PQ Bandit

ddeblance

Thinking of doing the PQ Bandit upgrade after I've replaced batteries and cables.
Anyone seen a significant increase in speed with stock controller?

Not sure if all is correct...
6" lift
Rear seat
36v PDS

BGW

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JohnnieB

With a 6" lift, the tires are probably taller than the stock 18", so you need to upgrade to a higher amp controller to regain the lost torque.

The stock controller probably won't last very long with tall tires, so it is more of a matter of time than an option.

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A stock PDS controller limits motor RPM to about 4,400RPM in Freedom mode and will only creep along when the speed sensor is disconnected, so no speed increase will occur with a Bandit or any other motor.

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An aftermarket controller, like an Altrax400PDS, that doesn't use a speed sensor, will push a PDS cart with stock height tires and a stock motor into the mid 20's and you will gain more speed and more torque with a PQ Bandit.

ddeblance

JohnnieB,

I know these questions are all over this site, but actually there are too many to search through to make sure I'm getting the right answers.

Is the controller all I need to replace to increase speed?
I see a battery and cable replacement coming, hopefully after the summer...
What about the solenoid?

-DD

scottyb

The solenoid and cables have to be rated to handle the increase in amperage the new controller will pass.
When you upgrade the control you need to upgrade the solenoid and cables. Ezgo put 4g cables between the control and the motor so in a newer cart (relatively good cables) you just need 8 cables to complete the 4g upgrade. That's 5 battery to battery cables and 3 from the pack to the controller/solenoid.
A simple upgrade that everybody loves is the Alltrax DCX400 and 200a HD solenoid, This will get you about 25-26mph with those big tires.
We have the combo on sale for $499

JohnnieB

Yes, just upgrading to an aftermarket controller will get you more speed.
The stock solenoid is inadequate for an aftermarket controller and should be replaced with a higher amp unit at the same time the controller is replaced.

Scottyb currently has his #080 kit on sale and it includes a Alltrax DCX400PDS controller and a heavy duty solenoid (200A continuous/800A peak).
Its about 2/3 the way down this webpage. Also has good info on the things to take into consideration while upgrading a cart.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

Of course, the high current cables (Total of 10 cables on a PDS cart) will have to carry more amps and the battery pack will have to produce more amps, so any deficiencies in them will soon become apparent.

To realize the maximum potential of an aftermarket controller with a stock motor, you have to have good cables and batteries, but it will run better.
Just check the cables often to make sure they aren't getting too hot.

As for batteries, get the highest amp-hour batteries you can afford, they will give you the best performance and run-time and will last longer.

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Personally, I'm planning on running my stock PDS motor until it starts showing signs of needing a rebuild and then send it to Plum Quick for them to perform their magic on it.

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I see Scotty posted will I was typing.

ddeblance

Ok, well guess I need to get my ducks in a row.

I need to save up for controller, solenoid, & cables... and I think I'll run the stock motor like suggested.


Another quick question. About how long should these Continental Golf Cart batteries last? I don't see a date on them. There is a sticker on the side 2GC-110. But not seeing anything else.
I'm still needing to repair the post on at least two batteries, but wondering if it's worth the effort.
We used the cart Sunday and I placed it on charge and hasn't been used since. This morning I checked each battery. Here are the readings.

6.73
6.78
6.85
6.91
6.97
7.00

-DD

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JohnnieB

The batteries have to rest (meaning neither charged or discharged) about 12 hours to get an accurate State of Charge reading.

Those voltages are way to high, so I suspect they hadn't rested much.

Let them rest until this evening, or drive the cart about half a mile and then measure and record the pack voltage and the individual voltages.
Fully charged at-rest voltage should be about 38.2V for a 36V pack and about 6.37V for a 6V battery, and all six batteries should be within about 0.1V of each other.

Then drive cart for 5 or 6 miles, let the batteries rest for about 15 minutes and measure and record the pack voltage and individual voltages again.
Then compare the before and after voltages.

If one or more batteries are significantly lower than the others, that battery is weaker than the rest.
Ideally, all six should still be withing 0.12V of each other.

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According to Continental, those are 225AH batteries. They just market them and don't say who actually made them, but they should last about as long as any other 225AH battery.

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The burnt off studs indicates the former owner didn't take very good care on the battery cables and connections, so replacing the cables is higher on the list than replacing the batteries.

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If the batteries check out okay on the above test, I have seen a battery post to stud adapter that would work between than the clamp on type battery post connector seen in your picture # 2.

I'll see if I can dig up a source for them.

Found it --- something like this http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0365&ppt=C0005

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What charger do you have?