|
Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
08-10-2014, 10:51 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 34
|
2003 PDS quit running
Ok have done a lot of reading on the forum about my cart not running. My cart is two hours from here at a cabin so I may end up bringing it home to work on. (takes up wife's parking space in garage). Ok here is what I know. Cart was going forward when it quit. Solenoid kicks in and out sometimes. What I mean I can put cart in reverse(switch is on dash) and hit gas and solenoid works. I can move it to forward and I have to hit the gas couple of times for solenoid to kick in. Battery pack reading 37 volts. How do I check the switches you guys are referring to like key switch, forward and reverse switch ( in reverse my back up buzzer does sound) and pedal micro switch? also how do I read this chart? http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...on-diagram.jpg Meaning do I take these voltage reading with the pins still pluged into the controller. Sorry to be so vague but I have to start somewhere and where I'm at I have no computer service so I will need to print out directions and know how to use them at cabin. Lets get started with the switches.
On the F/R switch I have three wires coming out of the back. Do I find these wires on the controller and pull the pin? with the pin pulled I will assume these wires are color coded and by placing the ohm meter probes on each end of wire check for continuity. This will only show me if a wire has a break, how do I tell if the switch is bad? Thanks Rick |
Today | |
Sponsored Links
__________________
This advertising will not be shown in this way to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Buggies Gone Wild Golf Cart Forum |
|
08-10-2014, 11:52 AM | #2 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
The PDS is a "Fly-by-Wire" drive system, meaning the controller does everything and the external switches and stuff, just tell the controller what you want it to do.
You can check all the switches by measuring the voltages on the backside of the plugs on the controller while they are plugged in. Just push the tip of the test lead in next to the wire that is attached to the pin. The Run/Tow switch is good, or the reverse beeper wouldn't sound, nor would the solenoid every energize. The reed switch is good, or the solenoid wouldn't click in either direction. The key and pedal switches and R position of F/R switch are good if the solenoid clicks every time the pedal is pushed in Reverse. The solenoid doesn't click every time the pedal is pushed when F/R is in F, so the F portion of the F/R switch could have a problem, but that won't stop the cart from moving in Reverse, or when the solenoid does click when in Forward. My guess is that you have a bad controller, but I'd still verify all the switches are working. Be sure to flip Run.Tow switch to Tow before disconnecting or reconnecting any electrical wiring. Here is a larger example of a PDS schematic with all the wires that need to have battery pack voltage on them to activate the solenoid highlighted. One thing to try is spray cleaning all the contacts in the various plugs. Don't forget the in-line connector between controller and pedal box, it causes a lot of mysterious problems. ----------- At 37V, your battery need to be charged, but is enough to close solenoid. --------- If the controller is bad, consider replacing it with an Alltrax DCX400 (or larger) That will up the top speed to about 24MPH on stock height tires with a 36V battery pack and up the torque by about a third. |
08-10-2014, 12:50 PM | #3 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
Gotta get your priorities right. My car and my wife's stay outside. Only my buggy gets to stay indoors.
|
08-10-2014, 12:56 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 34
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
JohnnieB lets talk about the schematic you posted. The way I understand this is to put cart in run mode and by leaving the volt meter - probe on battery negative, put volt meter + probe to backside of plug wires plugged into controller. By doing this I should have battery pack voltage to all wires showing in red reading voltage thru back of plug plugged into controller. This correct?
|
08-10-2014, 02:19 PM | #5 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
Quote:
|
|
08-17-2014, 03:01 PM | #6 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 34
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
Ok brought my cart home to work on it. Charged batteries last night and they were at 38.0 cables and post need cleaning. Took contact cleaner to controller and cart started working. Let my son drive cart around to make sure it wouldn't quit and a battery blew up when he was going up a hill. I know some are going say loose connection but I know they were all tight. 3.5 year old Trojans 105. Going buy the same battery one replace. Anything I need to look for or just a bad battery?
|
08-17-2014, 04:00 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 34
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
My son said when he raised the seat the positive terminal was liquified. It was the back battery on passenger side. Never had one to blow. Looking at that battery I hope I never have another to blow. Rick
|
08-17-2014, 04:21 PM | #8 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Rio Verde, Az
Posts: 7,121
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
Bad connection is what causes this! Only cause.
|
08-17-2014, 08:34 PM | #9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 34
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
I have always checked each nut before I lower the seat. I can't go back and know 100% if nut was tight but it's going to cost 130.00 anyway u look at it. we had washed and waxed the cart and sprayed the batteries with hose. maybe some crud came loose and made the connection loose. Rick
|
08-18-2014, 03:53 AM | #10 |
Gone Mad
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 8,988
|
Re: 2003 PDS quit running
If it blew, it's possible the bad connection was internal to the battery. That would cause the heat and a spark inside would cause the explosion. External sparks "can" cause an explosion, but if he was driving, that would likely blow away any hydrogen leaving the battery vent.
When you say it blew up, did it crack the case? Was a real explosion "POW", or just "spark, sizzle" of a melted battery post? As to a replacement battery, I'd look for a used one, same age, make and model. Slightly newer or older doesn't matter as much as the amp-hour rating, which is 225 on a T-105. If you replace just one battery with a new one, it will soon be in the same condition as the other three year old batteries. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Just Quit Running | Clone Engine Swaps | |||
Quit running | Gas EZGO | |||
got it running then quit | Gas EZGO | |||
quit running | Electric Club Car | |||
94 club car quit running- again | Electric Club Car |