Solonoid voltage

l_cubed · 09-22-2008, 08:09 PM

Next struggle on the rebuild.
I have all the batteries in place...good 36V+, wired up the switch...perfect so far. Check forward, check reverse...yup all is good. I added a voltage reducer to power the 12V lights...still good to go. Now to add the power meter. It is "3-in-1 Monitoring Unit" (I don't really need to know the temperature or hours 'on', but it is cool). What I do want is the battery power level.

So I get this thing and it comes with a primitive diagram
black == ground
brown == 36V
red == 48V
green == some warning buzzer, who cares
white == switched power.

Nothing spectacular in terms of what each lead needs. I stub off the green and red, and hook up the black to ground, the brown to a full 36V and the white to the hot side of the key switch...nothing.

l_cubed · 09-22-2008, 08:15 PM

I am able to hook white directly to 36V and it works great, but that is a constant 36V and I need switched.

So I dug out the volt meter and see that the voltage at the key is minimal < 1V.

I figured that would be ok and I would grab key switched 36V elsewhere. However I'm not sure where I can pick-up 36V key switched. I can't grab on the motor side of the solonoid because there is a microswitch mounted on the accelerator wiper board that only allows power once the pedal is depressed.

Any ideas ?

By the way, it is a 1988 EZ-GO Marathon, 3 wheeler

Updated pics to follow later tonight, for those interested in the progress

gornoman · 09-22-2008, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_cubed

.......and the white to the hot side of the key switch...nothing.

Try the white lead on the SWITCHED side of the keyswitch.

l_cubed · 09-22-2008, 08:52 PM

Yeah, I tried that too...nothing. It is acting as if the meter wants 36V and the key switch lead is < 1V

gornoman · 09-23-2008, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l_cubed

I am able to hook white directly to 36V and it works great, but that is a constant 36V and I need switched.

So I dug out the volt meter and see that the voltage at the key is minimal < 1V.

What is the voltage on this terminal when you turn the key ON?

l_cubed · 09-23-2008, 08:33 PM

gornoman · 09-23-2008, 08:58 PM

Is the cart in GEAR when you are testing this? My cart needs the cart IN GEAR and the KEY ON for the meter to turn on via the key circuit.

l_cubed · 09-23-2008, 09:20 PM

I just got done bypassing the microswitch at the accelerator board and now I have 15V at the switch, and hearing the solenoid clicking noticable (I didn't before). So there is one more Microswitch in the circuit...can these really be dropping the voltage that much? Should they?

09-22-2008, 08:09 PM	#1
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13	Solonoid voltage Next struggle on the rebuild. I have all the batteries in place...good 36V+, wired up the switch...perfect so far. Check forward, check reverse...yup all is good. I added a voltage reducer to power the 12V lights...still good to go. Now to add the power meter. It is "3-in-1 Monitoring Unit" (I don't really need to know the temperature or hours 'on', but it is cool). What I do want is the battery power level. So I get this thing and it comes with a primitive diagram black == ground brown == 36V red == 48V green == some warning buzzer, who cares white == switched power. Nothing spectacular in terms of what each lead needs. I stub off the green and red, and hook up the black to ground, the brown to a full 36V and the white to the hot side of the key switch...nothing.
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13

09-22-2008, 08:15 PM	#2
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13	Re: Solonoid voltage I am able to hook white directly to 36V and it works great, but that is a constant 36V and I need switched. So I dug out the volt meter and see that the voltage at the key is minimal < 1V. I figured that would be ok and I would grab key switched 36V elsewhere. However I'm not sure where I can pick-up 36V key switched. I can't grab on the motor side of the solonoid because there is a microswitch mounted on the accelerator wiper board that only allows power once the pedal is depressed. Any ideas ? By the way, it is a 1988 EZ-GO Marathon, 3 wheeler Updated pics to follow later tonight, for those interested in the progress
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13

09-22-2008, 08:52 PM	#4
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13	Re: Solonoid voltage Yeah, I tried that too...nothing. It is acting as if the meter wants 36V and the key switch lead is < 1V
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13

09-23-2008, 08:33 PM	#6
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13	Re: Solonoid voltage <1V
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13

09-23-2008, 08:58 PM	#7
gornoman Stay thirsty my friends! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Suburban Chicago Posts: 24,284	Re: Solonoid voltage Is the cart in GEAR when you are testing this? My cart needs the cart IN GEAR and the KEY ON for the meter to turn on via the key circuit.

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09-23-2008, 09:20 PM	#8
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13	Re: Solonoid voltage I just got done bypassing the microswitch at the accelerator board and now I have 15V at the switch, and hearing the solenoid clicking noticable (I didn't before). So there is one more Microswitch in the circuit...can these really be dropping the voltage that much? Should they?
l_cubed Not Yet Wild Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 13

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