I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor

Taykol · 11-01-2012, 10:32 AM

Unless it would have prevented this? This after a 45 ride...

scottyb · 11-01-2012, 11:46 AM

I doubt it would have prevented that, but it will make your controller and contactor last longer........ assuming the controller & Solenoid are properly sized for the task at hand.

Taykol · 11-01-2012, 03:40 PM

What would cause this heat?

yurtle · 11-01-2012, 04:28 PM

I melted two solenoids with a stock buggy, driving WAY beyond its limits for too long. I finally upgraded.

Golf carts aren't meant to be driven the way I drove mine, so I upgraded.

scottyb · 11-01-2012, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taykol

What would cause this heat?

In a nutshell. Resistance causes heat. So in the amperage flow from the batteries to the motor, that was the point of the most resistance. Solenoid could have been old and contacts already compromised?

Taykol · 11-01-2012, 05:21 PM

Yes the solenoid was already partially melted already, it just needed another long trip to finish it off. It still clicks but is fried other than that. Next purchase is ScottyB package #505. Get this back to dcs as well, will need to add the f+r switch.

Thanks for the pic yurtle! My innards look like that I'm sure.

scottyb · 11-01-2012, 06:33 PM

WHat? It's a DCS cart? Well that makes a difference ... the DCS stock solenoid had a resistor and diode board attached on the large terminals..... can't run without it. Costs like $30 new. I have some new old stock, do you need one and a used stock solenoid? I can hook you up.

Taykol · 11-01-2012, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Are you sure that serial number is correct?

Here is what I get when I plug it into the EZGO serial number look-up website
Search Results

Make: TXT

Type: Electric 36 V

Model: TXT Standard (DCS)

Year: 1999

That says it rolled out of the factory as a DCS, but the F/R and controller is now for a Series type drive. Ouch!!

Figured replacing the f/r, controller and solenoid would bring me back to full DCS status. Assuming throttle and motor Haven't been replaced?
Let me know where to go from here.

gornoman · 11-01-2012, 07:09 PM

You would also need a DCS motor. Series motors are NOT interchangeable into DCS (Sepex) systems.

simple man · 11-01-2012, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Taykol

Yes the solenoid was already partially melted already, it just needed another long trip to finish it off. It still clicks but is fried other than that. Next purchase is ScottyB package #505. Get this back to dcs as well, will need to add the f+r switch.

Thanks for the pic yurtle! My innards look like that I'm sure.

IMO those solenoids are junk! It doesn't look to me like it would handle 50amps, and they're put on a golf cart that may need hundreds of amps! I took two of these apart and although not melted looks like possibly they got hot inside. Here's a link to my thread, if you're interested:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gener...apability.html

11-01-2012, 10:32 AM	#1
Taykol Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Homestead Florida Posts: 80	I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor Unless it would have prevented this? This after a 45 ride...

11-01-2012, 11:46 AM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,408	Re: I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor I doubt it would have prevented that, but it will make your controller and contactor last longer........ assuming the controller & Solenoid are properly sized for the task at hand.

11-01-2012, 03:40 PM	#3
Taykol Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Homestead Florida Posts: 80	Re: I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor What would cause this heat?

11-01-2012, 05:21 PM	#6
Taykol Getting Wild Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Homestead Florida Posts: 80	Re: I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor Yes the solenoid was already partially melted already, it just needed another long trip to finish it off. It still clicks but is fried other than that. Next purchase is ScottyB package #505. Get this back to dcs as well, will need to add the f+r switch. Thanks for the pic yurtle! My innards look like that I'm sure.

11-01-2012, 06:33 PM	#7
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,408	Re: I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor WHat? It's a DCS cart? Well that makes a difference ... the DCS stock solenoid had a resistor and diode board attached on the large terminals..... can't run without it. Costs like $30 new. I have some new old stock, do you need one and a used stock solenoid? I can hook you up.

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11-01-2012, 07:09 PM	#9
gornoman Stay thirsty my friends! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Suburban Chicago Posts: 24,286	Re: I don't need no stinkin' solenoid diode/resistor You would also need a DCS motor. Series motors are NOT interchangeable into DCS (Sepex) systems.

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