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Unread 01-22-2010, 10:53 PM   #91
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

Gatlin, if your still around, did you need a 1309 comm box? If you went straight from the CPU to the controller, I wonder why Curtis says the 1309 is needed? ... could be the usb to serial converter cleans the signals.

Monster, did u every get yours working?
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Unread 01-23-2010, 03:07 PM   #92
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

Quote:
Originally Posted by krusty0001 View Post
Gatlin, if your still around, did you need a 1309 comm box? If you went straight from the CPU to the controller, I wonder why Curtis says the 1309 is needed? ... could be the usb to serial converter cleans the signals.


Monster, did u every get yours working?
The 1309 is just an isolator. Meaning, that if for any reason the contoller has a fit and tires to blow the serial chips in your computer, the 1309 will pervent it

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Originally Posted by krusty0001 View Post


Monster, did u every get yours working?
Unfortunetly no not yet, the reason being is that i think i might have blown the serial interface on the controller side when i tried the ttl adaptor. Im not getting any response "back" from the controller, where in the past when i first started testing i was getting beeps and stuff back from the controller. The only setting that i forgot to try out which would have caused it to finaly work was different data speeds in the begining. but oh well..
In the spring time, ill tear the controller apart and see what chip i blew or maby a fuse on the serial side. they usualy have small I/O fuses on the things..

The reason i havent tried it on another cart is because this is the only curtis controller cart i have in my posession.

but we will get her up and runnin soon
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Unread 01-23-2010, 05:19 PM   #93
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

That sux. Sorry to hear about your controller. The comm diagram in the manual makes it look like it's CAN (TTL) ... I wish someone would post up the parameters and corresponding improvements.
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Unread 01-24-2010, 03:39 AM   #94
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

Okay, I have the software, I've made my cable, I've configured my USB-Serial adapter, so I'm basically ready to go.

But, I have no cart. My controller (Curtis 1510A-5250, 48V, 250A) is just sitting on my desk while I slowly build a custom chassis.

Don't I have to apply some voltage to the controller to access the tables and read/change the settings? And what voltage? To which pin?

Even after reading the manual for one of the 12xx line of Sepex controllers, which appear to be identical to mine, I'm unclear how to bench test.

Thanks,

Jesse.
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Unread 01-24-2010, 06:50 PM   #95
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

Okay, so the answer to my dumb question seems to be that these 48V Curtis Sepex controllers pull their power from B+, so to bench test it I need a 48V power source.

I am inclined to use a plug-in power supply, not a bank of batteries, which leads to a new question: What amperage can I get away with for powering the controller sufficiently to use the Programming Station capabilities?

The ones I see online range from 48V at 380mA to 48V at 30A. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Jesse.
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Unread 01-24-2010, 07:49 PM   #96
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

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Originally Posted by jfbrink View Post
Okay, so the answer to my dumb question seems to be that these 48V Curtis Sepex controllers pull their power from B+, so to bench test it I need a 48V power source.

I am inclined to use a plug-in power supply, not a bank of batteries, which leads to a new question: What amperage can I get away with for powering the controller sufficiently to use the Programming Station capabilities?

The ones I see online range from 48V at 380mA to 48V at 30A. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Jesse.
Speaking from my experience with the alltrax controllers, the avg logic power consumption was in the area of 150millamps so you dont need anything too powerful to boot it up. As far as the curtis goes. i think its the same, and the B+ terminal is just a high amperage power source. To actually boot the controller you need to apply voltage to the Logic+.. Check out the pinout on the (J1) 24 pin molex (depending on your controller type) and you will see what i mean.

J1-4 is your logic power. However i dont know if you need to do stuff with pin J1-2 because as far as the setup goes on an ezgo cart, even if the key is off, the logic is still on because if the cart starts rolling, it will automaticly apply regen stop brake. Thats why they have a run/tow switch that fully turns off the controllers logic.

http://curtisinst.com/index.cfm?fuse...06A)MANUAL.pdf

pg 6

what you need to do is, for example, cross reference an ezgo wiring diag to the standard curtis 24pin molex, and see where the voltages come from and go to provide logic power. as well as the grounds. Because on a real controller setup there is a large solinoid between the B+ and battery. And the controller does not get its logic power from the B+ side technically.

if thats all confusing. pg 8 of the pdf has a layout of the power setup to get it running.

Like the alltrax, you could use a bunch of 9v to get it booted up 45v should work
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Unread 01-25-2010, 01:09 AM   #97
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

Thank you, that's very helpful, particularly the information about the general neighborhood the logic current draw will be in. I also like the 9V battery idea.

I'm actually thinking now of getting a relatively high amperage industrial power supply (10A continuous or higher), because I believe that would allow me to "bench test" my entire drivetrain (without load).

This is important to me as I am doing a custom transaxle that I'd really like to sort out through the gears and whatnot before bolting it under anything.

Thanks again for the valuable information. I should have my controller powered up in a week or so and I will report back regarding the success (I hope) of the Curtis software and patch cable.

Jesse.
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Unread 01-26-2010, 01:36 PM   #98
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

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Originally Posted by jfbrink View Post
...I am doing a custom transaxle that I'd really like to sort out through the gears ...
Good deal.
Keep us posted!
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Unread 01-31-2010, 07:28 PM   #99
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

I've successfully accessed the parameter set for my Curtis 1510A-5250 using the test cable pinout and software download posted in this thread.

Also, I'm powering the controller on my desk with two 9V batteries in series. The minimum voltage to bring the controller live is around 16V; current is low.

In OEM mode, I can modify 10 parameters and monitor another 36. It's funny to see the heat sink temperature registering how cold my garage is.

The parameters I can modify are:

Speed Setting: Values 1-3
Fast Accel: Values On/Off
Pedal Up Mode: Values 0-2
Speed Cal: Values 0-10
Code A: Values 0-255
Code B: Values 0-255
Code C: Values 0-255
Slow Pedal Up: Values On/Off
KSI SRO Enable: Values On/Off
M2 Max Speed: Values 11.4-14.8

I'm somewhat disappointed in this as what I really wanted to modify was the throttle input range (which is a reversed 5K -> 0K ohms on this model). Additionally, I don't know what half of the settings I can affect are.

I am hopeful that Curtis will be willing to provide me with a manual for this controller. By the way, the Club Car 48V Regen wiring diagram does seem to fit the 1510 / 1510A, which one would assume, but several (including myself) have asked about in the past. At the very least, I've confirmed that the power in and power out leads match.

Jesse.
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Unread 02-01-2010, 09:22 PM   #100
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Default Re: Programming Curtis Controller

Hi Jfbrink,

What software are you using to view and edit these parameters? Are you using a terminal program? How do you know what you are looking at? I would like to use my iPhone to monitor my 1244 controller in-situ, but I have been using the Curtis Windows software up to this point and I do not know any of the communication details.
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