Intermittent failure of pedal to start

canelshop

My 2004TXT PDS Freedom SE is having an intermittent problem. Most of time everything works fine, but sometime when I push the pedal, it starts to go then stops. I can re-push the pedal or hit the brake and then the pedal and it will start. This may happen 2 or 3 time a round. Thought it was a bad switch so replaced it under the floor. Did not fix it. Does anyone have an idea what is happening? I'm not near a EZGO shop and usually do repairs myself.

BGW

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pday

same problem with my 2007 TXT Freedom. I hear the clicking but no go. Any ideas?

canelshop

Still looking for help! Anybody!

JohnnieB

Connect DVM between B- and M- terminals on controller (M- is labeled A1 on PDS controllers).
Press throttle until solenoid fist clicks.
You should have FULL battery pack voltage.

If not, you have an open or high resistance in the high current loop. (Everything the heavy cables attach to)

If so, slowly press throttle pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly decrease to Zero.

If not, either the throttle input to controller is bad or the controller is bad.

canelshop

Thanks JohnnieB, I'll try that and let you and others know the result.

canelshop

Everything checked out OK. Did full troubleshooting from repair manual. Only thing out of spec was In test 13( voltage between Controller F1 & Controller F2. Voltage at half pedal was 2.3 but went to 6 volts at full pedal. Spec is 2.7+-0.5 volts. Anyone know what is means?

JohnnieB

I'm not entirely sure what that means.
The voltage to the field windings is higher than expected, so I think the controller is telling the sepex motor to generate more torque for the RPM it is spinning at, but I might be wrong.

Within limitations, a sepex (SEParately EXcited) motor can be altered from being a high torque motor into being a high speed motor by altering the ratio of current flow through the field and armature windings. The process is called field mapping and is done by the controller.

Is Test-13 being done exactly as stated and implied in the troubleshooting tree?
a. Rear tires off ground spinning freely.
b. F1&F2 cables connected to both motor and controller terminals.
c. DVM measuring at controller end of cables.

If not, the test results would not be valid.

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Also, the problem is intermittent, so voltages and other measurements while the cart is running normally doesn't tell us much. The readings when the cart is misbehaving will, but getting them will be difficult.

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I'd clean & tighten the connections on both end of F1 and F2 cables. Use a second wrench on the lower nut on the motor studs so they don't turn. If they turn, bad things can happen inside motor.

Also, check for worn insulation. Where they are routed around the battery frames is a wear point. See attached picture.

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Another thing to try is running cart in diagnostic mode and noting the beep codes when cart misbehaves.

Attached Images

Worn field wire insulation.jpg (593.6 KB, 0 views)

canelshop

What do I do if controller is bad? Is it serviceable? Are there aftermarket controllers that are cheaper than EZGO parts? Any help is welcome. Cart is getting worse.

JohnnieB

Most any of the BGW Site Sponsors sell controllers for less than what EZGO does.

FSIP sells new and re-manufactured stock controllers: http://www.fsip.biz/NewGolfCurtis.html

Carts Unlimited sells aftermarket controller/solenoid kits: http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html
I have the #808B kit (Same as 808, but with a Super Duty solenoid rather than the Heavy Duty)

canelshop

Do you have a recommendation on a replacement? I use the cart for golf only.