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Unread 08-14-2019, 08:08 PM   #1
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Default Curtis Controller Programming

Just picked up some Chinese golf cart. Its actually a bad *** machine...ill post pics later. Anyways I replaced all six 8v batteries as the old ones were dry as a bone and toasted. The cart goes probably 3 mph with the new batteries. Curtis controller 1266-5201. Im sure its programmed to run slow for some reason. I have never really messed with electric carts. Is there some way like pressing the brake pedal a couple times or something that would put it in a different mode? Any help would be much appreciated.
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Unread 08-14-2019, 08:52 PM   #2
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

You will need a handheld to diagnose but sounds like a bad speed sensor. Are there any leds flashing on the controller?
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Unread 08-15-2019, 07:35 AM   #3
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

yes 1,3 code. M- Fault as I've read. Previous person replaced speed sensor before and included a new one with sale so i'm leaning towards that NOT being the issue but will check later. Anything else cause 1,3 code? I can reset code by turning key off...once I hit gas pedal it then blinks 1,3 code again.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 09:37 AM   #4
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

Is it a Fairplay cart? Does the controller harness appear to be stock or is there a conversion plugged in? Fairplay at one point moved away from the controller they were using and started using Curtis. For models already out in the field they had a conversion developed. Some of these models had a thermostat switch in the motor that will slow the vehicle down when the motor gets too hot. If this isn't connected or has gone bad it will default to the lower speed. Odd part is you mention a blink code...to my knowledge 1266s don't have a status LED. You may possibly have a mislabeled controller. Or are you reading this with a handset?

You can find both user manuals for 1266 and 1266A here: http://fsip.biz/CurtisManuals.html Double check your high current cabling. You can verify the speed sensor usually by pushing the cart by hand, it may run the buzzer but will start to get harder to push after a second or two. (Roll off braking)

M- short is usually result of miswiring of the high current cabling (if its not the FETs that are bad. But if the cart moves at all, and only when you press the accelerator I'd say its not the FETs.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 12:04 PM   #5
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

Kinroad is the brand. It appears all stock and untouched except where they spliced in a new speed sensor which I have another new one extra. Controller was still factory sealed with tamper labels.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 12:09 PM   #6
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

I do NOT get any buzzer noise. Forward and reverse are actuated with electric switch on dash no levers. Initially when I press pedal it takes off good but after half second it drops back down to a lower speed...factory sticker on controller says its 1266.
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Unread 08-15-2019, 12:11 PM   #7
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

What are FETs?
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Unread 08-15-2019, 02:47 PM   #8
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayp1017 View Post
I do NOT get any buzzer noise. Forward and reverse are actuated with electric switch on dash no levers. Initially when I press pedal it takes off good but after half second it drops back down to a lower speed...factory sticker on controller says its 1266.
That's about the reaction I would expect from a bad speed sensor, or contractor welded/DNC fault. Does the buzzer work when your in reverse? You could try using a multi meter to measure the pins on the speed sensor. One pin should be 0, one 15v, and one 5V if its not plugged into the motor. The 5V pin should toggle between 0 and 5V when connected and you slowly push the cart by hand. The 15V may drop down to as low as 10V when plugged into the motor as well.

I also wouldn't be shocked if the controller was a knockoff, LOL. I've come across several Curtis controllers that were Chinese clones, they copied the label info/font, the outer casing, a close match to the PCB inside, hell they even worked with the handset. I'm not advising you to open it up but there are some telltale signs inside if its genuine or not.
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Unread 08-16-2019, 08:10 AM   #9
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

It is most likely not a fake. Curtis markings lazered on all components ect ect ect. Is it possible when the guy before me changed speed sensor he needed to recalibrate the controller or something?
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Unread 08-16-2019, 10:50 AM   #10
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Default Re: Curtis Controller Programming

okay so I switched out the speed sensor with new one. Initially it looked like it was all good and working when I plugged it and twisted all wires together. So I was going to put butt connectors on the harness instead of taping/twisting the wires...i undid one of the wires and used connector...then tested and did the same **** thing it was doing before!!!! So thought well those wires don't like butt connectors so twisted wires together like I had initially and still didnt fix issue. I found that if I repeatedly tap the black wire (0 volt wire) to the yellow wire (15 volt) it will run up to full acceleration...but I have to keep taping them together or else it will reduce speed. Im so confused to why it worked initially but then quit.
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