Need help rebuilding motor

cyclebender

I just purchased a 2000 TXT 36 volt series cart that had been setting outside for years. After cleaning it up and replacing all the rusty parts, I tried to get the cart to run. I had a good set of batteries (one year old) that I installed. Jacked up the rear, and pressed the accelerator. The wheels turned, but absolutely no torque at all. The battery pack read 37.8 volts. I by passed the controller, and wired the motor direct. Same results, motor ran, but no torque, not enough to move the cart. Thinking it may not have enough voltage, I wired in another battery to bring the voltage up to 42 volts. Again, same results. I removed the motor, and opened it up. Found considerable amount of corrosion and rust on armature. I would like to rebuild the motor myself, but I can’t get the armature separated from the end cap. How is the armature attached to the rear bearing, and is the bearing pressed into the end cap? if so, how much pressure is required to separate? Can I prop up the motor and tap the bearing out, or do I need to go to a machine shop and have the bearing pressed out? Help is greatly appreciated. By the way, the batteries are 8 volt Crown CR 165’s. Any real problem using five (5) of these batteries to run the cart? How much voltage can I run without burning something up? Eventually I intent to upgrade the controller, solenoid and cables. Thanks again

BGW

__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum

yurtle

Instructions are found in the Service manual, found in the stickies. I used a heat gun, and a little tapping with a plastic mallet, using wood or a socket (I forget) to protect it. Granted mine wasn't rusty, but it came apart pretty easily.

Owner's, Parts, and Service Manuals:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

Sir Nuke

I'm confused......you said that you have 5-8v batteries in the cart, but you put in another to bring the voltage up to 42v.....that math does not compute. the first 5 brings it up to 40v.....the additional battery brings it up to 48v.

NOW, if your are going to just use the cables MINUS the controller (bypass it) for some testing, you would be ok. but if you put the 36v controller in the mix....it won't be long for this world and the magic smoke will begin to escape.

as the motor goes, can you see a tag/label in the motor with the make and model number on it? and or possible take some good clear pictures of it? that will help us determine exactly what you have. seeing as there are multiple different motors that could be in your cart, even if its stock.

cyclebender

Thanks for your response. The voltage was obtained using a 36 volt charger, that all it would charge before it shut off. Did you mean that using more voltage than 36 volts would fry the controller or did you say that using 48 volts would fry the controlled? How much voltage do you think would be too much.? The motor is from Advanced, model #A95-4005A Another response indicated that I should be able to just tap the bearing out of the end cap. I think I'll try that. Thanks again.

cgtech

Some have a hidden snap-ring at the bearing, inside the cap.

rib33024

How about the battery thing again, you are running WHAT, in your first post you say, ( The battery pack read 37.8 volts) what batteries did you have in the cart and how many? to get 37.8 volts

yurtle

Yeah, I should have clarified that mine was AMD, which is a stock motor, and seemed to match all the manual. Mine was 1998 series, so yours may be different.

cyclebender

Batteries are Crown CR 165. Voltage was obtained using a 12 volt charger hooked to a pair of batteries in series. 6 batteries total. Then used a 36 volt golf cart charger on 5 batteries in series. Sounds complicated, but its not, very simple but time consuming.

Thatsme?

My series 36 volt had a snap ring as well as a removable cap to access pressing the bearing out. Hang on to the armature it isn't light.
I never have been able to ID the motor I have.

If the armature is corroded you have bigger problems. You need to take it to an electric motor shop so they can tell if the armature and commutator are good and look at the brushes.

yurtle

Pics would help. A green Scotch-Brite might fix the corrosion, or it could be be WAY too far gone to fix.

Info most won't want:

The rotor and stator are both composed of stacks of laminations that are supposed to be insulated from each other. They are a "special" steel alloy, and are coated in some kind of insulating material, similar to magnet wire. It controls eddy currents.

If the laminations are so far gone that they are corroded together, it may be toast.