94 DCS Rear-end Slipping

Garthhh

I bought a 94 with a lift kit, ran fine for a few weeks
hopped in, wouldn't run
found the micro-switch folded back
replaced that, checked the adjustment for the pole N hole

while I was waiting for the switch to come
I jacked up the back & checked the brakes
Noticed the castlenuts were hand tight, searched around found the spec [70+ ft #], put some never seize on the splines, tighted it up with a 1/2" impact

back end on blocks, I can hear the solenoid & wheels turn
Wheels on the ground I think I hear the motor turn

No movement in either direction

next step seems to be, drop the axle, pop the cover on the rear end
suggestions, comments, Random abuse?

BGW

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cgtech

Pull the brake drums and inspect the splines in the drum, one side probably has no splines left, only rusty metal powder.

Garthhh

nope
all 4 splines are fine
sounds like a rubber coupling between the motor & rear-end slipping
not a grinding metal on metal sounds

JohnnieB

There is no rubber coupling between motor and castle nuts on the axles. Metal to metal contact from armature shaft to brake drums.

There are 5 sets of splines.
1 & 2 - Axle to Hub (x2)
3 & 4 - Axle to differential carrier assembly. (x2)
5 - Motor shaft to differential input shaft.

The splines in the hubs are the weakest, so they are usually the first to go.
You say the two axle to hub sets of splines are good, so that leaves three more set to check and there is the possibility of a broken (sheared) axle.

Also, the some of the gears in the differential are press fit while others are pinned and the pins can be sheared, so the slippage could be withing the differential itself.

jericho

Just an observer,2 questions: do the wheels turn freely when up on stands?Did you use impact wrench on the castle nuts?

Garthhh

thanks for all the replies
it's always good to find a helpful community of enthusists/fanatics

the cart hasn't hit the top of the list quite yet
I'm guessing axle[s] are no longer engaging carrier
considering the problem appeared after tightening the axles

any suggestions on the procedure of pulling out the differential/motor assembly?

Garthhh

found the manual for the diff on a different thread
http://golftechs.us/Manuals/EZ%20GO/...s%20Manual.pdf

Garthhh

solved
correlation is not causation :D
bad pedal switch+key on=low batteries 25 volts
the big solenoid being on for 5 days will do that

scottyb

It will also kill the solenoid. Wire it correctly so that it is energized only when the pedal is down. Not when the key is on.