Cart Will Not Go

BobR9 · 06-20-2013, 02:08 PM

2002 36 Volt EZGO cart. Cart will not go and batteries are fine. I think it is a switch problem as I have had this issue before on an intermittent basis. For example, cart suddenly stops moving, then after playing with the forward/reverse switch a couple of times it goes again.

This time I backed it out of the garage, no problem, went about 20 feet and stopped, no problem, then it would not go. Playing with forward/reverse switch does no good. My question is this: assuming batteries and battery connections are good, what is most logical sequence to troubleshoot this problem and are there any known failure modes that have these symptoms that are common to this model and age cart? Thanks for your help....Bob

Sir Nuke · 06-20-2013, 02:25 PM

what the guys will really need to know would exactly which model you have and its drive system. if you don't know..... look at the thread below and you can easily figure out which you have.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

kgsc · 06-20-2013, 02:32 PM

We do need to know which drive system but I'm guessing FNR switch on the dash ?? PDS cart. Do you get a solenoid clunk when you press the pedal ? If not, it could be the reed switch has gone bad in the charger socket. On the red wire coming out of the charge plug there should be 36+ volts between that red wire and the battery pack ground

BobR9 · 06-20-2013, 02:36 PM

OK, looks like I have the Sepex with PDS (forward/reverse switch on the dash)

BobR9 · 06-20-2013, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgsc

Do you get a solenoid clunk when you press the pedal ? If not, it could be the reed switch has gone bad in the charger socket. On the red wire coming out of the charge plug there should be 36+ volts between that red wire and the battery pack ground

I do get the solenoid clunk when the pedal is pressed and I have the 36+ volts between the red wire and ground.

kgsc · 06-20-2013, 02:52 PM

Well at this point it sounds like the activation circuit is working. I would flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow and check all the heavy wires and make sure they have a good connection. Also check the white and black smaller wires going back to the motor and especially at the pass side rear of the battery pack where it makes that turn. The wires can get worn there. If you do all that and no go. Make sure it is in Tow again.. You will need to pull off the controller cover and check the solenoid itself. It may have failed

BobR9 · 06-20-2013, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgsc

Well at this point it sounds like the activation circuit is working. I would flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow and check all the heavy wires and make sure they have a good connection. Also check the white and black smaller wires going back to the motor and especially at the pass side rear of the battery pack where it makes that turn. The wires can get worn there. If you do all that and no go. Make sure it is in Tow again.. You will need to pull off the controller cover and check the solenoid itself. It may have failed

OK, I will check this out as you have outlined. Out of curiosity, what is the reason for putting it in the Tow position? Also, if I need to check the solenoid, how do I do that? Thanks again...

kgsc · 06-21-2013, 09:03 AM

Putting the cart in the Tow position cuts the power to the controller.

I would jack up the rear of the cart to keep it from running over anyone first. Then to test the solenoid you will have to pull the cover and you may want to disconnect a main battery cable. Now look to see the condition of the resistor going across the main terminals. Does it looked burned ? To test the solenoid, disconnect the main lug wire that goes to the controller and remove the resistor connection from that end so nothing is on that lug. Make sure all your wires are in a safe position and not touching something they shouldn't, hook the main battery cable back up and flip the switch to Run. When you press the pedal there should be a clunk of the solenoid and 36 volts across the small terminals. There should also be 36 volts from each side of the main lugs back to the neg wire of the main battery pack.

If you don't have the 36 at the small lugs, you have an activation circuit issue and the solenoid would be quiet. If you don't have it on both main lugs with the resistor removed, the solenoid is bad.

BobR9 · 06-21-2013, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgsc

Putting the cart in the Tow position cuts the power to the controller.

Now look to see the condition of the resistor going across the main terminals. Does it looked burned ? To test the solenoid, disconnect the main lug wire that goes to the controller and remove the resistor connection from that end so nothing is on that lug. Make sure all your wires are in a safe position and not touching something they shouldn't, hook the main battery cable back up and flip the switch to Run. When you press the pedal there should be a clunk of the solenoid and 36 volts across the small terminals. There should also be 36 volts from each side of the main lugs back to the neg wire of the main battery pack.

