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Old 10-03-2012, 07:25 AM   #1
Motodad85
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Default need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

so I have read the EZGO diagnosis for electric carts, the system I have is not on here or I am just reading it wrong.
ck battery voltage --yes 39 Volts
ck at both ends of the solenoid's-voltage the same

Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

I put a new one on and the same readings, WHAT AM I MISSING?
THIS IS A TXT/PDS REGEN-R/F swith is on the dash and has the TOW/RUN swith on the controller cover.

any help is appreciated
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:03 AM   #2
kgsc
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

And the symtoms are ?? Click or no click, etc...
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:48 AM   #3
Motodad85
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

Solenoid does not click, has battery power to both big terminals of the solenoid, has battery power to each of the small terminals when switching the F/R switch, has a reverse beep when in Reverse, battery voltage shows 39 VOLTS. no voltage at the small terminals on the solenoid when the TOW/RUN switch is in the TOW position
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:11 AM   #4
JohnnieB
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodad85 View Post
Txtpds B2804
Only beeps with in reverse, no diagnostic beeps, solenoid does not click. 8
I went through the controller check until it said to install jumper wire between the 6 pin connector ( ldont have one) I think it is a 2008 it is a 36 volt.
Was running great backed it off the trailer and it just stopped. Diagnostic proceedure would be greatly appreciated.
We are outdoor MXer's and use it in the pits
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodad85 View Post
Found the diagnostic trouble shooting on the forum. I have 36V on both sides of the solenoid, says that it is defective. Right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodad85 View Post
so I have read the EZGO diagnosis for electric carts, the system I have is not on here or I am just reading it wrong.
ck battery voltage --yes 39 Volts
ck at both ends of the solenoid's-voltage the same

Place the (+) probe to the controller side of the solenoid's large post. The reading should be 0.1 to 3 volts less than battery voltage. If the reading is more than 3 volts less the battery voltage, the resistor is faulty. If the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, replace the solenoid.

I put a new one on and the same readings, WHAT AM I MISSING?
THIS IS A TXT/PDS REGEN-R/F swith is on the dash and has the TOW/RUN swith on the controller cover.

any help is appreciated
Welcome to BGW!
I brought the information from your other thread over so everybody is on same page.

The date code indicates it is a 2004 model year and F/R on dash with a Run/Tow switch indicates it is a PDS,
So you probably have a 2004 TXT PDS.
If you can find the serial number, this website will tell you what you have: http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

Looks like you are trying to troubleshoot a PDS cart using Series cart diagnostics.

Cart was running, but probably bounced some coming off trailer and now it won't run.
Reverse beeper sounds in Reverse, but solenoid doesn't click.

First step is to get solenoid to click, then we can troubleshoot high current circuit if need be.
(Voltage at big terminals on solenoid is part of high current circuit and more or less meaningless if solenoid isn't closing)

Cart might take off unexpectedly while troubleshooting, so lift rear wheel off ground so it doesn't run over someone or something.

Measure and note battery pack voltage (Should be 38.2V if fully charged)
Set controls as follows:
Charger unplugged from cart.
Run/Tow switch in Run position
Keyswitch = ON
F/R switch = F
Pedal pressed
Attach DVM negative test lead to main negative post on battery pack.

Measure voltages at the following pins on controller while the plugs are plugged into controller.
You should read full battery pack voltage on:
J1 Pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 & 9
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4
J4 Pins 1 & 2

If you are missing any of those voltages, trace the pin back to the switch it goes to and fix it.

Here is a schematic showing what pin goes to what switch.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Wiring Diagram - PDS.JPG (64.6 KB, 0 views)
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:58 AM   #5
Motodad85
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

WOW thanks, I will let you kow the findings
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:09 PM   #6
Motodad85
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

Johnnie B, Alll the terminals have power except J4 1, BUT wil slightly pressing on the accelerator it does, still not clicks HELP
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:22 PM   #7
Motodad85
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

Sorry Just saw the pedal pressed. let me recheck them all
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:10 PM   #8
Motodad85
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

ok All the pin Voltages Check out, Now what? is it the Controller? if it is I am wanting to lift it from what I have read on here there is a different controller that needs to be installed. Is that correct? if so and i install it , but not lift it, any harm?

