JohnnieB's sleeper build - Part-2

JohnnieB

Decided to start a new thread instead of resurrecting the one from last fall.

At long last, I finally got the DCX400 controller installed.
I've still got to replace the six T-105's with seven GC-145's, but it runs well at 36V.

No major problems with the install, other than I had to do it with the heatsink in the cart.
My plan was to take it out, but the bolts were seized and I didn't want to break them off.
I didn't want the solenoid obstructing the programming port, so I used stock solenoid mounting bracket to mount it lower and getting one of the bolts in, was a lot of fun.

Mounting solenoid lower, makes it protrude forward more and much of the space I was planning on stashing a small 12V battery in, is gone.
Looks like I'll have to use a DC converter.

Also, wanted to keep the front clear, so I ran all the cables I could behind the heatsink.
Here are a couple pictures of how it looks.

I checked, double-checked and re-checked the wiring, so it fired up when I flipped the switches.

I haven't had a chance to wring it out yet, but took it for a short (2.5 Mile) hop to see what it would do powered by some batteries going on four years old (Date code L9) that would only charge to 85% when I got the cart.
I did,'t have much in the way of level ground to check the speed, but going up a slight rise it did 23 and going down it, it did 25 (GPS), so I suspect it'll do about 24MPH on level ground.

The batteries are sort of sick, so it was easy to load them down to 32V on hills, but they stayed up around 35V on the small inclines.
However, the batteries are definitely sick.

Surprisingly, the motor is running cooler.
The trip I took is what I use to get rid of the surface charge for battery testing and I've monitored motor temp on it several times.
In Mild Hill mode, it peaks about 150°F, but it only climbed to 120°F with the DCX. (Both have regen braking)

In the next few days, I ought to be able to take it on a trip with more interesting terrain.
The motor used to climb to nearly 200°F on the 10.5 miles of hilly roads I use for testing, wonder what it will do now.


Over the next few weeks, I'll be doing some comparison testing and will post results here.

Attached Images

	DCX Installed-1.jpg (891.0 KB, 0 views)
	DCX Installed-2.jpg (893.7 KB, 0 views)

BGW

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sportcoupe

I wish alltrax would have made the RS232 programming port USB and moved it up top like on their SPM controllers so the solenoid could go up higher.

I like your idea on routing cables behind the heatsink, I will be stealing that idea soon.

23 mph on a slight uphill is great. Nice job.

yurtle

You used a fuse on your high amperage circuit???

Glad to see you got it on the road. Feels good when it cranks right up.

JGDUSC

Lookin good JB bringin back some memories for me of my install last winter.

JohnnieB

Ironically, with a stock PDS controller, I never used to slow down on it.

That is because the controller backs off on the PWM duty cycle to limit the motor RPM and until the incline ss great enough to exceed what the cart can maintain at 100% duty cycle, the speed doesn't slow. Sort of like a cruise control.

JohnnieB

1. For the time being.
Once I get it up to 42V and feel comfortable with the setup, it might disappear.
I'll be clipping a DVM across it in the next few days and monitoring the voltage drop it introduces into the circuit.
If it is too much, it'll get disappeared sooner.

2. Admittedly, I did breath a sigh of relief as the LED blinked green for times and then came on solid.
I probably spent as much time checking and rechecking as I did installing, but being careful usually pays off.

----------
Question for you.
Short of making a half seat out of plywood or something, do you know of any way to tell if the led goes to yellow? (Meaning: Full throttle - Not in current limit)

I could lift the rear wheels off the ground and floor it when the seat is off, but I hate to spin the motor that fast.

kernal

Gopro or maybe a smart phone? Would only need a few seconds of video. Might have to rig up a temporary light source. Just a thought.

yurtle

RATS! I just tossed a bunch of fiber-optic patch cables. Something like that should work. Maybe even try mono-filament fishing line.

yurtle

Gotta admit, adding "fiber-optic controller status monitoring" to your sig would be BADA$$.

yurtle

In case I wasn't clear, I've seen lots of things that have LEDs on a circuit board, and use plastic to transmit the light to the outside of its case. And I'm sure everyone's seen those desktop lights with what looks like mono-filament fishing lines, transmitting different colored lights to their tips.

Just find a suitable "conduit" for the light, mount it in front of the LED, and somewhere on the dash.