Batteries lacking the power

Martee48

Need some help. Problem, batteries not lasting as long as they once did.
EZGO J498 1119391 golf cart. Batteries are Interstate that are 6 weeks old.

Currently the SoC Meter after a full charge only has the far two left leds flashing. Have disconnect the Positive and Negative leads from the battery, but still the SoC Meter will not reset.

After a Charging Cycle, about 8 hours inactive:

Total Bat Pak – 38.4
Battery 1 - 6.43
Battery 2 - 6.41
Battery 3 - 6.43
Battery 4 - 6.41
Battery 5 - 6.43
Battery 6 - 6.42

SoC Meter – at best 3rd led from left lite.

Have taken it for a 10 minute ride and then checked each battery (disconnected) with a Battery Load Tester and all read good.

Now after several attempts to recharge, I took the unit for a ride. After 3 miles over hilly terrain, the total voltage was 37.8. Monitored voltage during riding where it went from 38.4 to 34.6 (up a significant grade where it started at 36.1). I ended up driving for almost 1 hour, covering a little more than 5 miles on uneven terrain with a few significant grades.

When putting it on the charger, within 5 minutes the Battery Pack went from 37.6 to 39.8 while the charger was still above 20 amps. (Note I have swapped out charging units only to discover the unit is good, it charged another cart up no problem while mine still didn’t get the full charge).

I could assume the SoC is bad (read enough post here where posters don’t like them) but that still doesn’t explain the loss of power under load. It is like one or two cells are bad/marginal but I for the life of me can’t figure out how to identify them.

Short of taking all the batteries out and back to the store for testing, any ideas?

Thanks.

Oops, I should point out that up until 10 days ago, all was fine with the cart, etc. A small accident happened, the cart rolled down a steep hill and off into a creek. Now there was only 2 inches of water in the creek. The cart did sustain some damage, the rear driver leaf spring needed replaced. Everything else seemed okay, including the SoC indication.
6 weeks when the batteries were replaced, 3 cables were replaced as well that were questionable, but all worked great until last week.
I couldn't find anything else damaged in the accident, not even a scratch.

BGW

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scottginfla

scroll down one post http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-48v-pack.html

Martee48

I am sorry, I don't understand your post. I did read the thread before I posted, not sure what I missed. The chart referenced was nice but as I understand it, the readings are for the system just sitting there. Individually and in total my voltage numbers seem to match up but my performance after a short time is poor.

Oh, I was using the 6 volt/36 volt columns to match my cart.

I did find the chart very helpful.

What am I missing?

JohnnieB

The serial number posted doesn't return any info on the ezgo site, so we don't know what type drive system you have, Series or DCS.
http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

From what I could decipher, you have 3 issues.
1. Run-time less after the cart rolled down the hill and into the shallow creek.
2. Battery charger not fully charging batteries .
3. LED Bar graph type SoC meter is lying to you.

The easy one first. Replace the LED bar graph meter with a DVM type.

-------
The At-Rest voltages posted indicate the charger is charging the batteries. Might be a little low since the batteries are new.
Cleaning the radsoks in the charge receptacle and plug as well as the connectors on the white and black cables from receptacle to the pack, might up that a little.
What is the max On-Charge voltage reached?
What make/model of charger.

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Run Time
Sounds like the cart took some pretty good thumps on the way down the hill. Does it roll freely when pushed by hand?
Check for cut insulation where the cables are routed around battery box frame.

The At-Rest voltages on the individual batteries look okay.
What are they after are ran for several miles?

Martee48

After 15 minutes, about 2 miles plus on uneven terrain

Total Bat Pak – 38.2
Battery 1 - 6.39
Battery 2 - 6.39
Battery 3 - 6.35
Battery 4 - 6.37
Battery 5 - 6.37
Battery 6 - 6.38

What is the max On-Charge voltage reached? Haven't seen that, the cart is at the course so I am not monitoring constantly. Now I can see today after running it around, when I placed in the charger less than 1 hour the voltage while charging had reached 40.9.

What make/model of charger.
Powerwise / 28115-G04

I was bummed out that the serial number didn't show up. The best I can tell is that it is 'Series' given the diagrams shown here and how they match the cart.

Beleive it or not the ride down the hill, though it was fast, it was smooth till it came to a stop and only the rear tires got wet. looking at it, someone just parked a cart by the creek is what it looked liked. Still not a good thing. Cart rolls freely, in fact as I said if you didn't know it had rolled backwards down the hill into the creek, you wouldn't, not a scratch.

