ezgo 2005 - new batteries, wont go

tguarino

Hey guys,

So i have been reading up on some of these boards, since I just replaced my burnt out batteries.

Last winter I left my batteries plugged in with my charger, and when i tried to use the cart this spring, the batteries were totally shot.

Anyway, I replaced all 6 battereries, checked my cables are all tight, and tested the pack with a needle voltmeter, which reads right at 36v.

When i hit the gas pedal, nothing happens. When I switch to reverse (switch on dash), I can hear the beep, but not near as loud as before. So I used the TroubleShooting instructions on that panel down by the batteries, seems the code comes back as 2beeps then 1beep which means low voltage...

Headlights work, radio works. So I decided to unhook all my extras, and put on the charger again. I came back in about an hour and charger was off, so tested again and pack is 36v.

So, in my research people talk about solenoids (not really sure what this is) and whether or not it clicks. I think I know what you are talking about, and I dont hear that.

Should I take it to a cart shop, or replace my own?

Anything else I can check before doing all that??

BGW

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sms-shop

Battery pack needs to be charged ... 36volt... Means the pack is dead...
Put on charger and let charge.... Should read 38.4 volts ...
Charge the batteries and when the charger stop wait 6 hours and read the pack voltage ...
That when you should get 38.4 volts or close to that..

scottyb

Check that the run/tow which you switched off before doing any electrical work is switched back on.

tguarino

Thanks for the tips,

I tested pack again, been off charger about 1 hour or so, and it showed 37, so perhaps its not charging all the way up. Wouldnt 37 at least make it go?

Its on charger again now, will let it run and check it in a few hours... Then recheck in the morning

tguarino

Went to check, charger turned off, tested battery pack, it looks like 37.5

Not sure I am ready to say the needed is 38.

Will check in the morning, should be about 7 hours...

PS I think I hear the click now, when you press the gas pedal, even though the cart doesnt move, i hear a clicking sound...

JohnnieB

Since you have new batteries, let's get them taken care of them first.
Here is a State of Charge vs Voltage chart.

The needle type (analog) VOM doesn't have the resolution to accurately determine the State of Charge of your battery pack, but an inexpensive DMM sold in a blister pack at an auto parts or discount store will do the job.

Sounds like you are having some charger/charging issues.
Which charger do you have?
If you can't find the Maker's name and model#, a picture of the faceplate will suffice.

How many amps does the charger's ammeter show when the charger first comes on?
How many amps after an hour or so on charge.
What is the on-charge battery pack voltage after an hour or so on charge?

37.5V is only about 80% charged, but that's enough to get the solenoid to click.
Is the clicking you hear coming from under the floorboard, or under the seat?

Here is a schematic for a PDS cart and a picture with the controller cover off.
The solenoid is the silver object mounted in front of the controller.

If the solenoid is clicking, the problem is in the High Current circuit.

Let us know if solenoid is clicking and we'll go from there.

As mentioned, put Run/Tow switch in Tow before disconnecting/reconnecting anything electrical, or you might blow the controller.

Attached Images

	StateofChargeChart.jpg (53.8 KB, 0 views)
	Wiring Diagram - PDS.JPG (64.6 KB, 0 views)
	Under Controller Cover 1200x800.jpg (90.7 KB, 0 views)

tguarino

Ok, got some more info.

Went and bought digital reader, much better :)

Pack reads 38.3 after about 12 hours of being "fully charged" (meaning the charger turned itself off)

When I plugged in charger just now, it started at 20, went down to 10 pretty fast, then down to 5 after a min or two. Now it is charging from 5 on down it seems.

The clicking is from the underneath the floorboard.

I am going to take cover off controller board area, and see what I can see, which update this thread in a bit after its been charging for an hour or so.

Oh, I have a powerwise charger, big black thing with gauge on front. 28115G04, if that means anything to anyone :_)

tguarino

after about 30 mins of charging, charger is down to like 2.5 to go

Took cover off, tried gas pedal again (charger not plugged in, not in tow) and hear the click around the gas pedal, but do not hear a click on the solenoid.

Can I test Solenoid somehow with my fancy tester :)

JohnnieB

Sound like your charger is working now.
It is a ferroresonant transformer type automatic charger. It is built like a tank and is 100% repairable, should it fail at some time in future.

If the clicking sound is coming from under floorboard, it is the Pedal microswitch located in a box under the floor.

Put rear of cart on jack-stands so it doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something.

Position controls as as follows:
Run/Tow = Run
Key = ON
F/R = F
Pedal pressed until pedal microswitch clicks.

With DVM negative test lead attached to main negative post of battery pack, you should have full battery pack voltage on following Pins on the controller with all plugs plugged in.

J1 Pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 & 9.
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4
J4 Pins 1& 2

If you don't have B+ on all the pins listed, put Run/Tow into Tow, pull the plugs and measure the various switches with your Ohmmeter.
Which switch connects to which pin is on schematic.

When we get the solenoid clicking (clunking) when it is supposed to, we'll check out the high current circuit.

tguarino

Ok,

Got some readings for you...

J1 Pins
1=38.3
3=38.3
4=38.3
5=2.5
7=38.3
8=38.3
9=38.3

J3 Pins
My wires were in this postion

Ong | Red
----------
Yel | Wht

Ong = 38.3
Red = 2.5
Wht = 2.5
Yel = 38.3


J4
1=38.3
2=38.3

Thanks for your help on this, must say I am learing quite a bit :) Never really used a voltmeter to do anything interesting :)