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Old 04-04-2013, 12:36 PM   #1
greg9719
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Default critique my plan

Hi all.
So I received a free 95 EZ GO Medalist DCS cart. I have been reading on here so much the last week my eyes and head hurt lol. Anyways I've come up with a plan for it and need the experts on here's input.

Im gonna either build or buy a pre fabbed new battery tray due to the current one being rusted out. I haven't got to choosing battery's yet though until I confirm my plan.

I plan on first getting a PQ bandit motor because mine is fried. I did the jump S2 to A1 and connect a 12 volt battery charger to the other posts and didn't get anything. Note: I have been told the gears/rear end may be shot too. I plan to run 48v. Am I correct in assuming that a 36v motor will run on 48v or do I specifically need a 48v motor?

I then plan on Scotty B's package with an HD solenoid and DCX500 amp controller and will use 2 or 4 game wires depending on what y'all recommend. (2 game I assume). I m thinking I will do 6-8v battery's.

I think I want a 6 in James lift and 22" tires.

So please fire away and let me know what y'all think.
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
JohnnieB
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Default Re: critique my plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg9719 View Post
Hi all.
So I received a free 95 EZ GO Medalist DCS cart. I have been reading on here so much the last week my eyes and head hurt lol. Anyways I've come up with a plan for it and need the experts on here's input.

Im gonna either build or buy a pre fabbed new battery tray due to the current one being rusted out. I haven't got to choosing battery's yet though until I confirm my plan.

I plan on first getting a PQ bandit motor because mine is fried. I did the jump S2 to A1 and connect a 12 volt battery charger to the other posts and didn't get anything. Note: I have been told the gears/rear end may be shot too. I plan to run 48v. Am I correct in assuming that a 36v motor will run on 48v or do I specifically need a 48v motor?

I then plan on Scotty B's package with an HD solenoid and DCX500 amp controller and will use 2 or 4 game wires depending on what y'all recommend. (2 game I assume). I m thinking I will do 6-8v battery's.

I think I want a 6 in James lift and 22" tires.

So please fire away and let me know what y'all think.
Ouch, the DCS uses a Sepex motor and the field windings are much, much lighter gauge than the armature windings. (IIRC: The current through the field is only about 1/10 the current through the armature.)

Measure the Field windings and Armature windings with an Ohmmeter.
If you've got continuity or both, Plum Quick might be able to rebuild it and you will have a torque monster.

If you go with a 500A or higher controller, go with the 2Ga cables (all 10 of them, plus a couple more if you go to 8 X 6V)
Especially with 22" tires.

I'd also go with the Super-Duty solenoid (400A continuous / 1000A peak) rather than the Heavy-Duty (200A continuous / 800A peak)

I went with 2Ga cables and Super-duty solenoid even though I just went with a 400A controller, because I'm an efficiency nut.
And I went 7 X 6V (42V) because I wanted to keep every it under the seat and too lazy to shoehorn the eight one in.
However, my goal is range rather than speed or torque.
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #3
greg9719
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Default Re: critique my plan

PQ said they have a bandit DCS motor in stock right now. Im hoping I can get it before its gone.

an you describe how to measure the field and armature windings as you stated? Im kind of a dummie with all this electrical stuff. Im rather mechanically inclined and have always worked on cars but electricity and wiring isnt my best area of knowledge.

Noted on the solenoid.

I dont neccessarily need a ton of speed but am kind of looking for a nice torque and range cart. So 42v might be better than 48v?

Oh here are some pictures of what I have to work with.
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:54 PM   #4
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Default Re: critique my plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg9719 View Post
PQ said they have a bandit DCS motor in stock right now. Im hoping I can get it before its gone.

an you describe how to measure the field and armature windings as you stated? Im kind of a dummie with all this electrical stuff. Im rather mechanically inclined and have always worked on cars but electricity and wiring isnt my best area of knowledge.

Noted on the solenoid.

I dont neccessarily need a ton of speed but am kind of looking for a nice torque and range cart. So 42v might be better than 48v?

Oh here are some pictures of what I have to work with.
Send the DCS motor to Plum quick as a core, if it isn't salvageable they won't refund the core charge.

I won't say 42V is better, but if might be sufficient. It depends on what you want.

I had all the speed I wanted and all the torque I needed with 36V.
I tossed the 7th battery in because it increase the range by over 16% and would keep my average SoC higher, so the batteries will last longer.

------------
If you happen to ever take the cover off the F/R switch, please take pictures.
I'd love to see what is in there.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:02 AM   #5
greg9719
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Default Re: critique my plan

Here ya go
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:17 AM   #6
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Default Re: critique my plan

Thanks.

There are two schematics for DCS carts.
One has a diode on the F/R switch, the other doesn't, and I wondered what the one with the diode actually looked like.
Now I know.

Here is the schematic for your cart.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:01 PM   #7
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Default Re: critique my plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg9719 View Post
I haven't got to choosing battery's yet though until I confirm my plan.
Go with 6 8v's.. JohhnieB is just too cool for school with his odd man out 42v. (you know I'm playing buddy)


He added to his original 6 I believe, if you have to start from scratch go with the six 8's off the bat. It'll leave more room fo' mo' stuff.


Have fun man!! I went through a rebuild of a 95 and had one heck of a time. Johnnie here actually helped me a lot with my MANY issues. You've found a great resource.

Just follow the rules of fight club...I mean BGW.. Post pics. Always post pics.
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:43 AM   #8
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Default Re: critique my plan

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Originally Posted by Dela View Post
Go with 6 8v's.. JohhnieB is just too cool for school with his odd man out 42v. (you know I'm playing buddy)


Here is a list of 8V batteries I put together. If you use 170AH 8V batteries, you will have about the same run-time as a 36V pack made up of 225AH 6V batteries. (Actually a little more energy storage wise, but a 48V system tends to increase the weight of the foot on the pedal, so run-time may be less.)

Go with the highest AH you can afford, they will last longer.
How much longer they will last, roughly equates to the percentage in the right-hand column so you can use it to comparison shop for the best bang for the buck.
----------

My 42V pack is all new batteries.

My goal was range and I was pretty sure that a 260AH 36V pack would give me the range I wanted, but the cost of seven 245AH batteries was less than six 260AH batteries, and I ended up with and additional kWh of storage to boot.

Now I've just got to get the thing put together.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:30 PM   #9
greg9719
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Default Re: critique my plan

I've pulled my motor and hope to send it off to PQ when I get back from my cruise next week (hopefully blackjack will help fund this cart build some).

Is there a method to bench test my stock controller (beings I have no batteries) to see if it is still somewhat salvageable or I could at least try to sell it?
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:01 PM   #10
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Default Re: critique my plan

95 Medalist DCS here,too. You got a jump on me with your build greg.

I started some with a front basket and light.Not pictured yet, Ordered wires from scotty ( on the brown truck) talked with PQ about rebuild on my motor, bought new batteries and I am doing the 42V on mine for duration as my torque is fine with 36. As soon as Turkey gobblers quit I am stripping and painting a camo pattern. Have you thought on your paint yet?

So glad you are here and hopefully you learn and pass on the knowledge.

Ok, here she is. I have gotten some heat for not posting pics.Sorry for the delay.
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