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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Unread 09-21-2012, 09:43 AM   #11
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Default Re: no f&r

Is this just a solenoid activation problem?
Have we bypassed the solenoid activation circuit to see if the solenoid activates & if so, does the cart run?
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Unread 09-21-2012, 12:09 PM   #12
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Default Re: no f&r

Thank you johnnie. i just put in run with f&r switch in netural position and key off and pushed cart forwards and reverse and had no beeper. i do know it worked before when up was in reverse. i also tried to push it a little with key on and still no beep
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Unread 09-21-2012, 03:41 PM   #13
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Default Re: no f&r

giving up for the day. retested all the connections and found the same results that get battery volts on the forward and reverse wires no matter which direction is selected. still cannot get reverse buzzer to come on.retested solinoid but i did replace it yesterday. did find that both big side post on solenoid shows to have battery volts all the time . i was thinking that it should only have voltage on both post when u select forward or reversw and voltage is applied to small front post to open solenoid but maybe i am wrong on that.
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Unread 09-22-2012, 05:36 AM   #14
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Default Re: no f&r

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
Is this just a solenoid activation problem?
Have we bypassed the solenoid activation circuit to see if the solenoid activates & if so, does the cart run?
It's a PDS controller. Having B+ on J1 Pin-7 indicates the solenoid activation circuit is armed and the solenoid coil is good. Hot wiring the solenoid might get the motor to spin, but if the solenoid activation part of the controller is bad, the whole controller has to be replaced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dklein6413 View Post
Thank you johnnie. i just put in run with f&r switch in netural position and key off and pushed cart forwards and reverse and had no beeper. i do know it worked before when up was in reverse. i also tried to push it a little with key on and still no beep
If the Run/Tow is in Run and throttle pedal is up, the beeper should beep when cart is moved.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dklein6413 View Post
giving up for the day. retested all the connections and found the same results that get battery volts on the forward and reverse wires no matter which direction is selected. still cannot get reverse buzzer to come on.retested solinoid but i did replace it yesterday. did find that both big side post on solenoid shows to have battery volts all the time . i was thinking that it should only have voltage on both post when u select forward or reversw and voltage is applied to small front post to open solenoid but maybe i am wrong on that.
There is a 250 Ohm resistor across the main terminals on the solenoid, so you will read full battery pack voltage on terminal that connects directly to battery and 3 to 5 volts less on the the terminal that connects to B+ terminal on the controller and A2 on motor.

If you remove the resistor, the solenoid's controller side main terminal will be dead until solenoid is activated. There are some filter caps in the controller and the resistor keeps them charged, so the solenoid contacts don't get arced as badly when they close. Resistor is not needed to run, just makes solenoid contacts last longer.

You've got how the solenoid works a little backwards, but you're close.

The solenoid's main contacts connect/disconnect the battery pack and are open unless the solenoid is activated.
Activating the solenoid is a two step process.
First you have to have B+ on one side of the solenoid coil and then you have to have B- on the other side of the coil.
B+ comes from J1 Pin-6 on the controller and certain conditions have to exist for the controller to put B+ on J1 Pin-6.
B- comes from J1 Pin-7 and other conditions have to be exist for controller to do so.

When you measure B+ at J1 Pin-7, we know that the solenoid is armed and the coil is good.
All that is needed at this point is for the throttle pedal microswitch to close and tell the controller to connect B- to J1 Pin-7

From the voltage readings you've provided, the controller is being told to activate the solenoid, but isn't, so the controller isn't doing what it has been told to do and is therefore, bad.
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Unread 10-05-2012, 12:48 PM   #15
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Default Re: no f&r

Johnnie you were correct .Got a chance to test somemore today and had to replace controller was bad. thank you. now i have to figure what the loud clicking or clunking noise is in rear. sounds like out of left rear wheel. removed wheel and drum but all looks fine. did notice some play in outter axle brg but not alot. problem is that wheel dont turn when jacked up so hard to tell .it dont do it with me turning the wheel by hand only when traveling with weight on ground
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