Old EZ - GO WONT MOVE

Ant-Knee

Hello All,

I am trying to help out a friend of mine, He has an old e-z go golf cart, NOt sure on year I am gonna say late 80s or could be newer.. S# is 930910
Manuf # is C-1896..


Well the cart ran fine 6 days ago.. He parked the cart to get some water and came back out and it would not move when he went to go.. The cart just stopped.. He said it is probably the sylinoid so he changed it but no luck..

I have looked it over a little bit to see if it had blown a fuse or something, could find a blown fuse.. Is there a main fuse I should check? Wasnt able to find one tho.. Batteries are fairly new and have 6V. Each

Any help is appreciated,

Thanks,

Ant...

BGW

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radioman

It looks like the top big center lug on the controller is not tight plus there is no pre-charge 250 ohm resistor across the big solenoid lugs which can lead to early solenoid contact failure. Does the solenoid click when the pedal is depressed? Is there battery voltage on both big terminals shown in solenoid picture when it clicks ?? Need more info. There is not a fuse in these big high current wires. Is there voltage on the small solenoid terminal with the red wire when the key switch is on and pedal is depressed? Also there is usually a diode across the small terminals to clamp voltage spikes and it is missing. Make voltage measurements referenced from battery - . What is the total battery plus to minus voltage?

Ant-Knee

The wires are tight...The solenoid Does Not click when the pedal is depressed.. Nothing makes a peep..
Each battery has 6.4 V. I will check for voltage at the solenoid red wires when I press the pedal..
Ill report back...

Thanks,

Ant...

radioman

Look in the Stickes section bottom one 'Basic EZGO Electric Golf cart diagrams and manuals'. Scroll down to the 'Non DCS Golf cart wiring diagrams'. The solenoid red wire gets voltage to energize first through a interlock switch on the charging receptacle that should have battery + on it when the charger is not plugged in (this prevents driving the cart away with the charger plugged into the cart). Then Battery + is routed through a micro switch ms2 on the forward reverse switch as long as it is in position to go, then to the Key Switch and finally through another micro switch in the pedal box that closes when the pedal is pressed. The charger interlock switch is a good place to check, the small wire should have voltage on it and work your way through to the key switch. You apparently have a problem somewhere in this circuit.

When you get it running he needs to get a 250 ohm 5 watt resistor and connect it across the big terminals as shown in the stickies and a diode across the small terminals with polarity as shown.

JohnnieB

Here is a schematic with the solenoid activation circuit highlighted

Attached Images

Wiring Diagram - Series with KSI traced.JPG (58.9 KB, 0 views)

Ant-Knee

hello all,

I have a feeling the problem is in the pedal switch..

There is a red and green wire hooked to pedal switch..
I have 32.5V at the red wire, BUT I got -00.7 on the green wire...
Pedal pushed in or not... I am thinking when pedal is pushed the volts should go to the green wire..

I am thinking red is in and the green is out... Is this correct?


I am not very good with electrical, So bare with me here... If it was gas it would not be a problem.HEHE

I think the micron switch is bad..

Ant...

radioman

You are correct. A golf cart will confuse you even if you are experienced in electrical troubleshooting. Look at the little lever on the micro switch in the pedal box. It has a little roller looking thing on the end of it that rests on the end of the plunger when it is not pressed. If you got voltage on the red wire and none on the other, when you depress the pedal and the plunger moves, the switch lever should drop off of the end of the plunger and the switch should furnish voltage to the green wire measured from battery negative. If it doesn't the switch is defective. Another problem with the 32.5 volts you measured indicate your friend may have a set of nearly discharged batteries. One more simple check measure the voltage across the solenoid red and black wires. Voltage across the two indicates the solenoid should be energized when the pedal is depressed.

The switch in the pedal box uses what is called a normally closed (N.C.) contact arrangement. It opens when resting on the plunger and closes when the plunger releases it to its normal closed position. Out of the circuit and held in your hand the contacts should be closed.

Ant-Knee

Thank you for your help and others that had chimed in..

I will replace the pedal switch and I will also get the resisters for the solinoid... He said they were never on there to begin with..


I will update once we get switch and resisters..

I just ordered the switch,.. I need the resisters for the solinoid.. Anyone have part #s for these things??

Thanks again guys,

Ant...

Ant-Knee

Ok, I find the diode and resister, All parts are on the way... Hopefully this will get his cart going again..

30353-G1 - 3 Amp diode.

21764-G1 - Resister

Thanks again guys..

Ant...

radioman

Actually the pedal box micro switch wires is green in and red out according to the color code on the diagram but it makes no difference. Both should have voltage on them when the pedal is pushed.