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Unread 09-14-2008, 12:58 PM   #11
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

If you are asking about the part in your fingers that is the reverse buzzer.
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Unread 09-14-2008, 01:22 PM   #12
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

Yes, the reverse buzzer melted because of the Forward/Reverse assembly overheated.

The assembly will have to be taken apart and checked. It's part of the cam assembly that operates the micro switches.

You can see where it has overheated on the back side of the assembly in the photos.

You can get to where you need to be by removing the center nut of the assembly shown in the photo, and also remove the bolt ot nut on the front side where thr lever and rod is connected from the direction handle. Youll see brass bars & contact buttons burned up when you do. They can be sanded or ground to operate smoothly together unless they need replacing. Lube the shaft assembly when reassembling.
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Unread 09-14-2008, 01:36 PM   #13
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paxdad View Post
Another item to keep in the back of your mind is that the cart is not intended to be run under full pedal for an extended period of time.
This bit of science is inacuurate. In fact, it's pure baloney. Please explain which components will fail from long periods of WOT and the reasons they will fail. It's not an argument, it's simply a fact check.
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Unread 09-14-2008, 03:23 PM   #14
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

I think the reverse buzzer melted due to the black wire touching a motor wire (see photo number 1). I don't think anything heated up because the assembly wasn't hot. I noticed the discoloration on the main assembly but that I believe is old because like I said It wasn't hot. The electrics on the opposite side appear in good condition. The reverse buzzer is unecessary, I believe, so I will try running it without and see if it is the forward/reverse assembly that is malfunctioning or if it was just the reverse buzzer. It may be a good idea to replace the motor wires anyway. I also noticed the wood for the seat bottom is partiallty rotten at the hinges and handle bolts so I will be replacing that tonight.

Thanks for your help, I will let you know the results.
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Unread 09-14-2008, 05:38 PM   #15
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

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Originally Posted by Paxdad View Post
Another item to keep in the back of your mind is that the cart is not intended to be run under full pedal for an extended period of time.
I run my 36v 2001 ezgo txt 7" lift w/ 25" alltrails at WOT on mild terrain for 35-45 min at a time with no problem with heat. I am pretty anal about CLEAN AND TIGHT CONNECTIONS though. I still have the stock electrical setup, except I just upgraded to 4ga wires throughout.
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Unread 09-14-2008, 10:43 PM   #16
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by gornoman View Post
This bit of science is inacuurate. In fact, it's pure baloney. Please explain which components will fail from long periods of WOT and the reasons they will fail. It's not an argument, it's simply a fact check.
Lets look at the facts: Poorly maintained system components generate heat. Heat is detrimental to the system over extended periods of time. Starting with the number one battery positve post and ending with the the motor should just about cover the specific components that will fail. Most likely it is the components where anomolies exist with flow ie. the f/r on fleet cars and subsuquently that heat transfer to the controller which penetrates the controller internals through the connections. This is not baloney or rocket science but, fact from first hand observation from the 200 plus controllers that I have taken apart and repaired/ upgraded/ and placed back in service on powered industrial lift trucks.


So Otter 70 is what you are saying is that you never lift you foot off the pedal the entire 35-40 minutes?? That must be one straight trail and very smooth. I agree and the point I am making is that the system integerity is paramount to its life. Where I live and operate my cart is extremely hilly and does not allow for much flat land cruising. I usually save that for Myrtle Beach.
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Unread 09-15-2008, 09:01 AM   #17
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

Well after tightening the connection on the forward/reverse assembly, I took it for a test drive. After riding for about fifteen minutes again at varying speeds, the wires going from the f/r assembly began to heat up again. I guess I will replace the f/r assembly ($115) in stock at a local shop. I will replace the ends of the wires also. The battery wires are only one year old, so those will stay. I hope this fixes the issue.
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Unread 09-15-2008, 08:41 PM   #18
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

Its better to run the cart at w.o.t. especially reistor carts(the old ones) If you just fart around its worse than gassing it.
For less than 50$ you could rebuild that f and r switch.

Check for burnt cable ends if there corroded clean them and sand them till it looks new again, unless they are badly corroded then you should replace them. No reason for blowing money that could easily be saved.
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Unread 09-16-2008, 11:06 AM   #19
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

I drive my 04 from Garden City peir to Ocean lakes campground which is 6 1/2 miles each way. I pretty much drive it wide open all the way except for stop signs and people getting in my way. It does heat up but it hasn't ever failed me yet.
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Unread 09-16-2008, 11:18 AM   #20
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Default Re: Hot, Hot, Hot

Andy,
I have driven my the same distance WOT and it does not heat up either. Then again I have HD buss bars, 4 ga wires, HD solenoid, and so on. All of which are in primo condition as I am sure your cart is in the same shape. Its the carts that are not maintained that I keep referring too. Flat ground sure helps as well.
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