Need help wiring voltage reducer and blue sea systems 5025 and......

Morpheus

Ive been lurking on this forum for almost a year now and the time to post has come i guess. I purchased a 2005 ez go pds cart last year for use at our camp, and since its the winter months, Ive started the task of tearing it all apart and upgrading stuff. I have always loved to tinker with stuff and Ive worked on cars before, but this electrics stuff is confusing lol

Ive been able to do all the other stuff so far myself, suspension, alltrax 400 controller, 4 guage wires, new batteries, HD shocks and leaf springs, new body etc ......

So what I have been looking for is a diagram ( im more visual ) as to how to wire all this up. As I stated in the title, I have a 30 amp four wire reducer, a Blue seas 5025 distribution block that needs to be wired to a radio, headlights, a roof top light bar, and a horn. I want the radio and the lights to be controlled by a 3 prong led switch ( seperate of course) .

Ive also read about installing relays? I can do the reducer, but after that Im lost.......

I fugured this is the place to start as you guys seem to be the go to crowd

Thanks in advance exeryone !

BGW

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DOOmsman

Here is a relay wiring diagram just don't ground to the frame return wire to 12 volt source negative.
The third prong on the switches is usually ground for the little light in them.
http://www.accessconnect.com/fog_dri...hts_wiring.htm

Morpheus

Thanks for the diagram....kinda makes sense to me.

I guess Im getting lost when it comes to inserting the relay and how does the distribution block get wired?

Obviously, the positive and negative go from the reducer to the block positive and negative, but then what? Am I just using the + and - terminals on the block to start this sequence? Meaning using the diagram you linked to, would the block replace the battery?


And I know you dont ground to the frame......but to the negative terminal correct? So I would be grounding to the negative post on the distribution block?

Im confused again lol .............

yurtle

Everything you said sounds right. The only thing I would question is whether you need a relay or not. If your reducer has a "remote on" wire, you won't need a relay to feed it 36 or 48 volts. As to a relay for all of your 12 volt loads, it depends on the rating of the switch you use.

A relay is nothing more than a higher current and/or voltage switch, which is turned on and off by a lower rated switch. In the example, assuming 55 watt lights, that's 110 watts for both. At 12 volts, that's nearly 10 amps, which may be more than a cheap light switch can handle.

For my setup, I have a three position key switch, off/on/on with accessories. I ran a separate 48 volt circuit through my key switch, which turns on and off my reducer. If your reducer has no remote on wire, you'll want to protect your key switch with a relay, but it will have to be rated for battery voltage (36 or 48 volts).

From my switched reducer, I did the same thing you're planning on doing, which is to put the 12+ on the fused side of my fuse block, and the 12- on the negative bus. Where you go from here is up to you. I have every 12 volt accessory controlled by a HD DPST or DPDT switch. As long as you use a switch that's rated for the load(s), there's no need for any relays for your 12 volt circuits. If your "three pronged LED switch" isn't rated for the loads, then you'll need relays for each circuit.

Morpheus

ok.....I think Im getting this now

That all seems to make sense. Appreciate the reply. Ill have to check the switches to see what the ratings are

Morpheus

So Ive been looking around some more and reading wiring diagrams and such

The toggle switches are rated for 16 amps( ithink thats what it said, it was late when I looked) so I may be ok with out the relays for most applications

My next question is ......the remote on/off wire for the converter goes to where on the key switch? Oh and I do have a three position key switch ( not installed) but I could put it in if it would make this easier

And, most of the diagrams I have seen call for "switched Power" for the toggle switches .............where would that come from?

Thanks again everyone

DOOmsman

The switched power is the power from your switched converter.

And I am not being smart mouthed.

yurtle

I ran a dedicated 48+ from the battery to my three position key switch. From there, I ran it back to the converter. I would guess you could also use the power from your current switch, but I think it would turn off every time you shifted from forward to reverse.

As to "switched power", that sounds like for automotive use, so it is only powered when you are driving, or parked with the key in accessory mode. As long as you turn off your converter with your key switched, that makies your 12 volt "switched power".

Morpheus

Now it all makes sense....
Thanks again for all the replies. I spent some time today at work "drawing" wiring diagrams ( like I said Im visual ) and I think I have it all figured out now, thanks to all of you of course!

yurtle

Feel free to post your wiring diagrams if you want us to double check them. I still need to update mine. I have the hand drawings, but need to do them in Visio, so I can post them here as .pdfs, to help answer questions.