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Old 01-17-2013, 06:53 PM   #1
limey5
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Default drive axle

1986 (chassis) Ezgo cart. Eating rear drive drum splines, splines on steel shaft look a little flat, maybe not extending fully into cast iron splines. Is changing the drive axle a complicated job. Could someone give me a short summary of how to do it? Would be much appreciated.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:58 AM   #2
mtpolarbear
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Default Re: drive axle

Quote:
Originally Posted by limey5 View Post
1986 (chassis) Ezgo cart. Eating rear drive drum splines, splines on steel shaft look a little flat, maybe not extending fully into cast iron splines. Is changing the drive axle a complicated job. Could someone give me a short summary of how to do it? Would be much appreciated.
First thing is we need soke pictures. Makes it easier to help. To make sure I understand your question, the splines at the brake drum/hub are wearing prematurely? As far as the axle, it's fairly easy to pull the axle. Just remove the tire/wheel and then you need to remove the drum(make sure the cart is jacked up and the brake is not set.

You can remove the drum/brake assembly by removing the axle nut and washers then it will slide off the axle. Depending on how long the axle has been in you may have to work at getting it to slide out. You can take the drum and reverse it and put the wheel nut back on and use a rubber mallet and pound out the axle. Be careful to not break the drum. After it's removed take some pics and post so we can see.
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:17 PM   #3
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Default Re: drive axle

Here's a tool that I'll use when things get to be......"delicate"

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Old 01-18-2013, 03:17 PM   #4
limey5
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Default Re: drive axle

Really appreciate the help. Seems simple enough, but if I can just pull the axle once the drum is removed, what stops it from coming out in normal use? And will it just slide back in - tap with a hammer or mallet?

The splines on the shaft are no longer perfect pointed teeth, every spline has a flat top. I have had the cart about four years (factory reconditioned) and last year it ripped all of the cast iron splines from the hub. It has now done the same with the replacement. I have just received a second new hub and I intended to just fit it and if necessary replace the shaft at later date. I have to save up my allowance !!! I have ground the face of a second washer so that I can now take a couple of hammer blows on the wrench to really tighten the axle nut and leave the cotter pin hole dead center. This may solve the problem.
I just needed to be sure that it was a job that I could easily do when the time came.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:59 PM   #5
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Default Re: drive axle

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Originally Posted by limey5 View Post
Really appreciate the help. Seems simple enough, but if I can just pull the axle once the drum is removed, what stops it from coming out in normal use? And will it just slide back in - tap with a hammer or mallet?

The splines on the shaft are no longer perfect pointed teeth, every spline has a flat top. I have had the cart about four years (factory reconditioned) and last year it ripped all of the cast iron splines from the hub. It has now done the same with the replacement. I have just received a second new hub and I intended to just fit it and if necessary replace the shaft at later date. I have to save up my allowance !!! I have ground the face of a second washer so that I can now take a couple of hammer blows on the wrench to really tighten the axle nut and leave the cotter pin hole dead center. This may solve the problem.
I just needed to be sure that it was a job that I could easily do when the time came.
Do you have an update or pics?
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #6
limey5
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Default Re: drive axle

Haven't had the drum off since posting. Major 'creaking' at slow speeds, have to look in there in next five minutes - will take picture. Still puzzled about possiblity of retaining clip on axle ?
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:33 PM   #7
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Default Re: drive axle

Solving problems one at a time. Had LHS brake pads adjusted to minimum, just removed LHS brake assembly completely and creaking gone ????? Running on one brake until I can figure out why it binds and creaks.
Camera flash illuminated area and now see the circle clip retaining the axle. Took 75 lbs ft torque to get nut to match cotter hole. Shaft rotated smoothly by hand.
Don't know if picture good enough to give opinion on splines, however, cinched up real tight has run fine for last few days on old drum - only couple of damaged splines. May save my new drum until I change shaft. Would appreciate your opinion. Eric.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:07 PM   #8
mtpolarbear
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Default Re: drive axle

Quote:
Originally Posted by limey5 View Post
Solving problems one at a time. Had LHS brake pads adjusted to minimum, just removed LHS brake assembly completely and creaking gone ????? Running on one brake until I can figure out why it binds and creaks.
Camera flash illuminated area and now see the circle clip retaining the axle. Took 75 lbs ft torque to get nut to match cotter hole. Shaft rotated smoothly by hand.
Don't know if picture good enough to give opinion on splines, however, cinched up real tight has run fine for last few days on old drum - only couple of damaged splines. May save my new drum until I change shaft. Would appreciate your opinion. Eric.
You shouldn't have to torque that nut at all. Just tighten very snug then back off a tad to align the hole for the cotter pin. Too much torque and you can ruin your bearings.
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:08 PM   #9
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Default Re: drive axle

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Originally Posted by mtpolarbear View Post
You shouldn't have to torque that nut at all. Just tighten very snug then back off a tad to align the hole for the cotter pin. Too much torque and you can ruin your bearings.
If you're talking about the nut that holds the drum onto the axle, it requires SERIOUS torque, and never back off to install the cotter pin. No less than 80 ft-lbs and no more than 140.

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Old 01-22-2013, 07:44 PM   #10
limey5
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Default Re: drive axle

I googled the drum nut torque and got min 70 and I had to put my shoulder to it to get it to the pin hole (approx 75) using a piece of rebar across the lug studs braced to the ground, don't think I could get 80 even with my 18" torque wrench - it's tight.
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