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Unread 01-30-2013, 11:28 PM   #11
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Default Left or right hand thread.

Left on 79. There are times the righty loosey, lefty tighty applies.

Opposite threads often apply when your involved with rod links. One end will be positive thread and the other end will be negative thread. The reason for this is so the rod itself can be turned for making an adjustment without removing the rods eye end from it's captive state.
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Unread 01-30-2013, 11:43 PM   #12
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Default Stuck fasteners

There are many times we go to work on something and the item will not move. Chances are your wrench will start to round off the hex flats.

Besides using a chemical lubricant such as PB Blaster, WD40, or Kroil to loosen up any rust there is a heavier way to handle such situations. Hot and cold applications usually free up stuck bolts. Besides using a gas like a welder, there are other ways to heat rusted bolts. A propane torch is the first to come to mind. Heat your item up till it is red hot and let it cool a bit. The expansion of the bolt, with heat, should be enough to loosen it. There is also an option of freezing an item too. Many of us don't have access to liquid nitrogen but there are freeze spray's for purchase. I often use a paint prevail turned upside down and use the liquid output to freeze whatever I'm focused.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 05:53 AM   #13
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Default Re: Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty

When I encounter a stuck screw or bolt, I usually try tapping on the screwdriver of wrench with a hammer before going to the penetrating oil or hot/cold routines.

The shock wave transmitted through the metal often breaks the bond caused by rust or metal migration and the screw/bolt/nut can be removed without soiling or damaging whatever it was holding together.

For small stuff, I use a 2 to 4 Oz ball-peen hammer and a flick of the wrist. For bigger stuff, I use a bigger hammer. The trick is a sharp tap rather than a hard blow.
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Unread 01-31-2013, 04:37 PM   #14
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Default Re: Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty

Alot of stuff that is really stuck,and can't really be heated can be "Rattled-Loose"When we do Spring-Shackles and don't want to ReBush the spring,we remove the nut,take an Air-Hammer with a punch-bit,and hammer away on the flats of the bolt,just sit in one spot and let it vibrate it,suddenly you will see a rust-cloud coming out around the bolt,the rattle-sound will change,now just put the bit against the head on an angle and walk the bolt out.This works awesome on frozen Trailer-Hitches too(When you have a Class-3 receiver that has been in place forever and won't budge).My Dad bought a hitch that had a receiver stuck in it,I hammered it for about 1-minute,and it fell out!He couldn't believe it.When heating a bolt that is thru something solid,heat the object,then blast the bolt with a stream of cold-water(I use a 20oz. pop-bottle with a hole punched in the cap),quickly reheat the spot,and the bolt usually will spin loose!
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Unread 01-31-2013, 06:35 PM   #15
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Default Re: Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty

Sometimes the simplest way to loosen a stuck nut is to tighten it. Often just cranking down on it a quarter turn or so is enough to get it moving so you can back it out.
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Unread 02-01-2013, 07:01 AM   #16
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Default Re: Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty

Quote:
Originally Posted by chloe View Post
Sometimes the simplest way to loosen a stuck nut is to tighten it. Often just cranking down on it a quarter turn or so is enough to get it moving so you can back it out.
I forgot to mention that.
When I do my tap with a small hammer routine, I apply pressure to the screwdriver or wrench in a tightening direction.
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