I will look over all the cables again.

Okay for me to make this post with the voltages I had to go back to the course and get my papers, left them in the cart. Of course I left my tools at home, duh. But I noticed the charger was sitting at about 1 amp (started charging arount 10 AM today). So I pulled the chargers, turn the key and of course that **** SoC meter is reading 'Full Charge' the far right led lite. Go figure. I don't believe it is fixed, tomorrow I will be taking it our for 18 if not 36 so that will be the test. I will take the tow straps and I have the ability to monitor the pack while driving so I will do this.

Have ordered a Dvm.

This be frustrating.

JohnnieB

The Mfg code (J498 ) says it is a 1998 model.
If it has a metal body, it is Medalist.
If it has a plastic body, it is a TXT
If it has a Run/Tow switch on the controller cover, it has a DCS drive (Sepex motor)
If not it is a series drive (series wound motor)

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The voltages after a couple miles appear to be good.

If your charger (PW 28115) is working right, it shuts off when the On-Charge voltage climbs into the 44V-46V range.
Based on the voltages and amps posted, it appears to be working right.
It has a taper charge profile with limited initial current, so it starts out at about 20A initially and the current starts tapering off as the On-Charge voltage climbs above about 40V.

The PW 28115 does not have a battery maintainer mode, so once it shuts off, the batteries begin to self discharge at about 1% SoC per day.
If you unplug charger from cart and then plug it back in, it will top off the battery pack's charge in a few minutes.

New batteries take a long time to charge, so being at 1A after 5 hours on charge doesn't wave a red flag. Of course, how long it takes them to charge depends on how much the had been discharged.

-----------

Let us know what the voltages are after a round or two.

Martee48

The Mfg code (J498 ) says it is a 1998 model. YUP
If it has a metal body, it is Medalist. NOPE
If it has a plastic body, it is a TXT MAYBE, Has Freedome on Body
If it has a Run/Tow switch on the controller cover, it has a DCS drive (Sepex motor) NOPE
If not it is a series drive (series wound motor) Agree it Series

Okay, stated out with the previously reported voltages, SoC indicating Full Charge.

5 Holes, 40 minutes and the SoC was down to the far left two leds blinking.

Pissed.

Talked with Battery Distributor. Said bring them in after a charge. Did so, forgot to measure the voltages before charging, was a bit miffed. Anyway pulled the batteries and took them in. They checked them, they were fully charged, the static voltage was good. Under load, they passed, barely.

So we talked, they offered to give me 6 new batteries. So they are installed, a quick zip around the course and now being charged. Tomorrow is the day.

Oh, with the new batteries installed, the SoC meter still wouldn't reset even after the batteries being out of cart for 2 hours.

I have taken the 'Red' wire off the Battery Terminal (+) which as I understand goes directly to the SoC Meter. I also took it for a 30 minute spin and checked the overall battery pack voltage, it was 37.2 down from 37.4 which was at initial install.

Maybe, just Maybe its the SoC Meter. Next step if batteries hold will be to drill out the rivets and replace it.

Here is hoping.

Sir Nuke

Martee48, regardless if the batteries check out or not, do yourself a favor and get a REAL Digital SoC

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Digita...ry_Meters.html

JohnnieB

It is a little late, but go to this website and read everything that has the word "Battery" in the title. Tons of good info.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Batter...n_Methods.html

Martee48

Ouch is right . They told me I should be ready to roll when I installed them.

Now I guess I should point out the initial zip around was about 1.5 miles at best. The 30 minute was following my normal golf group, stop go but it did involve the steepest part of the course which I had to go to on to get to the cart barn.

Am reading.

Since I don’t have the SoC connected I guess I will need to connect the volt meter to get an idea of where I am at while driving it tomorrow. Oh, since the batteries were out I took the opportunity to check all the wiring in that area to the rear bumper. All looked good. Rear Bumper tomorrow.

The more I look at the diagrams the more I wonder what else it could be. It seems that the Reverse Beeper is the only active component when the key is off. The SoC could create problems with the key off if I am reading the wiring right.

Can’t see the motor being the problem, I say this since even with just the key on the SoC would over time show a change with the cart just sitting there. But what do I know at this point, obviously I didn’t know about the batteries.