TXT issue

Glowammo

I have a 1995 txt that just recently quit. I was going up a curb and cart stopped (needed more torque to get up and over) I was just about to release the throttle to rock back and get a short run at it, when there was a very quiet pop and now I get nothing in any direction. The is still a "click" when you push the accelerator, but nothing.

I have gone up this curb a thousand times, and now I am kicking myself for putting it in a bind.

I am about to start trouble shooting, but if you know the best way to start or best place to look I would greatly appreciate it.

I am not looking forward to walking to the barn. LOL

Thanks

BGW

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JohnnieB

Welcome to BGW!

Is it a Series or a DCS drive?
DCS cart will have a Run/Tow switch on the controller cover.

With controls set like you were going to drive cart forward, connect Voltmeter between B- and M- terminals on controller.

Slowly push pedal just until solenoid first clicks. You should read full battery pack voltage.

If not, something is open in the high current circuit. Need to know which type drive to troubleshoot further.
If so, the controller is probably bad, but needs more testing to verify

scottyb

There is nothing harder on a motor or controller than putting the cart in a stall situation where it is trying to go but can not due to an immoveable object or insurmountable task.

Begin controller shopping.
Before you choose a control, decide what your performance needs and goals are. Generally you will need something like this below:
Campground use = 400a control, 200a solenoid, 4g cables, HD F&R
Hunting use = 500a control, 400a solenoid, 2g cables, HD F&R

There are other considerations like 36 or 48v operating systems. Talk with some one who can help you design a system that will meet your needs.

Glowammo

There is not a tow switch. I will check the voltage ASAP to see what it says and get back on here ASAP. Thank you

JohnnieB

Here is a schematic of a Series cart with the high current circuit highlighted.

The F/R switch contacts are likely suspects, as well as the controller, motor, Etc.

Attached Images

Wiring Diagram - Series- Hi-Current traced.JPG (59.3 KB, 0 views)

Glowammo

I get full voltage when solenoid comes in.

I am not sure how to check controller and/or throttle/speed controller.

Glowammo

Ok I have 38volts on the battery side if solenoid, but I also read 31 volts without the throttle engaged on the controller side of the solenoid? Any ideas???

Also I bought a new solenoid and it does the exact same thing

JohnnieB

The is a 250 Ohm resistor between the two large terminals on the solenoid, so you will read a voltage a bit less than the battery pack voltage on the controller side when the solenoid is not energized.

Measure the voltage between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.
When the pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to click, you should read FULL battery pack voltage.

If less than FULL battery pack voltage, the high current loop is bad. (F/R switch, motor ETC.)

If you have FULL battery pack voltage, slowly press pedal to floor.
The voltage should smoothly decrease to Zero.

If not, the controller is bad.

Glowammo

Thank you.

Testing b- and m- I get 31 volts without the throttle pressed.

When throttle is pressed I get the full 38 volts testing b- and m-; however, the voltage does not decrease as the pedal is pressed further to the floor.... Simply stats at 38volts.

JohnnieB

Sounds like the controller is blown.