
The controller is being told to pass amps to the motor.

If it isn't, it is bad.

Ky81538 · 09-01-2012, 07:46 AM

Thanks for your help JohnnieB,
I'd also like to feed 36V directly to the motor to verify that the motor, differential, etc are okay. Four terminals to the motor, S1,S2,A1,A2. Which do I connect the 36V to?

Thanks,
Kyle

scottyb · 09-01-2012, 08:04 AM

Try this.

I use a type of battery disconnect for the final connection... If you make this connection at a motor terminal or battery there will be sparks which can damage terminal threads or spark a battery gas explosion.

Ky81538 · 09-01-2012, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottyb

Try this.

I use a type of battery disconnect for the final connection... If you make this connection at a motor terminal or battery there will be sparks which can damage terminal threads or spark a battery gas explosion.

Awesome diagram scotty. What gauge wire is that, and where did you get a switch like that?

JohnnieB · 09-01-2012, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ky81538

Awesome diagram scotty. What gauge wire is that, and where did you get a switch like that?

Whatever is on cart, 6Ga or higher.

Google "Battery Disconnect Switch"

I found this: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...tch-66789.html

Ky81538 · 09-02-2012, 02:45 PM

Okay I am getting ready to test the motor, but I am unable to locate any terminals labeled LR1 and LR2. Are there the ones shown in the picture?

simple man · 09-02-2012, 03:32 PM

I can't see all of your id tag, but that looks like an " advanced " series motor and will not have the LR1 and LR2 terminals.

Hook up as in the diagram with the A1-A2-S1-S2 terminals. :)
I would also suggest you only using 12V to do this test! 36V will be full power, and the cart could get away from you! :)

08-26-2012, 01:19 PM	#1
Ky81538 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 41	I think my controller is shot I suspect my controller is shot and need some confirmation before I spend the $$$. My cart info: 1999 EZGO TXT Standard, 36V (NON-DCS) Manf code: J599 Serial # 1214639 It has a controller with a 6 pin connector(4 wires are used). No run/tow switch Troubleshooting: Reference voltage is 37.7 Solenoid clicks when pedal pressed. No reference voltage between controller B+ and M-(key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) No referance voltage between battery pack B- and controller pin 4(red) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) Ref voltage present between Battery B- and pedal box 4 pin connector harness (red wire) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) Confirmed continuity thru all pins on the pedal box connector harness. Disassembled and verified pin integrity on controller connector. Got 13.9V between controller B- and pin 2. (key on, FNR on F, pedal pressed just until solenoid clicks). Service manual says range should be between 9.0 and 11.5 volts. ITS measures about .5V when solenoid clicks, and goes up to about 1.6V when pedal is fully pressed. Pedal box microswitch is okay. IF the controller needs replacement, any ideas on where to buy one from? shopEZGO.com gets $459 for theirs.

08-26-2012, 02:00 PM	#2
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: I think my controller is shot Troubleshooting: Reference voltage is 37.7 High enough for troubleshooting, but charge the batteries - the plates are sulfating as we speak. Solenoid clicks when pedal pressed. Good No reference voltage between controller B+ and M-(key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) You won't see any voltage unless controller is turned on - I prefer measuring between M- and B- for that reason. No referance voltage between battery pack B- and controller pin 4(red) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) Without voltage there, the controller isn't turned on - Fix/replace the red wire between Pin-4 and the Solenoid coil terminal - if solenoid is clicking, you've got voltage at the other end of the red wire. Ref voltage present between Battery B- and pedal box 4 pin connector harness (red wire) (key on, FNR on F, pedal fully pressed) Confirmed continuity thru all pins on the pedal box connector harness. Disassembled and verified pin integrity on controller connector. Got 13.9V between controller B- and pin 2. (key on, FNR on F, pedal pressed just until solenoid clicks). Service manual says range should be between 9.0 and 11.5 volts. This might be off a bit since controller isn't turned on. ITS measures about .5V when solenoid clicks, and goes up to about 1.6V when pedal is fully pressed. Pedal box microswitch is okay. This is in normal range. Fix the wire to controller Pin-4 and retest. If the controller is bad, I'd replace it with an aftermarket one. Be sure to upgrade solenoid, cables and F/R switch to handle the higher current.

08-26-2012, 03:44 PM	#3
Ky81538 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 41	Re: I think my controller is shot Thanks much for the prompt reply. Okay, I am getting the ref voltage between M- and B-. I have removed checked and ohmed out the red wire running from controller pin4 to the solenoid and it is perfectly fine. so does that mean the controller is shot?

09-01-2012, 07:46 AM	#5
Ky81538 Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 41	Re: I think my controller is shot Thanks for your help JohnnieB, I'd also like to feed 36V directly to the motor to verify that the motor, differential, etc are okay. Four terminals to the motor, S1,S2,A1,A2. Which do I connect the 36V to? Thanks, Kyle

09-02-2012, 03:32 PM	#10
simple man Gone Wild Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Bunnell, Florida Posts: 2,408	Re: I think my controller is shot I can't see all of your id tag, but that looks like an " advanced " series motor and will not have the LR1 and LR2 terminals. Hook up as in the diagram with the A1-A2-S1-S2 terminals. :) I would also suggest you only using 12V to do this test! 36V will be full power, and the cart could get away from you! :)

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