EzGo DCS Smoke out of controller

canmannc

Afraid I know the answer but I'll ask the experts first
Pulled the cart off the charger yesterday...didn't drive it at all. Hopped on this morning went about 100 yrds and started smelling electronics burning, cart stopped when I looked under the seat smoke was coming out bottom of controller cover. I immediately turned the run/tow to tow/maintenance. Had the dear wife tow me home. Now some troubleshooting...pulled the controller cover, controller was hot to touch. I know I have been needing new batteries for a while but been putting it off. Battery pack voltage is 37.2. Individual batteries are 6.1.

Also reading 37.2 across solenoid, and from battery negative to all three large terminals on controller (B-, B+ and M). Disconnected the battery and checked continuity and have closed circuit across any combination of the 3 terminals. Sounds like a dead short inside the controller. Yep...I let the smoke out of it... Anything else I should check?

BGW

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tjequip

In my experience once you let the magic smoke out you can't get it back in.

yurtle

DCS controllers are known to die when run under voltage. The voltage you posted was likely while not running. If you know they're bad, they probably dropped while under load - running.

http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

sportcoupe

There is more then just the controller under the cover that can smoke. Wiring can smoke, so can solenoid, diode and resister. You have to know what smoked and why before you can fix it or it can happen again.

canmannc

I am afraid to switch back to run for troubleshooting. Should I go ahead and get a new controller and new batteries...If all terminals on the controller are reading dead short isn't it just gonna smoke it more if I reconnect the batteries?

canmannc

Thanks for all the ideas and assistance...
Since I fried my controller...

I just ordered an Alltrax DCS Replacement 300 amp Speed Controller NCX 300.
I'll also be installing a bank of new batteries. My cart is a 97 TXT DCS stock cart. My question is, Can I use the stock solenoid? Also can I use the stock solenoid resistor assembly? Should I check anything else before installing the new controller?

Thanks for all your help!

Joel

sportcoupe

Did you troubleshoot it to a bad controller? It could have been the solenoid or even a cable that smoked. If you are dead set on replacing controller definitely replace the solenoid with a HD one. Stock solenoids are worthless.

ScottyB can get you a complete controller and solenoid package, best price around.

scottyb

The 300 NCX is listed as a stock replacement with a manufacture's note not to use on modified carts with big tires or rear seat or off road.......we don't sell them.

canmannc

Thanks sportcoupe and scottyb.

I am sure it wasn't the cables, resistor or solenoid that smoked. With to controller disconnected the controller reads dead short across B+, B-, or M-. The cart is stock with no rear seat, lifted with slightly larger tires, used on asphalt flat roads around the neighborhood. Never had a problem with the stock controller for over ten years.

I did follow all the troubleshooting steps I could find on this forum for DCS cart. I have read all the threads I could find on DCS issues...That said I hope it was only the controller. It should be here in a couple days so I will let you know.

Thanks again!
Joel

canmannc

While I am waiting for new controller I decided to do some more troubleshooting. Found a couple things...the blue wire, pin 7 is always a ground. As soon as I hook it to solenoid the solenoid clicks. This is with tow/run in run position, in fwd or rev with key switch on. Even if the ITS is disconnected (4 pin connector at controller).
With the cart on jacks, in fwd, key on...
I hook the blue wire to controller, it clicks, I then depress the pedal and the wheel shudders and barely turns fwd. I give it a spin with my foot and it picks up speed. As long as I hold the pedal down it continues to go. Once it stops it will not start again unless I spin the wheel. Then I select reverse and same thing it will only go in fwd. I tried spinning wheel backward...it did not work...only in fwd. This cart has micro switches on F-N-R switch (lever by my right knee. There is no reverse diode. Tested the micro switches like this...in fwd I read battery voltage at yellow wire (pin 6) on 10 pin connector at controller. In reverse I read batt voltage at orange wire (pin 4).

Any ideas on what I should check next? I really appreciate any help trying to sort this out. Thanks, Joel

Update: Cart is a 1996 not 97...