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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Unread 04-16-2013, 12:38 PM   #11
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Default Re: Help me please

Let me just say thanks again for all of your help. Since the controller is bad i might as well upgrade to a better one. I use it for hunting so i drive it in the woods - nothing crazy a few small hills maybe over branches etc.. I dont care about speed so much but more torque would be nice for muddy conditions and when hauling stuff. So would the controller and solenoid you recommended be best for my needs? Is it easy to program a programmable controller? Also how can you tell what gauge cable i have now? I would like to upgrade this cart and make it last for years to come and i dont mind spending a few bucks to do it so any suggestions you have to seriously upgrade it would be appreciated. I guess what im asking is if this was your cart and knowing my needs what would you do to it to upgrade it???
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Unread 04-16-2013, 01:43 PM   #12
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Default Re: Help me please

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddybud View Post
1. I use it for hunting so i drive it in the woods - nothing crazy a few small hills maybe over branches etc.. I dont care about speed so much but more torque would be nice for muddy conditions and when hauling stuff. So would the controller and solenoid you recommended be best for my needs?

2. Is it easy to program a programmable controller?

3. Also how can you tell what gauge cable i have now?

4. I would like to upgrade this cart and make it last for years to come and i dont mind spending a few bucks to do it so any suggestions you have to seriously upgrade it would be appreciated. I guess what im asking is if this was your cart and knowing my needs what would you do to it to upgrade it???
1. I won't say "best" because there are too many variables and unknowns, but I suspect it would be adequate for your needs since your needs don't appear to be extreme.
If your tires are 22" or less, a 400A controller should suffice, but if they are taller than 22", you might be happier with a 500A controller.

2. You can download the "Controller Pro" program and instruction manual from the Alltrax website and pick up the needed USB to serial adapter and cables at Radio Shack.

Then you can change various operating parameters by checking boxes and moving sliders on your computer screen.

For instance, by adjusting the Throttle Up Rate, your cart will accelerate from a standstill like a dragster or like a luxury sedan with a powerful engine.

It probably won't do a wheelie, but it ought to spin the tires. Of course, that has a tendency to strip the splines out of the hubs, so most people back the Throttle Up Rate off a bit.

Here composite picture of how mine was originally set and show what the various controls are. You can download the instructions to see what each does.

3. 6Ga cables were stock on EZGO carts until the mid 2000's, but they needed at least 4Ga. The gauge may be marked on the cables. Something like AWG 6 or AWG 4.

4. What my choices are, are listed below in my signature block.
Running at 42V or 48V is more efficient, and the motor doesn't get as hot, but you've got new batteries, so I would wait until they needed to be replaced before upping the pack voltage.


Contact Scotty at Carts Unlimited and discuss it, he will give you good advice.
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File Type: jpg JohnnieB DCX400PDS- original settings.JPG (129.4 KB, 0 views)
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Unread 04-16-2013, 10:55 PM   #13
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Default Re: Help me please

I had another question if you dont mind. In reference to this part - you wrote "Sounds like you have Two problems.
The microswitch in the pedal box is staying closed. Might be bad, might be out of adjustment.
It needs to be fixed, but it isn't why cart won't run." I replace the microswitch and i was wondering what test i can do on the voltmeter to determine if it is working properly now.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 05:58 AM   #14
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Default Re: Help me please

Pin-5 on controller:
Pedal up should be Zero
Pedal pushed should be battery pack voltage.

Also, you can measure between pins 3 & 4 on inline connector with an Ohmmeter.
Pedal up = Open
Pedal down = Short
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Unread 04-17-2013, 11:58 AM   #15
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Default Re: Help me please

I tested pin 5 again with the new microswitch and voltage is 0.0 with the pedal up and also with the pedal down . What does that indicate?
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Unread 04-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #16
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Default Re: Help me please

It means that one of the switches, wires or connections that connect the pedal switch to the battery is open. (Or the switch isn't adjusted properly)
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:42 PM   #17
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After downloading part of the repair manual and doing a few tests i now suspect that my ITS inductive throttle sensor is bad. Any suggestions as to how i test this? The repair manual says " Separate the six pin controller between the pedal box and controller. If the voltage goes to 14-16 volts then the ITS is faulty and needs to be replaced." Mine went to 14.3. However it also says "Place the positive probe on the white pin and depress the pedal slowly. The reading should be 0.45-0.53 volts just as the micro switch is energized. Depress the accelerator slowly to full pedal and the reading should smoothly move to above 1.5 volts. If not replace the ITS." Those test results were exactly as they should be. Do you think my ITS is bad because of that one result or do you have any other test i can do for the ITS. Thanks you for your help.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:54 PM   #18
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Default Re: Help me please

One more thing - i took a few days off from messing with this to clear my head and start with a fresh perspective - i did the original test you suggested "Not moving issue:
Connect voltmeter between B- and M- terminals on controller.
When solenoid is energized and pedal is up, you should have FULL battery pack voltage.
When pedal is slowly pushed to floor, the voltage should smoothly decrease to Zero.
If not, the controller is bad." It had full battery voltage (38.0) with the pedal up and it had 36.8 with the pedal down. So my controller is bad????
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Unread 04-20-2013, 01:55 PM   #19
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Default Re: Help me please

Just to make sure we are on the same page, there are two separate things that happen when the pedal is pushed.

1. Pedal microswitch closes and put B+ on con6troller Pin-5. Doing so tells the controller to put B- on Pin-7, which energizes solenoid.

2. After the microswitch closes, the plunger continues to move and enters the ITS sensor coil, changing the inductive reactance of the coil. As plunger is inserted deeper into the coil, the inductive reactance changes further.

Even though both circuits are in same box under floor mat, they perform two separate functions.

The voltage to and from the pedal microswitch is shown on the highlighted schematic I posted earlier.

Voltage to the ITS sensor coil is supplied by the controller via Pin-2 (Black wire) and should be slightly between 14V and 16V, typically just slightly above 14V.
If it isn't, then you separate the in-line connector.
If it is within that range, you bypass the disconnecting the in-line connector step.

The voltage the ITS sensor coil sends to the controller on Pin-1 (White wire) should be from 0.45V to 0.53V when the plunger is at the mouth of the ITS sensor coil and 1.5V or above when the plunger is fully inserted into the coil.

------------
If you have Full battery pack voltage between B- and M- when solenoid first clicks, but doesn't drop to 0V or nearly zero volts when the pedal is pushed to the floor, either the controller or the ITS is bad. (36.8V is not nearly zero volts!)

If the the voltage on Pin-1 varies between about 0.5v and 1.5V as pedal is pushed down, the ITS is good and the controller is bad.

If the voltage on Pin-1 does not vary between about 0.5v and 1.5V as pedal is pushed down, the ITS is bad and the controller might be good.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 09:21 AM   #20
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Default Re: Help me please

Any advice on how i can test the motor with a meter to see if its getting power from the controller??? The cart will not run right now and im pretty sure i need a controller but i need to know if the motor is bad also.
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