Thanks again? if you need any help in Motocross or Dirt bikes let me know
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:51 PM   #9
Motodad85
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

I was looking at the wiring diagram and the procedures that you sent on terminal #7 (yellow) on the 10 pin connector I have 38.4 Volts, but I disconnected it from the solenoid and NO voltage at the commector, which means the Voltage is coming from the solenoid, blue wire #6 at the 10 pin connector which is a ground

there is no voltage on #2,(orange) also I have battery voltage on both the yellow and blue small wires at the solenoid,noted above, that does not seem right to me.

the green wire #3 has battery voltage in F and R 13V in "N"
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:15 AM   #10
JohnnieB
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Default Re: need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodad85 View Post
1. I was looking at the wiring diagram and the procedures that you sent on terminal #7 (yellow) on the 10 pin connector I have 38.4 Volts, but I disconnected it from the solenoid and NO voltage at the commector, which means the Voltage is coming from the solenoid, blue wire #6 at the 10 pin connector which is a ground

2. there is no voltage on #2,(orange)

3. also I have battery voltage on both the yellow and blue small wires at the solenoid,noted above, that does not seem right to me.

4. the green wire #3 has battery voltage in F and R 13V in "N"
1. J1 Pin-6 supplied B+ to the solenoid coil and J1 Pin-7 connects the other side of the coil to B- at the battery, completing the circuit. When the solenoid activation circuit is armed, but not triggered, you will measure B+ at Pin-7. However, when it is triggered, you shouldn't and if you had B+ on all the pins I listed, it was triggered, so the controller is most likely bad.

Incidentally, the solenoid coil is not polarized and the + & - labels associated with it on the schematic indicate the polarity of a diode that is sometimes added. It was needed to protect some microswitch contacts in other drive systems whose solenoid activation circuit was external to the controller.

Also, there is no ground in electric golf carts. Everything is a two wire system. Some people refer to B- as ground, which is fine as long as it is understood everything is two wires and nothing uses the frame or metal body parts as a return path.

2. That's normal. J1 Pin-1 supplies B+ to the F/R switch. When the F/R is in F, B+ will be sent to Pin-3. When F/R is in R, B= is sent to Pin-2

3. Explained in Answer #1

4. When the F/R isn't in F, you are measuring the open input to an OR gate with a high input impedance voltmeter, so you are measuring the leakage current between the base and collector of a transistor, or whatever they are using these days. Same is true with Pin-2 when F/R isn't in R.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Motodad85 View Post
ok All the pin Voltages Check out, Now what? is it the Controller? if it is I am wanting to lift it from what I have read on here there is a different controller that needs to be installed. Is that correct? if so and i install it , but not lift it, any harm?

Thanks again? if you need any help in Motocross or Dirt bikes let me know
If you have B+ on all the pins I list and the solenoid isn't activating, either the solenoid coil is open or the controller is bad.
You had B+ on Pin-7, so the solenoid coil is good and the means the controller is bad.

In and of itself, lifting a cart doesn't change the power requirements.
However, taller tires usually get put on lifted carts and it takes more amps to turn taller tires.

Something like a Alltrax DCX400PDS can boost your top speed to about 24MPH with stock height tires and increase torque by about 35%, but can be dialed back to more or less stock performance until you lift cart and put on taller tires. You will also need to upgrade your high current cables (all 10 of them) to at least 4Ga and upgrade the solenoid to handle the higher amps.

The performance you can get out of a PDS cart is basically limited by your wallet and your personal pucker factor.
Some of the speed demons in this looney bin we call a forum are getting 40MPH, but have modified the suspension and brakes to handle that speed safely.

Contact any of the site sponsors and they will fix you up with what you need, but here are some packaged controller/solenoid deals that play well together.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html
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