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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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10-07-2012, 03:29 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 5
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94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
I was testing the ITS using a test from this forum and when I jumped the solenoid and pressed the accelerator the cart will go. The solenoid will click when jumped from battery + to the small terminal with the two red wires, it seems to work normally like this. When the cart quit I was bouncing a bit and during the recovery I pressed the accelerator and it would go just once like a loose connection. I have tested continuity to the pedal switch wiring I am just over looking something simple so I am asking for some help. Thank you.
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10-07-2012, 04:40 PM | #2 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,356
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
Either a loose wire or a pinched wire? Do your batteries bounce around? Follow the + power in red for the solenoid activation circuit here and see where it stops. Sounds like it should be an easy fix. Good Luck
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10-07-2012, 06:55 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 5
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
I have done my best to trace the wires, the batteries do not bounce they have functioning hold downs. I appreciate the diagram. According to the activation circuit diagram it appears as if I may have a bad speed controller. The signal to the solenoid comes from the speed controller, DC current moves from negative to positive. When I jumper the positive side of the solenoid the cart will function properly. Is that correct?
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10-08-2012, 08:39 AM | #4 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
I believe you're misreading the schematic.
(You've also got current flow and electron flow mixed up, but that is a minor technical issue. ) Let's leave current flow out of it for the moment and just look at voltage. The voltage source is the main positive terminal on the battery pack as shown in the upper left corner of the schematic. It leaves the battery pack, goes through the Reed switch (labeled Ignition Interlock on schematic), then through MS-2 on F/R assembly, then through Keyswitch, then through MS-3 in pedal box, then to one side of the solenoid coil. There it goes in two directions, one to Pin-4 on controller (This voltage signals the controller to turn on, the controller does not supply the voltage)and the other through the solenoid coil. The other side of the solenoid coil is connected to the main negative terminal on the battery pack via a connection on the B- terminal on the controller. The only involvement the controller has in the solenoid activation circuit is that its B- terminal is used as a tie point to connect one side of the solenoid coil to B- and that it receives a voltage from the solenoid activation circuit. In other words, the solenoid should activate whether the controller is good or not. Like Scotty suggested, attach DVM negative test lead to B- at battery pack and start looking for B+ by tracing back from the small terminal on the solenoid with the red wires attached towards the B+ source at the smaller of the three wires on the backside of the cart's charger receptacle. ---------- FWIW: Back in the days of Leyden Jars, or earlier, the electrical pioneers decreed that electricity flows from Positive to Negative. It was later discovered that electricity is composed of electrons and that electrons flowed from Negative to Positive. Apparently Political Correctness also existed back then and instead of correcting the error, two terms started being used to describe the flow of electricity. Current flow (+ to -) and Electron flow (- to +). To further complicate the confusion that cause, terms like Conventional Current Flow and Electron Current Flow were also coined. Analyzing a circuit with either concept produces exactly the same results, but not if you mix the two. As a sidebar, the symbols used on schematics are based on Conventional Current Flow, so the arrows point in the direction of current flow and the positive plates on batteries and polarized capacitors are longer than the negative plates. |
10-08-2012, 09:37 AM | #5 | |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,356
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
Quote:
If yes then the problem is not the controller but someplace in the red wire path traced on the drawing. Check the source and then in this order; the F&R micro switch, the key switch, the peddle box micro switch...... somewhere in that line you are loosing the + side of the activation circuit. Good luck with it. |
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10-08-2012, 06:04 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 5
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
Scotty and Johnnie you both have made this as easy as possible for me and I really appreciate your time and patience in helping with my trouble. I will go back as advised and follow the Positive path and report back.
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10-08-2012, 07:28 PM | #7 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,356
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
Feedback is key
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10-08-2012, 09:57 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 5
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
Here it is, in the wire loom running along the bottom of the cart there was a butt connector on the blue wire. The wire was pulled loose from one end inside of the black corrugated wire covering. I soldered and heat shrink covered the new connection and it is back in operation. Just as easy as listening to good advice. Thank you both.
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10-08-2012, 10:03 PM | #9 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,356
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
Very good work, guy!
Thanks for letting us know. This is what makes the archives valuable. |
10-09-2012, 06:04 AM | #10 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: 94 Ez go solenoid won't click--cart won't go
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