If you don't have the 36 at the small lugs, you have an activation circuit issue and the solenoid would be quiet. If you don't have it on both main lugs with the resistor removed, the solenoid is bad.

OK, I have the cover off and so far everything looks like brand new. The resistor does not look burned. When you say to disconnect the main lug wire that goes to the controller, are you referring to the fattest black cable that is at the top of the controller (along with two other smaller black cables and two much smaller black and white wires), or are you referring to the cable on the solenoid itself where the resistor is connected?

kgsc · 06-22-2013, 08:52 AM

On the solenoid itself. One side of the solenoid will have the battery cable coming from the pack. You want to disconnect the wire going to the controller. Your trying to check to see if you get 36 volts to the controller side of the solenoid.

06-20-2013, 02:08 PM	#1
BobR9 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 5	Cart Will Not Go 2002 36 Volt EZGO cart. Cart will not go and batteries are fine. I think it is a switch problem as I have had this issue before on an intermittent basis. For example, cart suddenly stops moving, then after playing with the forward/reverse switch a couple of times it goes again. This time I backed it out of the garage, no problem, went about 20 feet and stopped, no problem, then it would not go. Playing with forward/reverse switch does no good. My question is this: assuming batteries and battery connections are good, what is most logical sequence to troubleshoot this problem and are there any known failure modes that have these symptoms that are common to this model and age cart? Thanks for your help....Bob
BobR9 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 5

06-20-2013, 02:25 PM	#2
Sir Nuke Master of All Things Join Date: May 2013 Location: West Columbia, Texas Posts: 17,969	Re: Cart Will Not Go what the guys will really need to know would exactly which model you have and its drive system. if you don't know..... look at the thread below and you can easily figure out which you have. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html

06-20-2013, 02:32 PM	#3
kgsc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 13,124	Re: Cart Will Not Go We do need to know which drive system but I'm guessing FNR switch on the dash ?? PDS cart. Do you get a solenoid clunk when you press the pedal ? If not, it could be the reed switch has gone bad in the charger socket. On the red wire coming out of the charge plug there should be 36+ volts between that red wire and the battery pack ground

06-20-2013, 02:36 PM	#4
BobR9 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 5	Re: Cart Will Not Go OK, looks like I have the Sepex with PDS (forward/reverse switch on the dash)
BobR9 Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 5

06-20-2013, 02:52 PM	#6
kgsc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 13,124	Re: Cart Will Not Go Well at this point it sounds like the activation circuit is working. I would flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow and check all the heavy wires and make sure they have a good connection. Also check the white and black smaller wires going back to the motor and especially at the pass side rear of the battery pack where it makes that turn. The wires can get worn there. If you do all that and no go. Make sure it is in Tow again.. You will need to pull off the controller cover and check the solenoid itself. It may have failed

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06-21-2013, 09:03 AM	#8
kgsc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 13,124	Re: Cart Will Not Go Putting the cart in the Tow position cuts the power to the controller. I would jack up the rear of the cart to keep it from running over anyone first. Then to test the solenoid you will have to pull the cover and you may want to disconnect a main battery cable. Now look to see the condition of the resistor going across the main terminals. Does it looked burned ? To test the solenoid, disconnect the main lug wire that goes to the controller and remove the resistor connection from that end so nothing is on that lug. Make sure all your wires are in a safe position and not touching something they shouldn't, hook the main battery cable back up and flip the switch to Run. When you press the pedal there should be a clunk of the solenoid and 36 volts across the small terminals. There should also be 36 volts from each side of the main lugs back to the neg wire of the main battery pack. If you don't have the 36 at the small lugs, you have an activation circuit issue and the solenoid would be quiet. If you don't have it on both main lugs with the resistor removed, the solenoid is bad.

06-22-2013, 08:52 AM	#10
kgsc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 13,124	Re: Cart Will Not Go On the solenoid itself. One side of the solenoid will have the battery cable coming from the pack. You want to disconnect the wire going to the controller. Your trying to check to see if you get 36 volts to the controller side of the solenoid.

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