500 amp Battery Isolator and Relay

seulater

Aside from the coil voltage being 12v, which is not a big deal anyway.
Is there any reason why you guys are not using a battery isolator relay for upgrades, just curious... ?

This one i was looking at is continuous duty 500A and only $46.70 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-INSTALL-...item4d01b02a26

I e-mailed the company, and asked them id there was any de-rating of the amperage for 36v and they said no.

BGW

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yurtle

I just glanced at the specs, and it appears this is for a parallel battery system. Back in the day, I installed a second 12 volt battery in my '78 Chevy van, and used a marine (A, B, A & B, Off) high current switch. This was a parallel bank.

I'm not sure how this would do anything for a series battery bank.

JohnnieB

In general terms, most golf cart upgrades adhere to the KISS philosophy, so the aside is the reason.
While a misnomer technically, in the electric golf cart community, the part linked to is referred to as a solenoid and every electric golf cart has one.
For simplicity, the coil voltage of the solenoid (more correctly called a relay or contactor) is typically the same as the battery pack voltage.

Granted, operating a solenoid whose coil voltage is less than the battery pack voltage is a relatively simple task, but it is rarely seen with pack voltages of 48V and below because suitable solenoids with coils that operate in that voltage range, are readily available, relatively inexpensive and more importantly, have been successively field tested in golf carts.

There are other uses for electo-mechanical high current switches in golf cart applications, but in most instances the coil voltage matches the switched voltage.
For example the contactor linked to might work well with a 12V wench powered from an auxiliary 12V battery.

seulater

I should also consider the next guy who buys it from me. If i go using my knowledge in electronics to do stuff cheaper, the next guy who buys it and looks under the seat will be like Huh?

JohnnieB

Either that or draw up some As-Built schematics and parts lists and give them to the new owner.

Of course it depends on what the gadget is. The basic drive systems (DC ones at least) are pretty much cast in stone, but measuring and monitoring performance isn't and accessories such as audio systems and lighting are wide open for improvements.

yurtle

How do you plan on using this? From reading it, it's main purpose is for parallel battery banks, so you can drain one for accessories, while leaving your main (cranking) battery undischarged.

Handles 500 Amps Continuous And Durable Weatherproof Construction A Must For Multi Battery Sytems Allows For Longer Battery Life And Control Over Which Battery Is Being Used. Great For Isolating Second Battery In Boats Making It Dedicated Only To The Stereo System. Keeps Primary Starting Battery From Being Drained To The Point Of Stranding You In The Middle Of The Lake, River Or Ocean.

Or am I missing something?

seulater

I will use it the same way the stock solenoid is used. The only change i will make will be to use the 12v power for the coil from my 36v to 12V converter.

As i am saving up money to make my cart go faster, I read that some of the things i need to upgrade are the stock relay & F&R switch. I really don't want to pay the higher price for the solenoid upgrade when there are other possibilities out there. They call it a "Battery Isolator" but its a solenoid just with a different name. I will then use my 36v to 12v converter to as the power source to drive the coil for it.

In doing a little more research, which i have not completed yet. I may just move onto one of these to replace the F&R switch and dump the main solenoid all together. If i have this there will be no need for the main solenoid. I am waiting to hear from them on the duty cycle of this part though.

http://www.runvacanada.com/usa/R500.htm

yurtle

OK, that makes sense.

yurtle

You need to buy an Alltrax AXE controller first.

I'd really like to see someone develop a good display to talk to their controllers. Serial communication shouldn't be a problem, but programming a good front-end would be kewl. Ideally it would show voltage and current on the same screen.

The AXE already outputs throttle position, controller temperature, battery voltage, controller output current, and battery current. With a couple of temp and proximity sensors, you'd have ambient temp, motor temp, speed, and rpm. That should have everything you'd ever need, unless you want to monitor individual battery voltages.

JohnnieB

And data logging to a flash drive.

Also, with PDS systems using a stock motor, the motor speed sensor (which isn't used with Alltrax controllers) could be used for a tachometer (8 pulses per revolution of motor shaft) and cart speed could be derived from motor RPM if tire height and differential ration is known. That would eliminate a magnet mounted on one wheel and the proximity sensor for the speedometer.