HELP !! Installed digital meter - PDS won't run

paulss

I just installed one of scottyb's digital meters. Ordered the one for PDS with the backing plate. Moved ignition switch and F/R switch and wired meter directly to batteries. I then ran it about 1/2 mile to neighbor and back, turned off ignition and put F/R in neutral and came inside. 3 hours later my wife gets on it and - nothing. I double checked the wiring and fuse block, everything looks fine. The meter says 38.1 volts on 1 month old 2200 US Batteries. I put it in tow mode and rocked it back and forth - still nothing after putting it back in Run.

This is a 2007 PDS that was stripped down and completely gone through in 2011 - all new switches, wiring, body, 4 gauge cables. The only problem I've ever had was when it was crawling and got hot. The thermal limiter cut in and stopped it from restarting until it cooled off. This last happened 2 years ago and I definitely didn't overheat it today.

I do hear a click from around the accelerator but I don't hear the click I normally hear under the seat (solenoid?). Any things I could check for? I can't believe the meter install had anything to do with it but it's a heck of a coincidence.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Paul

BGW

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radioman

I would double check the wiring around the switches for one not connected to anything that might came loose when you were adding the meter.

paulss

Everything looks great and it drove fine for over a mile. That's what is so frustrating.

Thanks

radioman

I would try bypassing the switch next time it quit. Some times things that are on the verge of failing speed up the process when disturbed. Also you might try moving wires around the area you disturbed with switch on and listen for the solenoid energizing each time as it should when you lightly press the pedal. I wouldn't trust it to go very far until you check it out.

paulss

Sorry, I'm not being very clear.

It ran fine after I put the meter in but since I cut it off, it doesn't do anything. I checked, disconnected and reconnected all the connections and everything looked fine but it still doesn't work.

How do I bypass the switch and do you have any other thoughts?

Thanks again.

paulss

UPDATE - I pulled the plate that has the ignition switch, F&R switch and battery meter on it. I used a small screwdriver to short across the terminals on the back of the ignition switch and the solenoid clicked on the third set I tried.

Good news - the cart runs fine in forward or reverse

Bad news - the cart runs forward with or w/out the ignition switch on - in both Forward and Neutral on the F&R switch. It also runs in Reverse when the F&R switch is in reverse regardless if the ignition switch is on or off - I moved it in the barn and immediately checked all the wires under the seat and none were even warm. The controller cover was also cool. I unhooked the main Positive cable and other wires on that terminal an noticed a spark when i removed the cable (open circuit? in ignition switch?)

I'm hoping I had a bad switch and it is now fried and needs to be replaced, What do all you guys think? Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

Paul

radioman

How many wires does the key switch have? It should be a simple on off switch with two wires. If it is stuck on or shorted removing one of the wires from it should do the same as switching it off.

paulss

It has 5 terminals on the back. I have the RXT {?} front end on it with the lights on as the third position. I pulled each one loose individually and put them back on but it still had power and kept acting the same.

radioman

You got something I am not familiar with. Scottyb can help you.

paulss

Thanks for all your help.

Hopefully Scottyb will be able to figure it out.